Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Check Engine Light With Error Codes 17748, P1340
I'm having some problems with my 05 1.8T GTI. I've had a check engine light for about 3 months and finally got a diagnostic tool (VAG V-checker). Right now I have one code 17748.P1340 Camshaft position sensor-G40/engine speed sensor -G28: incorrect allocation.
I researched a little bit and talked with some of the guys at the local VW dealership. From what I learned this could be related to (obviously) faulty camshaft position sensor and/or faulty engine speed sensor. So I've replaced both of these sensors and even cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor.
I cleared the code and after driving about 5 minutes the code came back. Also I recently had a P0300 and P0304 cylinder 4 misfire default code. So I've changed all of the ignition coils too since I heard they were recalled a while back.
Passat (B7) :: 2012, 2.5l - Diagnosed CEL With P0106 Code
Had CEL light come on with the code P0106 barometric pressure sensor.
View 2 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Code P1340 And P1347 Showed Up For Camshaft Sensors
I am slamming my head on this. I have a 2004 R32 with two codes for camshaft sensors. I noticed and replaced the timing chains because they were stretched out and a tensioner was not holding the chains. I still have these faults in the system. I also checked with my Ross-Tech and in measure block 208 and 209, third blocks that there is nothing showing. Both coming up blank.
I then brought it to the dealer and telling them that the chains were replaced for this reason. They have checked the timing to make sure it is correct and timed. They checked the wiring and they said there is a connection from the sensor to ECU. They replaced the ECU but still have the same issue. They too cannot see the blocks for 208 and 209.
They informed me today that there is a confusion of the signal wire from both of the sensors reading 11 volts on each signal wire but the voltage from the ECU is 5 volts. They asked me to cut the wire from the ECU and check the output directly from the ECU and that too is showing 11 volts with key on. Key off shows nothing. They don't know if that is correct or not.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Code P1340 - Cam / Crankshaft Sensor Out Of Sequence
So I started up my 12v VR6 the other morning and it sounded like a Subie. Threw the awful code P1340: cam/crankshaft sensor out of sequence, and took it to the shop. I'm being charged $1900 for servicing the timing chains, only. Doesn't include water pump and clutch like every other shop does. Reason for this is because in Montana, no one works on these cars. So I this is my only route. I had to choose this small euro repair shop or the VW dealer.
But, they just recently called me and told me I need to get the timing gears changed or whatever? They want to charge an additional $600 or so to do that. Are these gears a real problem? or are they just trying to F me. I mean, $1900 should make this car flawless as it is so I feel that they are attempting to rip me off even more.
Prius (Gen 1) :: Diagnosed 22 Code - AC Don't Work On Turning Fan Down
My 2003 with 150K miles has had the blinking A/C light problem for the past year or so. I ran the diagnosis, got the 22 code, so it seems the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced. If I leave the A/C on Max with the fan on at Max, the A/C works fine (for at least as long as my daily commute, about 40 mins). Once I turn the fan down or turn Max off, the lights start blinking within 5-10 minutes and the A/C doesn't work. Is this consistent with the clutch problem?
View 5 RepliesPrius (Gen 4) :: Error Code, B1423 Diagnosed
Just used Carista to switch to a single beep when reversing. Whilst I was in the app, just out of curiosity, I checked for error codes. B1423 appeared. I didn't expect to see anything as the car is brand new.
View 8 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: CEL / Red Triangle With Exclamation - Code P0093 Diagnosed
I have around 68k miles on my 2009 Prius and just got a CEL, the Red Triangle with an exclamation point, an intermittently occurring VSC light, and an intermittently occurring yellow circle with an exclamation point on the upper dash display. I also have a car shaped icon with an exclamation point on my main display (ICE?). My scan tool shows P0093 as the only code.
View 19 RepliesAvalon 2005-12 :: Error Code P0355 Diagnosed
2006 Toyota Avalon 72000 miles
Plugs and coil have been switched between Banks 1,3,5 with 2,4,6 code P0355 shows the same cylinder 5 after the switch. What's the difference between a PCM and ECU and which one do I have.
Prius (Gen 2) :: Diagnosed Code P1116, Red Triangle And Headlight Icon
I got red triangle and headlight icon on the screen. I hooked OBD and It gave me error code P1116, I checked all my front, back lights are working fine.
View 19 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: 2007 - Error Code P0ac0, P0afa Diagnosed
Car was perfectly fine. Parked it in a parking spot, turned it off for a minute, started it back up, and BAM, Master Indicator Light is illuminated(not blinking), along with check engine light. (yellow, not blinking)
Code reader gives me these two codes: P0ac0 and P0afa
Prius (2004-09) :: P3009 And Info Code 526 With Warning Lights Diagnosed
I bought an '04 prius about a month ago and it has already been at Toyota for over a week. It get's the red triangle, the yellow brake light, and the hybrid red car on the screen and says Problem! I took it to the dealer and he pulled the codes P3009 and info code 526. When you open the hood, the inverter overflow tank is boiling, so it must be overheating. I have read about the pumps going out and when the engine is cool there is turbulence in the overflow tank.
The guy I bought it from did say he had replaced the water pump recently. Toyota kept it for a week trying to replicate and couldn't, and even had the regional rep look at it.
Passat (B5) :: Car Quit On The Road, Bad Fuel Pump Diagnosed
The car quit on the road and I diagnosed a bad fuel pump. Multiple tests confirmed the pump had failed. While we were doing the diagnosis, I noticed some strange behavior when monitoring voltage to the pump. While supply voltage was present during cranking, none was applied to the pump when the key was first turned to accessory. I decided to chase one thing at a time and replaced the pump (and fuel filter, since it had been too long since last replacement and I wanted to "cover all bases").
After pump replacement, I opened the coupling in the supply line before the fuel rail to confirm proper operation. When the key was initially turned to accessory (multiple times to prime everything), there was NO fuel flow. When we then cranked it, fuel was present very quickly. After reconnecting the line, a couple of rounds of cranking got the fuel pressure up and the car started and ran perfectly. A quick VAG-COM check showed no codes. I test drove it and then shut it down. Immediately after shut down, I switched the key to accessory and the fuel pump started right up. After doing this 4-5 times with a few minutes pause in between, I pronounced the car "good" and finished up.
This morning, I jumped in, turned the key to accessory and heard......nothing. No fuel pump running for the normal 2-3 seconds. I cranked it and it took two rounds of 4-5 sec cranks for it to fire and run (normally). I assumed it needed time to build fuel pressure. I then drove it for 20 minutes, parked it for 45 minutes and when I restarted it, it took a longer than normal crank period (maybe 3 seconds) to fire and I did NOT hear the pump run in accessory position. The rest of the day was with short stops and I could always hear the pump start in accessory and the car always fired up instantly. I have the Bentley CD and analyzed the wiring harness. It looks like the fuel pump relay is only commanded to operate by the ECU - there is no external input to the relay coil I can see (ground or B+).
The bottom line is that SOMETIMES the pump is commanded to run in ignition switch accessory position and sometimes it isn't. The "isn't" always seems to be after the car has sat for a while. Is there any combination of failed sensors that would cause the ECU to NOT command the pump to run for it's few seconds in accessory position ? Obviously, the next step is the FP relay but I hate to just throw parts at the car without some sort of troubleshooting and the repeatability of the problem with sitting time leads me to believe it may be more of a relay DRIVE problem then the relay itself.
Golf IV R32 :: 2004 - CEL For 17755 / 17748 And Rattle Noise
I just purchased a 2004, knowing it had some issues and I'm trying to get to the bottom of them. The car is throwing a CEL for 17755 and 17748 (more info in my first thread here). I had APR look at the car for a pre-purchase inspection and the tech there felt sure that the issue was that both of the "cam adjusters" were failing and needed to be replaced.
After doing some research here and on Google I really couldn't find much if any information on those parts, so I started wondering if that was really the problem! After finding a TSB online related to the codes I was getting.. it would appear that, according to the VW TSB at least, my timing chain may have elongated and needs to be replaced.
However, I have seen many reports that this is unlikely because the bad timing chain issue was just a Euro thing and was supposed to be fixed before the .:R's were sold in the US.
The symptoms of the car other than the CELL are weak power in upper RPMs (but the low end seems pretty good if not fine) and some rattle noise coming from under the hood in the 1200-2200 RPM range.
This noise goes away in the upper RPM's which makes me think that the tensioner bolt could be bad (spring failure?) so it isn't working well in the low RPMs with low oil pressure.. but then the high oil pressure causes the tensioner to work ok in the upper RPMs. BUT, then why would the car be out of timing in the upper RPMs (I'm assuming poor timing is the reason the power is not there).
If it is just the bolt.. is it as simple as removing it and installing a new one in it's place? Is there a way to check to see if the bolt is bad?
Ok and one more thing! Lastly, when I was trying to hold the RPM's in that range (1200-2200) where the rattle happens, the oil pressure light kept coming on and the cluster said "STOP" the engine. Could these things be related? The oil light has never come on normally. I hope to figure this out without having to tear the engine apart.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Check Engine Light With Codes 16804 , 17511, 17748, 16524
My check engine light recently turned on but I don't know what the codes mean. The codes are:
16804
17511
17748
16524
Audi - A6 :: Engine Clank / Taping Sound And Codes P1340 And P0341
'01 Audi A6 2.7T, has 97k...I noticed the car making a loud clacking/taping sound at idle that didn't change even when car warmed up. Check engine light came on today...codes P1340 and P0341 both deal with camshaft being "out of sequence" on bank #1.
View 7 RepliesCamry :: 2005 - CEL Along With P0500 Diagnosed
My 2005 Camry check engine light came on and cruise control started acting strange. Took it to the local parts store and it gave the P0500 code. I was going to replace the speed sensor, but found two very similar sensors in the transmission. One has a slightly longer metal post extending out of it. Both are two prong connectors.
View 1 RepliesToyota :: A/C System Was Diagnosed With Freon Leaks
My Avalon 2006 A/C system was diagnosed with Freon leaks. Mechanic can not locate the leak and he feels it will be from the evaporator down the dash board. He is talking about a $1000.00 job plus one week of the car in the shop. My question is:
1) What the probabilities are that the leak is down the dash?
2) It will be a very intense labor or is anyway to make more simple job?
3) Would a dealer do a better job with the diagnose?
Prius (Gen 2) :: Warning Lights With Codes Diagnosed
A few months back, my wife (2007 Prius) was telling me that she had some stuff going on with it. I found the diagnostic test for the 12 v battery and it failed. So I replaced the 12v and everything was fine until about two weeks ago. Two weeks ago, she got a check engine light. Then she stopped the car and when she fired back up again, the light was extinguished. So, I figured no big deal. Yesterday, she went to leave and the car was lit up like a Christmas tree. So she took my truck to work and left me a note about this. She figured I would drive my garage queen Vette... but I chose to drive the Prius to see if I could figure out some things, which I did.
Here is everything that I noticed thus far:
First, I will start with lights. Brake System Warning light is on, Check engine malfunction indicator is on, Red triangle with exclamation point Master warning light is on, VSC Vehicle stability control system warning light is on. Then on the tv screen panel, the Hybrid system warning light is on. I ran down to O'Reilly's to see what codes it pulled, and this is what I have: C0200 Right VSS, C0205 Left VSS, C1259 Regenerative Malfunction, C1310 Malfunction H/V System, P1121 Coolant flow control, X2 Valve Sensor Circuit stack, P0A80 Replace Hybrid Battery Pack, P3015 Battery Block 5 Becomes Weak, P3016 Battery Block 6 becomes weak, and then a few more repeats.
What I have looked at and what I have noticed/experienced thus far; At the beginning of the day yesterday, when stopped at a light, the engine would turn on and then shut off frequently (approx every 20 seconds). A lot more than normal. As of today, the engine just stays on constantly... even after the battery indicator shows full, it stays running. The battery cooling fan stays running. Sometimes the car lacks power at start out, When slowing down, I tried selecting the "B" as I know that it would normally work as a trans brake and regenerate power, it doesn't seem to be doing that and it seems as though the tranny doesn't know exactly what to do. I checked the 12v battery again through the diagnostic and it says it was at 12.2v so that should be good. I noticed that the battery indicator will show full and then just drop down to one bar and then go back up to full and stay at full for a while. Lastly, I saw the inverter check and I did that by turning the car on (ready on) and I can see the fluid moving around and I can feel it in the tube and the fluid level is good.
It sounds to me as if the ECM/ECU may be bad. Or maybe the HV battery. I was leaning towards the ECM/ECU just because of all of the different fluctuations, but with electrical stuff, it could very well be the battery.
Prius (Gen 1) :: 2001 - Diagnosed To Brake Accumulator
I have an '01 Prius with ~80,000 miles now. I bought it with a known brake issue, however upon further diagnosis, it appears the problem is with the Brake accumulator.
View 10 Replies