Golf VI R :: Logo On Brake Clip Fading?
R logo on the brake caliper clip fading? Mine doesn't seem as "clear/clean cut like it should be, seems kind of faded....
View 15 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Rear Caliper Seized When Disengage Emergency Brake
My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
View 8 RepliesSierra :: 1989 GMC - Brake Pressure Fading / Goes Completely To The Floor
I have an '89 GMC Sierra which has the standard rear wheel anti-lock brakes offered that year and a vacuum booster. It has about 180,000 mi. on it. I have a problem with the brake pedal fading to where it goes completely to the floor. This happens whether the engine is running or not. The brake warning light is not on (but is operable), there is no air in the lines, and their are no external leaks. The resevoir has stayed at full level. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the bore looked great as did the seals, but I installed the rebuild kit anyway.
There has been no change in performance. Can this be a problem with the isolation/dump valve assembly leaking internally. I would think that would cause the warning light to come on. The i/d valve is a costly part to replace and I hate to experiment on such a solution without some confidence in the source of the problem. The GM Service Manual troublshooting indicates air or internal master cylinder leakage is the culprit, and indicates the light would come on for any i/d valve problems.
Jetta - Volkswagen :: 2005 - Fading Brake Pedal When Comes To A Stop
2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
View 10 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 1973 F100 - Color Or Color Code?
I have a 73 f100, I want to paint it the color of a 2004-2015 the factory grey, this color or was there a darker grey
View 2 RepliesChevrolet - 2500 :: 2005 - Fading Brake Pedal With Constant Pressure
MY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1997 F150 - Brake Pedal Keeps Fading
I recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
Golf IV R32 :: Fading Instrument Cluster At High Temperature
My instrument cluster is virtually nonreadable now when the outside temperature gets about 80 degrees. I assume the only way to correct this is to replace the whole cluster.
View 24 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Brake Caliper Replaced Now Won't Go Into Gear
My wife was complaining about a metallic scraping noise that was coming from the driver side front wheel. I listened to it and couldn't determine what it was or see any evidence of something loose. I took off the wheel and had a look at the components and after 160K miles, it looked like the pads could use replacing. It didn't seem like that was the root of the sound, but it looked like they needed to be done.
I got the parts for both sides and replaced the left without issue, but when I got to the right side, I found the source of the noise: a pebble between the rotor and dust shield. I continued on with the brake replacement and the caliper piston was stuck. Tried a couple of things to free it and blew out the piston.
Camry :: Brake Caliper Moved Out Of Alignment
Last Spring, my 2007 Camry Hybrid (54k miles back then, now at 62k) developed an obnoxious squeal coming out of the left rear wheel while driving at highway speeds. It takes several minutes at this speed to make the sound, so I believe wheel temperature triggers the sound. Touching the brake would temporarily silence it. After parking the car, I discovered that the left rear wheel was very warm, while the others were cool. I also saw excessive brake dust on the wheel.
I pulled the wheel to inspect. and saw that the track of the brake pad had moved a millimeter or two up the disk, so now part of the pad was over the "rusty" portion of the disk. The rusty, unworn part of the disc was thicker, so the part of the pad that was now over it was rubbing. At higher speeds, the rubbing would heat up the wheel and I'd gradually get the loud squeal.
I dismantled the pad, cleaned it, tightened the mounting brackets (via slight bending) and put it all back together. This solved the problem for 8 months. It just came back to haunt me on a recent highway trip...
It's a pain to take it all apart, especially if I am only temporarily fixing the issue. The pads still have over 85% live (including the rubbing one) and the disks look great on all wheels with no vibrations.
Lexus IS 2014+ :: How To Remove Brake Caliper
I've searched, but nothing came up. I want to remove the brake calipers (unbolt from the rotors) for cleaning and painting. I need confirmation that the fronts are just two 17mm bolts on the back of the caliper that is holding it? I tried earlier but it was right after a drive so car was hot and the bolts seemed like they were secured on tightly. I will try again this weekend. Btw. I have a 350 f sport
View 9 RepliesSebring - Chrysler :: 2005 - How To Get Brake Caliper Off
I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
View 2 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Headlights Is Like Pinkish Red Color?
So I noticed when I pulled up to my garage last night one of my headlights is like a pinkish red color. What this is? Is the hid about to go?
View 15 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Electric Parking Brake Caliper Leaking
Today, as i had my car in the repair shop for a checkup i got a horrible message. The rear caliper/hand brake motor (?) is leaking brake fluid. Replacing this is close to 1500$ (I live in Norway) So my question is: Is there any way to stop the leak without replacing the whole thing? Also, i suspect the leak is minor as the brake fluid is almost on "max". So, if it doesn't really leak a whole lot, do i really need to do anything about it? I mean, if i have to refill the fluid container every six months its much cheaper.
View 1 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Passenger Side Brake Caliper Went Bad
Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
View 2 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Changing Radio Display Color?
Question to those that have the car - is it possible to change the display colour of the radio? Can it be done via MFD?from the "white/silver" "buttons" to darker "buttons"?
View 6 RepliesCamry :: 2007 - Brake Rotor Rubbing On Caliper Bracket
I'm working on a 2007 Camry and I had the wheel bearings pressed in & out at a shop. I put everything back together but the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket. And there is no air gap between the rotor and bracket so it can spin freely without rubbing. The passenger side is fine, there is a little air gap so the rotor can move freely without rubbing. I don't understand why the driver side rotor is rubbing against the caliper? I checked everything over, the pads and rotor are the correct ones. I also took the pass side caliper bracket and installed it on the driver side and same thing, the rotor still rubs against the bracket.
View 13 RepliesLexus IS 2014+ :: Changing Brake Pads Without Unbolting The Caliper?
What is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesCamry :: Installing New Caliper - Separating Brake Hose Fitting?
I'm having a tough time separating the brass fitting, even using a 10mm wrench. I noticed it moves below the bracket, so I'm trying to hold the oval with square corner base on the hose itself, but even then, have started to round the corners on the brass nut.
I'm gonna continue with the job, leaving the old hose, and will have to come back to this later, because I'm installing a new caliper (old one froze, and I just found out why, broken lower slide).
Any trick to separating the fitting between steel brake line and rubber?
ETA, to replace the brass fitting, does it mean cutting the tube, inserting another fitting, and flaring the end? I hate to leave the old hose or a rounded nut.