Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2004 GTI VR6 24V With Codes P0016 And P0018 Now No Start
I have been driving my car with a known P0016 and P0018 codes for quite a while. I know, I know.... Car was not worth sinking a lot of money into so we decided to run it till it died. It has run great for about a year but now it finally has problems. Day before it ran great. First thing in the morning it tried to start and then stalled. It will try and start and putt, putt two or three times and die. I think it has jumped timing. Before I trash it I would like to make sure that is the problem. My question is, can I check for a jumped timing chain at home without doing a major disassembly? I don't have access to a VAGCOM. If that is what happened I will get rid of it and move on but I would like to verify that is really what happened. There is no valve clatter so I don't think it jumped enough to damage the heads.
View 6 RepliesLexus GX 2004-09 :: P0016, P0018 Diagnosed - Timing Belt Put In Backwards
My mechanic (also my Brother - certified dodge mechanic) says he might have put timing belt in backwards (as in the side that is supposed to be facing left, is facing right and vice versa). I dont want him to have to do the whole job over again unnecessarily.
I do have the codes P0016, P0018 (Camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor correlation) and of course a check engine light. Otherwise the vehicle is running great, no timing issues that I can notice.
This is a 2006 GX470 4.7L V8 2UZ-FE engine.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: ABS / ASR Light Is On - OBDII Said No Data
I bought this 01 jetta vr6 and now the abs-asr light is on. hooked up my obd II and it said no data. i have two questions first are there different scanners just for Volkswagen and the next can it be reset for testing?
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: OBDII P0300 - Random Misfires Right On Startup
2000 Jetta MKIV ... 2.0L GL
I've been dealing with random misfire codes on my Jetta (P0300, P0301-P0304). I've since replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, MAF senor, & camshaft positioning sensor but the problem still persists. The misfires occur right on start-up and don't stop which is leading me to the coil pack being bad.
Golf IV R32 :: Engine Coolant - High Input Code P0018
My cel is once again starring me in the face ... P0018 is the code I got followed by "engine coolant - high input". Where I can buy a book/chart that explains these codes. I'm assuming it is some sort of sensor gone bad but not sure exactly.
View 1 RepliesGolf V R32 :: Intermittent Signal Errors
Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
Golf/GTI VII :: SD Card(s) Not Readable - No Errors
2015 Golf TDI s model. When I try to use a SD card absolutely nothing happens. No errors, no reading, like I have put nothing in the SD card spot directly below the CD player in the glove box. On all the radio menus the SD card is dimmed as if nothing is in there. I have tried 4 different brands and sizes of SD cards, different formatting options, different files, still nothing. The iphone cable works fine, so does bluetooth and the CD player. No error codes either with VCDS. I have tried complete resets of everything but no luck.
View 9 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Cam Position Sensor / P0016 Code
I have a mk4 r32 with 110,000 miles and I'm throwing a p0016 code witch I believe is cam position sensor my timing chains and guides were changed at 90k car runs good and if I erase the code it doesn't come on right away maybe every 200-500 miles:confused could this just be a bad cam sensor there is also no oil leaking from them and they are tight.
View 14 RepliesGolf VI R :: Rough Idle - Some Random Fueling Errors
A few days ago I noticed a very rough idle first start of the day, this happened twice, then on my way to a show this morning, I lost most power for about 15 miles, boost would not go above 0hg, all the sudden on the highway,BOOM, back to normal...during all of this no engine light or CELS were displayed. Scanned the car later in the day and the only thing that showed up were some random fueling errors, cleaned the codes from the memory and so far so good all is fine!
View 18 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: 2010 - Running Rough / Timing - P0016 Code Comes On
So about six months ago I bought a used 2010 mkvi gti from a small dealer. Now here's my problem. The other day i started my car and it was a rough start. And the car ran rough. I stalled twice trying to back up. Then the car threw a light. I didnt drive it at all. Shut it off and left it. Read the code that night. P0016
Now I know the timing tensioner thing has been beaten to death. So that's my first thought. However, there was never a rattle or a noise. Nothing like that. Is it possible? All four cylinders have compression. About 210psi. I don't know if that is good or bad. Plugs are worn but look good enough. Not too much junk on them. Coil packs look "newer" and they are the "upgraded" versions. Other than the tensioner what else could cause a p0016 failt?
Golf/GTI VII :: EPC And Engine Light - Frequent Front Blinker Errors
My 2015 GTI, Gas engine, Manual Transmission ... Blinkers consistently give me an error code advising me that I need to get the front left, front right, or both blinkers checked and do a rapid flash and make them inop. Turning my car off and restarting usually clears this (almost always on the first try).
Also, the following problem has happened 3 times at varying degrees of severity when the temp has been -30F or colder. I've started my car to warm up, when I've come back to my car after 10-20 minutes I've had 2 warning lights on. One is the little yellow eng light, which my manual says is "Engine control malfunction". And the other is "EPC" which my manual says is also "Engine Control Malfunction", but also governs it to 20mph. After many restarts, or letting the vehicle sit, both lights will come off (not at the same time). 2 of the times there has been a burning rubber smell. Currently it has a battery blanket and battery pad (pad added by my husband after the first time I had the -30 issues, as the battery was low) and an oil pan heater.
Golf/GTI VII :: EPC Light Came On - No Fault Shown On OBDII Reader
My 2015 GTI SE PP 6-speed is 7 months old with only 4000 miles on it. I took her out for a drive on twisting, changing-elevation roads near my house this past Sunday when it was 100 degrees out. My AC was blowing full-force and I was driving moderately hard up a twisty hill at 35 miles an hour in 2nd gear when the EPC light came on and the power was cut noticeably, as it went into limp mode. I pulled over, shut her down and restarted. The EPC light went away, the power came back and I have had no further issues. I only have an OBD II reader, not VAGCOM, and the OBD II didn't read any fault at all.
How concerned should I be about this episode and secondly, what can I look for in case there's a reasonably simple physical issue (like a leaking hose or loose sensor plug) that I can rectify instead of taking it to the dealer (it is under warranty, but my closest dealer does not engender confidence- they treat you like you're a problem when you walk in the door)?
This is my first car with tons of electronics and I'm a little concerned that the EPC issue could get ahead of me. I'm a good wrench, but this is something the ECU is dealing with and I'm not very clear on how to proceed.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: OBDII Port Not Working- Fix?
I plugged in my basic OBDII scanner but I'm getting nothing back (the scanner works on my car so it's not the scanner). This is inline with the transmission shop where they said they couldn't connect either to my truck. But now the question is: now what? I don't think there is a fuse or such but how to troubleshoot the port.
Oh, and no, the CEL is not illuminated, just the ABS light remaining on from when my 4R100 was replaced a couple weeks ago. Can't connect to diagnose.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 3.3L V6 With Intermittent Code P0018
2007 with 3.3L at 30k miles (bought new and with regular oil changes) starting throwing p0018's intermittently. No noticeable difference in way the car drives: idle seems fairly normal (only once recently felt the idle briefly stumble at a red light), fuel consumption regular, no power problems. There has been a engine tapping sound at low speeds only heard until the engine warms up after a couple of miles (I'm in Florida, temp is regular in the 70-80's), and the sound is not evident during the start-up, only while accelerating slowly.
On occasion, with hard acceleration, the "ESC 0ff" light comes on, not affected by the ESC off switch, and stays off after one key turn.
Brought to Hyundai dealer who, same day, requested doing an oil/filter change (Firestone had done a change 900 miles/3 months prior) claiming that a wrong oil filter could cause blocked oil galleys. They did the change (and also, no charge, repaired a valve cover leak) and 6 days later called to tell me the car was fine. No mention of the car having been low on oil or evidence of sludging. Also, no mention of whether or not the filter that was replaced was the incorrect filter for the vehicle. (I called Firestone and they claim they regular work with Hyundai to ensure proper filters are used). No mention of why they kept the car for an additional 5 days after the oil change before calling either (except for repairing the valve cover leak with a rocker cover gasket), and although their invoice indicated that they drove the car 5 miles, it was evident from the invoice that the mile in/miles out were the same. I did notice that there was about 2-3 gallons of fuel consumption though when I picked the car up.
6 miles from the dealer after pickup (2 key turns) CEL returns, with same code. I have now driven the car about 100 miles in the last 20 days with the CEl going off and on 4 times now, and each time the same code. I have never had the CEL come on (or go off) while driving, only at start-up. (Longest trip has been 10 miles, top speed 50mph, so a lot of key turns). The longest the CEL has stayed off was for a 30 mile span. The tapping sound mentioned above continues too.
I'm hesitating returning to the dealer. The 10 yr warranty might be a problem for a variety of reasons, and I realise finding the fix for this code could get expensive. But I do want to know what the dealer found out doing their GDS (and via eyes on inspection) and nothing was mentioned on the invoice besides the gasket leak. I'm especially concerned about the timing chain and tensioner.
Is it acceptable to make an appointment with the service manager to find out what they ruled out (and then take that information to a regular mechanic)? Given the problem is regularly intermittent over the last 100 miles, is it still possible that something might be seriously wrong with the engine and damage might be done to the engine by driving it? When I first brought the car to the dealer, they said they couldn't do anything with it because the CEL had gone out. Fortunately, within a mile from the dealer the CEL returned and they took it in. Presently, the light is out again.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 V6 Is Throwing A CEL That Reads Code P0018
My 2002 v6 is throwing a cel that reads p0018. What the code description is? the general ob2 scanner mentions a coolant sensor issue but I did some research and i saw where it is a timing sensor for the newer hyundais.
View 4 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2007 - Got Codes P0018 / P061b / P2106?
I just bought a 2007 f250 5.4 V8. It has the codes P0018, P061b, and P2106. The truck seems to run fine but has the codes. Tried clearing but they came back. Also, there's a small howl sound in the rear end. What a solution may be.
View 14 RepliesPhaeton :: VCDS Communication Errors?
I've been using my HEX+CAN and VCDS a lot lately, and find that a lot of the time I get many communication errors. This makes some things, like looking into the measured blocks on the engine controller nearly impossible. Very close to impossible. Could barely find out that my second MAF sensor was bad (replaced, now.) Is this standard for Phaetons, or is this just me?
I am using Mac OS X 10.8.4, with Parallels Desktop 7 running Windows XP SP3 x86. It occurs with both the latest stable and beta versions of VCDS.
Saturn - Vue :: OBD Code - Car Is Giving P0016 And P0017
The car is giving me P0016 and P0017 codes. I have read up on them, and it appears 17 could point to 16 being the culprit. Regular service, oil changes when the car says it is time. Vehicle has 90k miles. This is the 4 cyl engine. So, what am I most likely looking at? One or both sensors? Basically, is there a common problem associated with this vehicle and these codes that I can begin looking at?
View 2 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Crankshaft / Cam Position Code P0016
I have a 2006 Prius with over 300k miles. I recently started getting the crankshaft/cam position code P0016. The car is driving fine, but it does burn about a quart of oil every 800 miles. It looks like a lower mileage engine can be had for about $500-600 including freight. I'm thinking my best option is probably to swap out the engine. I saw our local resident expert Wong suggested replacing the transaxle too when doing an engine replacement since it does not add any significant labor and tends to be a more common source of problems than the engine. I'm not sure how much doing that would add to the bottom line.
View 8 Replies