Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1995 - Oil Gauge Moves With RPMs
I'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: EPC Light Has Come On - Car Will Idle At 1200 RPMs Up From 800
Recently I believe i got a tank of bad gas. Was having problems starting. Finished it off filled up used injector cleaner and dry gas to clean it out a bit more. Now as I was driving the car would basically stall out but kick back in as I was driving and the EPC light would come on. I've been reading up and most answers are a bad coil pack. I pulled them all out and checked them they all look pretty good. No codes are popping up for it a coil pack. Unless I need a specific VW model computer to check. I'm gonna check the volts on the coil packs today to see as well.
The EPC light does go off after the car sits a while. It comes back after a few miles driving. After the EPC light comes on my car will idle at 1200 RPMs up from 800 when its normal.
Phaeton :: RPMs Goes To 1200 For About 30 Seconds Then Settles To 65 On Startup
On start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
View 10 RepliesAcura - Tl :: 2004 6MT Shakes Violently When RPMs Go Between 1200 And 2000
My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
Passat (B5) :: At Idle Car Surges From About 800 - 1200 Rpms / Error Codes
I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Clanging Noise At Low RPMs (1200 - 1500)
I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
Prius (2010-12) :: High Pitched Sound - RPMs Go From 1200 Up To 3400 In 10 Seconds
I was driving today and had just gotten off the highway. I was going at no more than 10MPH when I heard some high pitched sound. At first I couldn't figure out what it was and thought maybe it was some outside noise. It quickly got louder over the span of the next few seconds and then I realized it was the engine. I had the pedal barely down so was definitely in electric mode.
I quickly glanced at my Scan Gauge and actually saw the RPMs go from 1200's up to 3400 in no more than 10 seconds. I have never had the car rev this high, probably just 2400s when I'm on the highway going 70's. By this time I was getting very perplexed and worried, and had my foot completely off the gas pedal. I immediately pulled to the side of the road and parked (hit the P button). The car seemed to go into park mode fine and then over the next few seconds the RPMs went back down to 992, and I made it back to the house no problem.
Golf IV R32 :: RPMs Rise To About 1300 Then Drops To About 300 And Back Up To 1200 Steady On Cold Start
It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
View 3 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Missing Between 1200 And 2000 RPMs
I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
View 1 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Missing / Shuddering On The Highway Between 1200 - 1700 RPMs During Slow Acceleration
I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1995 F150 - Chirp And Shudder At Low RPMs / Squeal And Vibrate At Higher RPMs
Ok, I have a 95 F150 5.0. It's sat for 6 months with the engine taken apart. I just finished putting everything back together with a new alternator. Well, I pulled a bone-head move and forgot to connect the harness when I fired the truck up. Other than not charging though, it ran fine. When I connected the harness, it began to chirp and shudder at low RPMs and squeal and vibrate at higher RPMs and it over heated VERY QUICKLY.
So hot the case was too hot to touch and the pulley smoked the belt. The engine didn't even have time to get up to operating temperature. I've had the alternator replaced twice, and this last one tested good putting out 14.5 volts. The work I did on the engine was to replace the valve springs, install a direct drive timing gear, replace a spun harmonic balancer, bypass the smog pump because it froze up, new distributor, a new ECU and O2 sensor.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Vibration When Accelerate Pretty Much Any Load Above 1200 RPMs
I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Running Sluggish In 1200 - 1800 RPM Range Intermittently
I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
Passat (B5) :: RPMs Went Up To 1200 - 1500 At Traffic Light / Check Engine Light Came On?
I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 F250 - Battery Light On When Truck Is Running At Less Than About 1200 RPM
Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
Chevrolet - Corvette :: 1995 - Sputtering / Check Engine Light And Fan Coming On
I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Accord :: Sputtering And Shaking A Bit At 1500 RPMs
My 1990 Honda Accord just recently started sputtering and shaking a bit when I reach 1500 rpms, if I'm under that she's fine and if I accelerate passed that she is fine.
View 4 RepliesBmw - 330 :: 2004 - Hard To Start / Sputtering Sound And Only Idling At 200 To 500 Rpms
I have recently come across a strange problem. Only occurs after car has been turned off and sitting for 1-2 hours. Weather not affecting and sitting overnight, car starts normal and nice.
After the 1-2 hours of sitting, engine will turn over not the 2 or 3 usual times for ignition, but needing 10-12 times to finally start. Then it starts very poorly by making a sputtering sound and only idling at 200-500 rpms, instead of the usual instant 1000 rpms. This is very annoying and a few times the engine has turned over 10-12 times and didn't start at all. When a person starts the car up every 1 to 2 hours, say on a busy errand weekend, it pretty much occurs each time. When my wife uses the car just in the morning for work and at the end of the work day, it is not noticed for some reason....
Phaeton :: Engine Sputtering Between 1000 - 2000 RPMs - No Fault Codes
My V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.