Silverado :: 2000 - Brake Pedal Spongy And Has Very Little Pressure
I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
View 8 RepliesHyundai - Accent :: Multiple Misfiring - Operating Stuck On 3 Cylinders
So my 2008 accent is my daily driver. I'm nearing the 300,000 mile mark but the last 100,000 miles have been plagued with random multiple misfires. I have changed the cables, crankshaft sensor, plugs, and I've been through numerous costly coils (I keep 4 with me). All listed parts were most recently changed at the same time. Why do I misfire on nearly every commute and get stuck operating on 3 cylinders?
View 11 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Replaced Booster / Master Cylinder / All Calipers Still Spongy Brake Pedal?
I have replaced booster, master cylinder, all four callipers, and bled the brake system a number of times on my 2000 F-150 4x4. and still the pedal is wicked spongy, is there some other problem?
View 6 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Squeak When Releasing Brake Pedal
2004 Accent 1.6L 5spd
Purchased this car used with 64k miles on it. I am in the process of performing the 60k miles service items and going through typical replacement of worn parts.
I have noticed that my rear passenger brake drum assembly squeaks when I let off the brake pedal. Note that this is not noise when applying brake pressue, but after releasing the brakes. Additionally, the drum happens to be rusted very badly. It took a good amount of brute force to remove the drum in order to inspect the brake assembly. There was a lot of brake dust built up and I thought that cleaning that out would get rid of the noise.
I suspect it could be one of the springs but I cannot be for certain. The squeak does not occur when I release the parking brake.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Rear Brake Squeak On Pedal Release
The squeak is most pronounced when the brake pedal is released, but it still makes a quieter squeak when the pedal is depressed. I can't tell which side it is coming from; my guess is the middle of the rear or the left rear. I can't tell because I have to be in the car to release the brake (I guess I could tie a string around a brick and pull on it when I'm by the rear wheels). I should mention that all three of the belts are due for a change. Which part is causing the brake system squeak? The brakes work; replacing the squeaking part or parts is going to be lower on the project queue than the CD player/radio errors and replacing the belts, pulleys, etc. in the engine compartment (I've posted elsewhere on the forums about those issues).
View 5 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Brake Pedal Making Noise Like Clicking
My daughter has bought a 2003 4 door accent and on the way to work she lost most of the brakes. I could not see any fluid leaking and the level was ok. I did try pushing on the brake pedal with my hand and it was making a noise like a clicking? I was thinking it was just the brake light switch but not sure. The place she bought it from put new brakes on it when the driver side was getting really hot. I am thinking maybe air in the system? It sounded like a caliper was sticking when I test drove it but only a couple of times. You would have some brakes but you had to pump the peddle.It is in a parking lot right now but I can work on it unless it is some sort of different? I am going to try to bleed it in a little bit but was thinking I should ask around. I read that the piston could be sticking but can you just rebuild the master cylinder to fix it if that is what it is? I could pull the pedal back a little bit. I only looked at for 4 or 5 minutes kinda dark and no tools with me.
View 10 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Brake Pedal Went Down Half Way Before Engaging And Hardening
Picked up an 02 Accent with 97K for local use. The brake pedal went down half way before engaging and hardening. Front brakes were good. Rear shoes were worn and had a leaking wheel cylinder on the right side. Changed the shoes and both wheel cylinders. Bled the rear brakes with the engine off by pumping the pedal slowly and opening the bleed to make sure I got no air in. Pedal got hard just off the top and the shoes hold the brake drum tight.
Now, turn the engine on and the pedal goes all the way down before it grabs and gets hard. I was going to bleed again with the engine on to see if that makes any difference. Can't see that it's the master cylinder and the car has no abs.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Auto Door Lock Is Not Functioning Even When Press The Brake Pedal
I'm having Hyundai Accent GLS Model 2005. Since yesterday, My tail lamp and Third Brake light is still switched on even I turn off the light & I notice that my Auto door lock is not functioning even I press the Brake Pedal. I tried to disconnect the battery & the Fuse and place it back but it doesn't works. Currently, I just pull out the fuse.
View 6 RepliesGTI 337/20th Anniversary :: Clutch Replaced - No Pressure In Pedal
I just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesElantra HD (2006-10) :: Slave Cylinder Replaced But No Pressure On Pedal
I have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
View 1 RepliesHyundai - Accent :: Wheel / Gas Pedal Shake At 70 MPH With Pulsating Hum (varies With RPM)
2003 Hyundai Accent. I will try to give a good description of the issue. Wheel was shaking (or was noticeable) at about 60 mph. Lessened after that but still bad. I had my tires changed and balanced as well as an alignment. My rear right toe is still off a bit. Now, the shaking is noticeable at 68-70 mph and higher. Pedal shakes, wheel shakes. I can feel some vibration all over including the seat, gas pedal and wheel the most. Wheel not jerking, just vibrating mildly.
It is not quite as bad as before and does not happen until 68-70, 10 mph higher than before the tire change/balance. I have put my back wheels on the front and it is the exact same condition - this would remove tire and balance as the culprit (?). I also hear an audible hum.. kind of a pulsing sound at 50 mph+. This speeds up and slows down with my speed. For instance if I am going 70.. I hear it every half second, 50 mph I hear it less often. It is pretty faint, not a thump. It seems to be coming from the front but I can't pin-point it. I feel no tire play up/down/side/side.
What is the next step here? I'm going to get the rear toe fixed but this shouldn't be the cause of the pulse/wheel + pedal vibration. Vibration/sound doesn't happen when I am braking. No rubbing shield behind rotor.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Cylinders 2 And 3 Dropping / Changed Coil Packs
I have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
View 1 RepliesHyundai :: 2006 - Wheel Noise When Brake Pedal Released
Using mobile phone, Wife has an '06 Tucson. Noise like brakes squealing, but it occurs when you're NOT pressing the pedal.
The noise gets louder as the car goes faster, but the pitch of the squeal doesn't go up.
Hyundai - Elantra :: 2002 - Brake Pedal Goes To The Floor Without Much Force
Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
Hyundai - Elantra :: 2005 - Squeal When Brake Pedal Was Released
My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
View 1 RepliesHyundai - Santafe :: Brake Pedal Making Audible Click When Press Down On It
I have a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe with 152,000 miles on it. Last night, when I got in my car after work, I noticed that the brake pedal is now making an audible click when I press down on it. This has never occurred before (including on my way to work yesterday), but is still doing it today.
No lights are present on the dashboard, and I have not noticed any difference in the performance of my brakes. What could cause this, and should I be concerned?
Lights - Hyundai - Accent :: 2001 - Brake Light Came On
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent. The brake light recently came on. I never use the emergency brake so I am not sure what it may mean. I wanted to know if any one know what this could be about before I take the car in to a mechanic.
View 5 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Replaced Plugs But CEL Still On
My Hyundai w/119K has been sitting up just moving it out of the driveway for my other 2 cars every day...but I used to drive it 60 miles a day back and forth to work since I bought it ...
Have all the parts to do timing belt change new timing belt, water pump, accessory belts, new tensioner spring and new tensioner just waiting for it to cool down here in Florida to work on it ...
When I stopped driving daily it the A/C compressor stopped working needs a new compressor so I will also do that with a friend that's an auto mechanic as well as timing belt etc.
Ok now to make a long story short in the process of just moving around the driveway the lifters began making loud clicking sounds so I changed oil (synthetic 10W30) and hyundai oil filter and clicking seems to have really almost gone away...
So that's probably taken care of well the check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and today I had code read and it was a misfire so I changed out 4 spark plugs NGK BKR5E-11(6953) and took it a test drive and it no longer stumbles and drives strong and I honestly do not think the wires or coils are bad and I do not think its misfiring any longer.
CEL is still on--- will it reset itself or can I reset it (without OBD reader)
Can the battery be disconnected & will that reset CEL
Apparently my car likes to have the mileage put on it and has more problems sitting up then being run all the time!!
Electrical-wiring - Hyundai - Elantra :: 2008 - Accelerator And Brake Pedal Would Not Engage
On my daily commute in stop-and-go traffic, on a bridge, headed downhill, suddenly neither the accelerator nor the brake pedal would engage in my 2008 Elantra. Cars in front of me had sped up, then ground to a halt, and I was coasting downhill toward them, at a pace too fast for the handbrake to stop me. I couldn't downshift either (the car has automatic transmission, but shifting to low lets the engine slow you down). With nothing else to try, I shut off the ignition and then turned it on and, amazingly, all was back to normal. The dealer didn't find any trouble codes in the computer so they say the car must be OK to drive. But I don't feel safe driving the car. This might have happened and what I can do to fix it?
View 16 Replies