Ford Excursion :: High Voltage Junction Box?
Today I'm installing a UHF/VHF radio in the X and after I got the cable run through the firewall I started looking for either a) the best route to the battery or b) a junction box the PO put in of which I have many.
So as I'm poking around on the drivers side of the engine compartment I find a large bore wire that terminates into a junction block with 'caution, high voltage' printed on the cover. This is right under the area where all the other junction blocks, relays and alarm from the PO are. Unfortunately the PO used wire who's gauge is to small for my current needs.
The block in question is shown in the following photos. It can easily be seen just left of the 86 written on the side of the relay. You can see a bit of red positive cable going into the black box below the relays. My question is if this is an OEM box or something aftermarket.
Zoomed in: Large gauge wire with red entering the box
Zoomed out for reference
Ford Aerostar :: 1996 - Resistance Value Of Starter Diode?
What is the resistance value of a '96 starter diode? Basically mine is gone and the van will not start without one.
Starter relay cluster contains 3 [FOAB-14B192AA as listed on relay] [FOAZ 14N089 A part number to order from Ford] and 1 gray diode, in the frontmost slot and just plugs into two of the four slots, that looks like a big fuse.
What is the part number and where I could get this part, my dealer said it was dicontinued or tell me:
-the resistance value
-where a manual or schematic that would list the value is
-somewhere I could find this info
Or, could some with access test diode for its resistance value....
Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Battery Light On - Voltage Too High?
So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
Prius (2010-12) :: Headlights Surrounds Have Melted Sections In Front Of High And Low Beams
2010 Prius... Both of the outside clear poly carbonate headlight surrounds have melted sections in front of the high and low beams.
View 19 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - High Voltage Blanks Instrument Cluster
Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
Prius V :: Voltage On Headlight High - 14 Volts +
2014 Prius V. Voltage on headlights 14. 63 volts. This reading is from of the low beam headlights. What could be causing this problem.
View 7 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Headlamp High Voltage Going On And Off
I have a 2007 prius. The headlamp, "high voltage", is going on and off. Is there an alternative or lower cost bulb and instructions on how to replace the bulb. I've heard you have to loosen one side of the bumper?
View 2 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: 2003 - Code P3000 / High Voltage Leak
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
Phaeton :: CEL Came On - Getting Error Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage?
My CEL came on and the code said Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage. Since there are 2 sensors, and my gauge isn't reading off, about 200F constantly, I assume the bad sensor is the water pump sensor. Also, is there a diagram of the sensorny locations and the easiest way to access them to swap them out. I have already purchased the sensor and gasket, just don't want to replace the wrong one or screw something else up in the process. It appears to be an easy job.
View 7 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Long Term Storage Of High Voltage Battery
I have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?
View 3 RepliesJeep - Grandcherokee :: 1998 - P0138 Code / O2 Sensor High Voltage
I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Blower Fan Intermittent / Resistor Pack Plug Partially Melted
Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
Cadillac - Deville :: 1995 - Check Engine Soon Light Comes On / Battery Voltage High
1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
View 5 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Phone Charger Melted And Smoke Started Coming Through The Vents?
Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
Prius (2001-03) :: Warning Symbols Come On Frequently - P3000 Code / High Voltage Leak
I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
Prius (2004-09) :: Code C1241 - Auxiliary Battery Abnormally High Positive Voltage
2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
View 8 RepliesLexus SC430 :: What Is Normal Voltage When Fully Charged And Minimum Voltage To Crank Starter
After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.
I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.
What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?
Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 - Melted Air Intake Manifold Port - Code P0171 And P0174
Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
Caravan/Voyager :: 2005 Town Country - P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage
P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.