Ford :: 1999 - Melted EEC Diode / High Voltage

i just got a 1999 ford explorer with a 4.0 SOHC it runs fine except it came with a bad alternator and a melted EEC diode. So I put in a new alternator and diode, but it was putting out 15.5V and melted the new diode in two days . So I took it back and they said it was bad and gave me a new one. After i put this one in it gave me 16.5v and melted the new new diode in one day. I took this one back and they said it was fine and only putting out 15V. Is there anything else that can give me high voltage and melt a diode beside the alternator?

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: Battery Light On - Voltage Too High?

So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.

I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.

I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,

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Ford Excursion :: Code P0720 And Engine Stall / Transmission Or Stray Voltage?

Long time Ex owner. This is my second 2000, 4wd, Limited, 6.8 V-10. Just bought this one last month and after two weeks of local driving the following problem showed up:

1. Week of July 5 through 11: With vehicle cold (65*) started and placed in reverse to back out of garage. After slight movement engine stalled like a locked up torque converter or turning ignition off. CEL illuminated. Turned off ignition and restarted. Again in reverse had same stall. Third time no problem but CEL still on. Code is P0720 using "Actron Auto Scanner."

2. Erased Code P0720 (OSS circuit malfunction) and P0307 (Cyinder 7 Misfire Detected). Drove car approx 20 miles without incident. No stumbling, no vibration, no detectable misfire, shifts okay, speedometer okay.

3. Next day with vehicle cold, started to back out of garage and stalled with CEL illuminated and O/D light in shifter blinking. Recycled ignition, started and no O/D light but CEL still illuminated. Vehicle did not stall. Checked code and P0720 set.

4. Replaced OSS on tail shaft of transmission. Same stalling problem with P0720 set.

5. Replaced #7 COP w/aftermarket type to test possibility of bad COP because of earlier P0307 DTC. Same problem exists, first start of the day the vehicle will stall as soon as it starts to move in reverse.

6. Replaced rear ABS sensor. While doing so noticed the ABS sensor wire harness was rubbing the tailpipe and the split, wire conduit was partially melted. Inspected wires (2) within and both appeared okay. Safety wired the harness away from the tailpipe.

7. Let the vehicle sit awhile. Outside Air Temp 84*. Started, placed in reverse, moved a couple of feet and engine stalled and O/D light on steady. Recycled ignition and started again, backed out with no stall or warning lights. No CEL on. Drove 10 miles without incident.

8. Allowed vehicle to cool, started and attempted to back out of garage. Engine stalled, CEL illuminated and O/D light flashing, code P0720.

9. Sunday morning 12 July: 71*, Allowed vehicle to idle in P in garage for 10 minutes before trying to back out. Vehicle did not stall. CEL still on from previous day, no O/D light. Erased P0720 code. Vehicle operating normally.

10. Sunday Noon 12 July: 85*, Started, placed in reverse, backed out and no stall or CEL or O/D light.

After considerable research online at ford-trucks.com found P0720 is a common problem but not easily diagnosed. In most cases the gremlin is COPs and or deteriorated plug boots but in this situation the engine appears to run smoothly and the failure/errors only show up when the vehicle is moved in reverse gear after a cold startup. Once it stalls then restarted it runs fine.

Made a quick check of alternator for failed diode using DVM since I don't have a scanner. Checked okay for voltage and AC ripple. I do have an appointment on Wednesday with my local auto repair shop for troubleshooting. Will have them do continuity check between OSS and PCM and an AC ripple test. Does this sound like an electrical circuit problem or internal transmission problem? Want to make myself as smart as possible when I talk with the techs.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - High Voltage Blanks Instrument Cluster

Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.

Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.

Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!

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Prius V :: Voltage On Headlight High - 14 Volts +

2014 Prius V. Voltage on headlights 14. 63 volts. This reading is from of the low beam headlights. What could be causing this problem.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Headlamp High Voltage Going On And Off

I have a 2007 prius. The headlamp, "high voltage", is going on and off. Is there an alternative or lower cost bulb and instructions on how to replace the bulb. I've heard you have to loosen one side of the bumper?

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Prius (Gen 2) :: 2003 - Code P3000 / High Voltage Leak

I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.

I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.

I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.

This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.

I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.

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Phaeton :: CEL Came On - Getting Error Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage?

My CEL came on and the code said Coolant Temp Sensor High Voltage. Since there are 2 sensors, and my gauge isn't reading off, about 200F constantly, I assume the bad sensor is the water pump sensor. Also, is there a diagram of the sensorny locations and the easiest way to access them to swap them out. I have already purchased the sensor and gasket, just don't want to replace the wrong one or screw something else up in the process. It appears to be an easy job.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Long Term Storage Of High Voltage Battery

I have an opportunity to get a high voltage battery from a salvage Prius. I don't need a replacement now but thought having an extra battery would be a good idea. How long can the battery be stored? Maybe switch them out every few months to keep both charged?

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Jeep - Grandcherokee :: 1998 - P0138 Code / O2 Sensor High Voltage

I drive a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cylinder engine, with about 120,000 miles on it. I used a code scanner and pulled a P0138 code-bank 1 sensor 2 O2 sensor high voltage, if I'm correct. First of all, it looks like this sensor is after the catalytic converter, right? So I think I either have a bad 02 sensor or a bad catalytic converter. What are the consequences of driving around without fixing this? Will I see any reduction in fuel economy, or any potential long-term problems elsewhere?

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Cadillac - Deville :: 1995 - Check Engine Soon Light Comes On / Battery Voltage High

1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.

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Prius (2001-03) :: Warning Symbols Come On Frequently - P3000 Code / High Voltage Leak

I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.

I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.

I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Code C1241 - Auxiliary Battery Abnormally High Positive Voltage

2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?

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Lexus SC430 :: What Is Normal Voltage When Fully Charged And Minimum Voltage To Crank Starter

After not driving the car for over a week, the battery was dead and I discovered that I had not fully shut the trunk. I hooked up a charger/maintainer with the battery still installed in the car and it has been on for 48+ hours and it still shows as charging. I have several of the chargers and use them on other cars/motorcycles where they work as expected. I've never had one take this long to indicate charged.

I'm sure others are using maintainers and wondering if it is normal that the charger does not indicate full charge. Voltage with charger running is ~14.7 and ~13.7 unhooked. I believe it is a 4a charger.

What is normal voltage when fully charged and what is minimum voltage to crank starter?

Should have measured the voltage before hooking up the charger to know low it was......

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Caravan/Voyager :: 2005 Town Country - P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage

P0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

I have read that in 2005 chrysler changed the ohms levels for the oxygen sensors and may need to have bcm reflashed to get a new oxygen sensor to work wheither its dealer item or not, is this true if i were to buy a mopar oxygen sensor? aftermarket is out of the question being the ohm readings would require me to spend some time at the dealer. is this code a defective sensor? or could it be related to the thermostat being faulty? am not low on antifreeze and temp gauge reads normal.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Fuse 11 In Battery Junction Box Under Hood Keeps Blowing

fuse #11 in the battery junction box under hood keeps blowing, the last time I put a fuse in it blew immediately, key was off and lights off. Fuse is for parking lights, dash light and I/P(whatever that is) and switch illumination lights. I have to start following all wires to find bad spot. May just put in piece of metal and watch for smoke...

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Location Of Battery Junction Box?

Where the battery junction box is? I've been all over under the hood, and dash, and not seeing it. It's not small, since it's full of relays and fuses, and should have a large wire bundle going to it.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F350 - Central Junction Box Replacement?

I've been fighting some issues with my 05 f350 6.0 I'm pretty sure I have it narrowed down to a failed central junction box. I have no power to the pcm. I bought a used one off ebay that was supposed to fit my truck but some fuse/relay locations are different. All the plugs on the backside appear to be correct though. Do I need to get a fuse box that is the exact same part number that is currently in my truck? 2C7T-140A067-AN is the part number of the one in my truck. Or can I use the one I bought?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2008 E450 - Transmission Leaking From The Junction Of Engine

I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.

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