Chrysler - Towncountry :: Poured Power Steering Fluid Into Transmission
I poured 2 ounces of power steering fluid into an automatic transmission. What a wake up when I saw gold instead of red dumping into the funnel. I then poured 14 ounces of ATF+4 into the transmission to top it off. It's been only 8,000 miles since the transmission was flushed. Should I flush now or is the power steering fluid compatible?
View 4 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Engine Replaced / Transmission Is Dripping Fluid
I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
View 7 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Crank Position Sensor Replacement
Everything I've found on replacing the crank position sensor on my 2002 5.8l Chrysler town & country says its on the bellhousing but its not there!
View 3 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Squeaky Steering Wheel / Column When Making Turns
I have a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country base model with just over 70,000 miles.
My steering wheel/column "squeaks" when making left or right turns. The noise sounds like it is coming from inside the cabin, just behind the airbag/horn. It does not sound like a typical power steering problem. The sound is more noticeable when I make left turns and when I am driving slowly, like when I am turning the wheel of the car to get out of a parking space. The noise is definitely worse in colder weather.
I had the inner tie rods replaced three months ago, but I think the creaking sound pre-dates that work. Are there bearings or joints that might need lubrication. Something else?
Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2005 - Intermittent Brake Warning - Steady ABS Lights?
Intermittent brake warning light and steady ABS light. Master cylinder is full and parking brake is off. Had a problem last fall with ABS and found rear caliper sticking, so I replaced all rear pads, rotors and calipers. Front brakes look good and I couldn't find any loose connections on ABS sensors. Thinking possibility that master cylinder might be the problem, or maybe moisture in brake fluid, as it has been below freezing here in Wisconsin, but it hasn't gone away now that its been a bit warmer.
View 3 RepliesFord Aerostar :: Power Steering Fluid Leaking - Pump Replacement?
Proud owner here of a '96 3.0L RWD Aerostar Utility Van with about 138k miles, and leaking power steering fluid. At this point I'm replacing fluid from zero every time I have to drive it which is about once a week. I've located the leak and it seems to be coming from the pump/reservoir around the pressure hose. The hose is loose as in i can move it around a bit, but from what I've read, this is normal and the hose is supposed to be like that. I figure that at this mileage, with so much air going through the pump, all the crazy squealing and whining it does even when full, at this point it probably makes sense to replace the whole pump while I'm in there, as opposed to just doing the reservoir. Anyway, I'm planning to do this in a couple of weeks, and have some questions...
1) The pump - I've read on this forum that the best way to go on brand of the pump is Motorcraft.
2) Hoses - I'd like to replace the hoses coming out of the pump while I have this thing all taken apart, but I'm not exactly sure what parts to get. I know one is the pressure and one is the return, but there are variations of each based on the research I've done. The parts on the Napa site have different descriptions like "with switch port", "without switch port" "56in hose" "26in hose", and so on. Which ones I need, specifically the ones connecting directly to the pump? I havent been able to find anything in my research online, in Haynes, or Chiltons manuals.
3) Washers - Whether or not I replace the hoses, should I replace the washers at the connection point? Chilton's seems to recommend replacing them. Will they come with the new pump?
My local auto parts shop has the pulley remover/installer for me to rent so I've already got that squared away. I'm pretty sure I've covered all of my bases otherwise.
Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2006 - Hard Starts And Loss Of Power On Acceleration
I have a 2006 town and country with a 3.3 and 220,000 miles.
Last week I was having some hard starts and loss of power on acceleration. My check engine light flashed during one episode so I had autozone check the code and it showed a misfire. I changed out my plugs and wires and that solved my issue. It started and ran like new.
Yesterday, I was running errands and my charging light came on. I was about ten miles from home and I decided to go for it. It was night so the headlights were on. Along the way, everything started to dim. Headlights, dash lights, airbag indicator came on and then the van just died. I walked the final mile and we towed it home.
The alternator and battery were both replaced last year in November making them both one year old. AC Delco battery 660 cca and I had a very reputable alternator shop rebuild the alternator.
So before I towed the van home, I hooked up some heavy duty jumper cables from a running chevy venture and let it charge 15 minutes. After the 15 minutes it was just clicks in rapid succession.
I hooked it up to a trickle charger overnight, 12v 2 amp setting. This morning, the van started, idled fine for about five seconds and then started trying to cut out. I kept it running by giving it gas but after about twenty seconds it stalled. I tried to restart and nothing but the rapid clicks. Three more hours on the trickle charger and the same exact thing happened. It started, began to stall, quit and then wouldn't restart.
I noticed today that the power steering reservoir was leaking a decent amount of fluid down onto everything around it including the coil pack. I replaced this today and used brake cleaner to clean all the surrounding components.
After doing some internet sleuthing, I found a thread with the same problem. For this guy, he had a disconnected ground from the negative battery terminal. I chased mine down (G101) disconnected and wire brushed it all clean. Put it all back together and still the same problem.
Here is what I have discovered:
Trying to jump it from another vehicle only results in the clicks. This is true whether the jumper cables on the dead battery are on both terminals or the negative is grounded on the motor. If the battery were the problem, I should be able to jump through it. If the alternator were the problem, I should be able to start with a jump.
After charging the battery, it will start once but then die soon after. Battery with the key off will read just under 12 volts (11.9, 11.6). With the key on, it will drop to the 8's (8.6, etc.) I have not yet had the battery or alternator bench tested. I plan to start with the battery in the morning.
It seems to me that the alternator wasn't charging the battery or it wouldn't have just killed the battery as those accessories should be powered by the alternator. It shouldn't be a starter issue since it will start after being on the trickle charger.
Chrysler - Towncountry :: Wipers / Radio / Power Windows And Blower Drops Out After Startup
I have a Chrysler 2002 T & C. When the ignition is "on", everything works, but if the car starts, these accessories drop out and don't come back on for minutes at a time. The ignition switch has been replaced, but it still happens?????
View 3 RepliesJeep - Liberty :: 2008 - Power Steering Fluid Into Brake System
I had a line blow on my steering rack, and I was taking it to the garage well I decided to add some power steering fluid but instead I added it to my brake system , (yes I know it was bonehead move on my part when I do know the difference). Any ways I drove my 2008 jeep liberty about 5 miles to the garage, they are changing my rack and pinion because the initial problem, but my question is do I bite the bullet and change the master cylinder, brake lines and calipers??? I do a lot of driving on highways , and I am been getting mixed answers yes change it all and no just flush it out.
View 9 RepliesToyota - Camry :: Brake Fluid To Stop Power Steering Leak?
I had been driving around with gallons of ATF in my trunk for a year until I recently had the power steering pump changed on my 1996 Toyota Camry (which spent many winters sitting outside up in Canada), and now the leak seems worse. I brought it to my mechanic who wants $800 to change a leaky rack & pinion and a hose. But I am but a poor, unfortunate grad student and so I have no more money to put on this old, yet beloved car! So he suggested I put in a combination of ATF and brake fluid, which might slow down the leak. What say you? Will I ruin my newly acquired power steering pump or make matters worse?
View 6 RepliesCamry :: 2002 - After Adding Power Steering Fluid Into Brake Reservoir Make Quick Stop While Letting Off Gas At 40?
2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
View 2 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Power Steering Fluid Leaking Out Of The Brake Master Cylinder
I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
View 6 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 2007 - Shudders Between 40 - 42 MPH
My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Car Stalled And Won't Immediately Restart
When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
Chrysler - Towncountry :: 2001 - Calibrating The Speedometer?
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
View 5 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 2008 - Won't Start Sporadically
My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
View 3 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: Transmission Will Not Lock In Park
my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
View 1 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 2002 - Throttle Bouncing Up And Down
This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
View 5 RepliesChrysler - Towncountry :: 1999 - Won't Start Intermittently
have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start