Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Stalling / Missing Motor When Damp Outside

2005 Toyota Echo Sedan. The trouble I am having is when it is damp or raining outside, the motor run real rough, stalling or missing. This is mostly at idle or lower speeds.......BUT ....... if the weather is dry, even cold and dry it runs like a charm. I have replaced plugs in the past year and the air filter as well, it has about 150km or less than 100,00 miles on it give or take.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 - Sputtering At Acceleration At 40 Mph

I have a 2002 echo with 168K miles. My car was doing fine but I decided to change the air filter and spark plugs because I had a feeling the person I bought it from hadn't done it. All spark plugs needed to be changed (first 2 were hand loose also). I put in autolite platinum ( I believe bosch platinum were in there). All was fine until 5 days later the car started sputtering at acceleration at 40 mph. Then a few days later it would sputter at first pressing gas then again at 30mph and at 40mph. I let it go and read to clean air flow sensor but haven't yet.

About 2 weeks later it finally produced a code that cylinder 2 misfired. I noticed at that point the sputtering would only be when warmed up. I was going to put in bosch's to see if that would fix it but instead just had time to inspect plugs and coils. Nothing seemed wrong so I put them back in for now. This was Saturday.Echo ran fine until this morning. Now it is sputtering at 40mph. I assume if i let it go it will do the same thing. Can it be the spark plugs are bad and I should be using bosch's or is there another problem i should be looking at?

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Jerky Light Acceleration At Low RPM

I get jerky acceleration at low RPM (around 1200). It feels as the engine cuts off fuel for a blink of an eye and it does that 1-3 times. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. It starts after cold engine warning light turns off.

Year 2000 .... Engine 1.3 vvti .... Automatic transmission .... 140k kms ....

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Engine Rattle Under Light Acceleration?

I just got my wife a 2000 Echo with 224,000kms on the odo. Everything appears to be fine other than a mystery rattling noise under light acceleration. If I were to describe it, it sounds as if a box of rocks were to be shaken around. Or like a rattling loose chain... <------ definitely hope it's not that!

From a search, it seems like others have encountered this strange noise but have not reach what the cause is.

From what I gather, the timing chains on these motors are literally never touched and should last the life of the vehicle.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Torque Value For 2009 Oil Pan Bolts?

know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Echo Running Rough At Low Speed - Engine Light Blinks At Acceleration

My car is a standard and was working fine not indication of any troubles. Stopped and pumped $20 gas. Started to drive and car starts running rough especially at low speeds. Going up hill is brutal. Engine light flash when trying to accelerate, slow getting up to speed, shudders- not a lot of power, once up to speed engine light turn off.

Press the gas to go up hill- engine light comes back on and it begins all over, it also sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.

Is there any suggestions: fuel pump, fuel injection...spark plugs and wires? Something more serious

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2009 - Steering Wheel Jerked To Left While Doing 60-65 Mph

Why would my 2009 Yaris suddenly jerk to the left while doing 60-65 mph? It would jerk hard only once, but did it 3 times within a few minutes tonight and once earlier today.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2009 - Reset Service Light After Oil Change?

How to reset service light after a oil change ?

I have a 2009 yaris.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2007 - Check Engine Light Comes On With P0011 Code

I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:

blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault

Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.

The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Echo 2003 - Check Engine Light But No Code

Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.

Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.

But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.

Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.

I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.

Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Engine Light Came On / Code P1349

My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.

I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.

1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.

2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Fault Code P1272 - Engine Light On In Dash

For some time I have engine light on in dash. I bought OBD scan tool and I'm using OBD Auto Doctor.

I had this engine light on for some time. It come on and goes off comes on etc.

So this is the fault - P1272

I didn't find much info about this code. There are two reading about this code. Either it's something to do with fuel pump pressure or something to do with one of the cylinders.

Car Toyota Yaris 1,4D 2006

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2009 - Coolant Leak On The Top Hose Coming From Radiator

I just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Check Engine Light On / Code P0171

First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.

I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100

See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Toyota Echo - P0171 Code Thrown While Idle

I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.

The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees

The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.

I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.

The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.

O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%

O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.

The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.

I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.

The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.

I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.

I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.

The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.

Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.

My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Faulty ECT Sensor - Error Code P0125

I'm getting error P0125 on my 2001 Echo, which points to possibly a faulty ECT sensor.

Where is this sensor located? Seems like under the air box? Is replacing this part as annoying as it looks? And, are there any other possible causes for code P0125?

In case it's related, I will mention that code P0171 (mixture too lean, I believe) is present as well, and the car does hesitate upon initial acceleration when standing still. Once it's moving, it works fine.

Maybe it's time to start thinking about replacing this car... it has 216,000 miles...

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Code P0301 Came Up - Water / Coolant In Number 1 Spark Plug Well

2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 - High Idle With Warm Engine - Getting Code P0511

I have a 2003 Toyota Echo 1.5. About a year ago the cel went off and on intermittently and I got a p0511 code. For the past few months, the light has stayed on steadily except for a 2 week period when it stayed off. When the cel is on , the car idles slightly low for about a second just after start up. When the engine is warm, it idles steadily about 400 rpm above normal idle. When the cel is not on, the idle is perfect both at start up and when the engine is warm. I did take off the IAC and cleaned it, but it already looked spotless inside and seemed to operate smoothly.

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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Echo Throwing A Cylinder Misfire Code / Idle Rough

My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.

We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.

Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?

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