Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Echo 2003 - Check Engine Light But No Code
Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Toyota Echo - P0171 Code Thrown While Idle
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Started Missing - Code Check Came Back With P1315 / P0141 And P0304
The other day my 2000 Echo started missing, she would run fine until after about 5 mins. After that, it would run like it was only running on two or 3 cylinders so I took her to Auto Zone for a code check--it came back with p1315,p0141 & p0304. On the way home it really got bad! She started dying on me. Just like u turned the key off. Before coming to a complete rest I turned the key all the way off and back on and she ran for 30 seconds or so - You would have to turn her all the way off--back 2 clicks--one click back would not work and this is the way I got her back home--about 7 miles turning her on and off. I wish now I had not hooked her up to there code checker because I think it burnt something out.
View 6 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Engine Light Came On / Code P1349
My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Engine Rattle Under Light Acceleration?
I just got my wife a 2000 Echo with 224,000kms on the odo. Everything appears to be fine other than a mystery rattling noise under light acceleration. If I were to describe it, it sounds as if a box of rocks were to be shaken around. Or like a rattling loose chain... <------ definitely hope it's not that!
From a search, it seems like others have encountered this strange noise but have not reach what the cause is.
From what I gather, the timing chains on these motors are literally never touched and should last the life of the vehicle.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Toyota Echo - No Reverse Light
I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Driver Side Brake Light Is Out
It's not the bulb or the fuse, but my wife's driver's side brake light is out (only the stop light portion). Where should I look next?
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2007 - Check Engine Light Comes On With P0011 Code
I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo - Audio Static For About 10-12 Seconds Every Time Engine Turned On
For about the last 6 months or so I get a audio static for about 10-12 seconds every time I turn on the engine. Ditto after I turn off. I am using factory speakers, the head unit was replaced by previous owner. There has been no issue with the audio other than this one. I do live in an extreme weather area: +35C to -40C, but I don't think that should have anything to do with this. Is this a bad ground issue? In that case where do I find the ground cable and how to properly make the ground connection? Or is this something else?
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Echo Running Rough At Low Speed - Engine Light Blinks At Acceleration
My car is a standard and was working fine not indication of any troubles. Stopped and pumped $20 gas. Started to drive and car starts running rough especially at low speeds. Going up hill is brutal. Engine light flash when trying to accelerate, slow getting up to speed, shudders- not a lot of power, once up to speed engine light turn off.
Press the gas to go up hill- engine light comes back on and it begins all over, it also sounds like it is not running on all cylinders.
Is there any suggestions: fuel pump, fuel injection...spark plugs and wires? Something more serious
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Won't Turn Over After Battery Down
The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
View 5 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo AC Didn't Blow Cold
My 2000 Echo's A/C didn't blow cold. It turns out the low side pressure was fine, but the compressor wasn't turning. I read somewhere that the A/C compressor's clutch eventually wears down so it doesn't grab the pulley anymore, and that sometimes removing spacers can move the clutch enough to allow it to grab. I took off the bolt on the compressor pulley and the spacer fell off. I put the bolt back on, and now I'm COOL!
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Loose Power Almost (but Never) Stall
i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Will Randomly Stutter And Sometimes Die When Put Into Gear
I have a 2000 Echo with just over 200,000 kms on it. The problem I am having is that when the car is started it will idle fine but when put into gear will randomly stutter and sometimes die. After is has run for about 10 mins it won't die but still stutters quite a bit. The problem gets worse the colder it is outside. If it's above 0 deg C it won't die but still stutters. At highway speeds it almost feels like the car gets jerked backwards for a split second every time the engine stutters (misfiring?).
Spark plugs are about 1 year old. Just put in a new air filter and oil change. A friend suggested it might be some water in the tank but fuel line antifreeze and sea foam has made little improvement.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo - Heat Was Half As Warm As It Should Be
2000 Echo, I noticed the other day the heat was half as warm as it should be. The blower is still moving air the same as it always has. The upper radiator hose is hot, the lower is cold. About the same temp as the air in the 30's. The line going in to the heater core and coming out are both really warm. I thought is was the thermostat so I had it replaced to day by a local shop who does good work. The problem persists with the same symptoms. The car has yet to have the high temp light come on.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo MT Hard Shift Cold?
When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Transmission Stuck In Park
My 2000 Echo is stuck in park, my question: can my brake lights work but the release shifter stick function not. I am trying to diagnose the cause of the lock up and have heard it is probably the brake light switch, car has now exhibited electrical problem.
View 8 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Toyota Echo Drives Fine Until Warmed Up
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo - Digital Clock Starting To Fail
The digital clock in my 2000 Echo is starting to fail, and needs to be replaced. The local dealer quoted my $285 for a replacement.
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