Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Automatic Toyota Echo Speed Sensor Broke And Stuck
My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Engine Light Came On / Code P1349
My great 2001 Echo is acting up for the first time in 11yrs!.. This weekend I decided to have my mechanic change the manual transmission fluid and do a general inspection of the vehicle. He found nothing wrong. I decided that before embarking on a long trip, that I would change the oil/filter, flush the radiator and put new antifreeze, change the airfilter, replace the alternator belt, added a small bottle of Lucas complete fuel system and a new battery.
I was proud of my DIY performance except that the next day the engine light came on! I took it to AutoZone where I purchase all the supplies and battery and they came up with CODE P1349 which I researched and found out about VVT(variable valve timing) malfunction. Some of the reasons for this malfunction are: low fuel pressure due to clogged or bad injectors..... Fuel pump regulator....camshaft malfunction or ECU (engine control unit) problem.
1.This morning the light was off then ten or fifteen minutes later it went on and at the same time the iddle got much faster for about two or three minutes, (in other words the engine was running faster even when I took my foot off the accelerator) and then came back to normal.
2. Later on the light was off again followed by the same sequence of events. Then at one point later I could tell that the the engine was running fast again for a couple of minutes.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Won't Shift To Overdrive
I have a 2001 Toyota Echo with automatic trans. and it won't shift into 4th. or overdrive when it's colder out. I know they're designed to stay in 3rd. gear till it gets warmed up some for 2 or 3 miles. But this morning it was down to 6 above in northern Mn. and I took it on the hiway and drove it for 53 miles and it never did go into 4th. or overdrive. It was OK last winter even in 20 to 30 below.
View 6 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Echo 2003 - Check Engine Light But No Code
Recently changed a front pipe manifold on my Echo 2003 4doors Five spd.
Noise I was reporting ealier thread seems to have subsided somehow but I did not hit the high road again, since the repair.
But I have this check engine light that went off 3 days ago and stays on.
Tried 4 times to read the code of OBd II reader and it pulls nothing. As if everything was normal.
I changed the batteries but it acts like it does regularly and it shows like there is no code to pull out.
Could that be a Ghostly Check Engine. It is still on at the moment meaning every time I drive the car.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Airbag Light Never Comes On And Is Off All The Time
I recently noticed that the airbag light of my 2001 Echo never comes on and is off all the time.
What can be the reason? Is the fuse blown?
If the fuse is blown, shouldn't there be an alarm or warning indication? I mean, because airbag is a the main safely feature in a car, shouldn't there be a warning mechanism to simply indicate that it does not work at all?
BTW, can a battery change have caused this? I changed the battery a while ago but never noticed this issue until now.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Engine On 2001 Echo Stalled When AC Tried To Engage
Earlier today, while waiting at a red light, the engine on my 2001 Echo stalled. It has automatic transmission, so it wasn't me manhandling the clutch...
I started the engine, and as soon as the A/C tried to engage, it stalled again. I turned the A/C off, restarted the car and moved on.
When I got home I tested again, and the engine stalls when I try to turn on the A/C. If the car is moving when I push the A/C button the engine coughs and the car buckles.
It sounds like the compressor is seized. How common is this? I've never had this happen before in any car.
It's a 2001 Echo with 205,000 miles (trouble free I might add, other than consumables I never had to fix anything).
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Check Engine Light On / Code P0171
First owner, 192000 miles. Check engine light came on during last winter, I put fuel injector cleaner with gas and it went away for a while. It came back on, if i reset, I can drive for about 50 miles before it comes back on line. Also, may be two or three times a week, when moving after a stop, the vehicle stalls, i have to take the feet of the gas pedal and give gas again.
I called up the dealer asking for fuel filter and fuel injector parts prices. Fuel filter is in the gas tank and not meant to be replaced. The fuel injector I was told 4 x $155 each. For diagnostics they need $100
See attached, I was able to clean sensor 1. I could not unscrew sensor 2, the screw is rusted, plus there is no room to get a longer screw driver and turn.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Toyota Echo - P0171 Code Thrown While Idle
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo - Fuse For Instrument Panel Backlight?
01 Echo, there are two backlights (L & R) for the instrument panel, one of which isn't working even with a good bulb so I figured it might be a fuse. Which fuse would control the left side backlight?
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo - Tail Light Removal
How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Installing Temperature Gauge On 2001 Toyota Echo?
is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo - Squeaky Belt Gets Louder When Fan Engine Goes On
2001 Echo. I have a squeaky belt that gets louder when the engine fan goes on. What drives that fan and causes the noise?
View 3 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo - Where Engine Drain Plug Located
I would like to do a coolant flush so finding the engine drain plug would be nice. Where it is or if there's a pic of it somewhere?
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Sputtered While Driving Now Cranks But Will Not Restart
My parents have a 2001 echo with auto trans. my father was driving and it started sputtering and died. it will crank but wont restart. it had a code p1725 Nt revolution sensor circuit malfunction (input turbine speed sensor). i tested the wires from the ecm to the sensor and the sensor itself as per the diag tree. wiring and sensor checked ok. diag tree pointed me to the ecm. i ordered a new ecm preprogrammed and installed it and it still wont start. it isn't giving any codes now either.
View 3 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Echo Throwing A Cylinder Misfire Code / Idle Rough
My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Coupe With Excessive Vibration At Idle And When Running
My 01 Echo coupe vibrates at idle and when running. I changed all mounts, with OEM ones,,,changed the bent cross-member, installed new rack and pinion, new bushings, terminal, bushings...and still the lil guy vibrates like a rattle snake tail.
I noticed that time chain is a bit slacked... what may be the culprit for that vibration, you can feel the vibs at gas pedal, dash and steering wheel.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo - Checking Automatic Tranny Fluid
I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Radio Won't Turn On After Replacing Dead Battery?
I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Cold Start / Car Seems To Idle Rough At Stops
I've been having trouble getting my 2001 toyotoa echo to start in the cold weather and STAY Idling. All I can do to keep the car going is hold my foot on the gas until it warms up, then it stays running, low idle, but running. It starts fine the rest of the day, but that first start in the morning doesn't take. The check engine light comes on and stays on, and the car seems to idle rough at stops.
At first the Mechanic I took it to (good guys) cleaned out my throttle body (physically and chemically) and this seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks. I'm located in Toronto, Canada, and we're heading into cold weather and I just want a car that starts. It started up again recently and I'm now being told (on my second visit to the mechanic) that it's my throttle body/idle control and that this part needs to be replaced, to the tune of 627.00 + labour.