Jeep - Wrangler :: 1995 Loses Power While Driving
Jeep runs fine for days and then it will have a bad day. Loses power for a minute or two and then revs back up. If you stay on the gas it acts like it wants to stall something makes a loud banging noise under the jeep and then it takes off only to do the same thing in 2nd gear 3rd gear etc. Would o2 sensors try to shut it down? Throttle position sensor?
View 7 RepliesChevrolet - 1500 :: 1995 Silverado Loses Power When Driving Down The Street At About 30mph
I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1994 - Slower When Accelerating Cold Or Warm / Power Loss
I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
Ford - F150 :: 1995 Looses Power And Sputters When Warm
My f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
View 12 RepliesSuburban :: 2000 - Heater Blow Warm But Not Hot Air
I have a 2000 suburban with a 1500 motor and 300000 miles. Last year I replace the water pump and the thermostat. The heater would blow warm but not hot . But only when I start to drive. Yesterday I decide to change thermostat again thinking the new one from last year was faulty. Now the heater only blows cold air .
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Stuck In 3rd Gear
1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1996 - Dry Start Only When Engine Warm
My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
Honda - Accord :: Brake Pedal Loses Pressure And Slowly Sinks To The Floor In Warm Weather
I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.
This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.
Suburban :: 1995 - Temp Gauge Going High And Dropping
Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
View 14 RepliesSuburban :: 1995 K1500 4x4 - Check Engine Code 35
I have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
View 2 RepliesSuburban :: 1999 - While Driving After Engine Warm-up Misfires On Cylinder 2 Under Slight Load
1999 Suburban 5.7L Vortec
Symptoms: While driving after engine warm-up the engine misfires on cylinder 2 under slight load (basically whenever maintaining speed, and slight acceleration) between 1500-3000 rpm's. Backfires through exhaust when this is happening. Misfire counts on Cyl. 2 collect rapidly and only a few on Cyl. 1 but no P0301.
History: Purchased vehicle with a blown engine (intake gasket leaked coolant into engine and was hydro-locked) with the intention of using it to pull a boat or camper but never did buy either one. Replaced the engine with a new Goodwrench engine and rebuilt the tranny figuring I would drive it till the body rusted off of it. I honestly never felt that the truck ran as strong as it should have with a brand new engine but just attributed it to being as big as a cruise ship. A couple of years later started receiving multiple codes (don't remember what they were at this time) found the distributor very corroded inside due to the ear on the distributor being broken off.
Replaced the distributor, cap,rotor,plugs and wires and fixed it. About a year later, only in the summer I would start to receive the P0302 sometimes, would not happen in the winter. Did the usual plug swap, wire swap, checked spark to rule out ignition with no change. After a while the catalytic converter failed (big surprise with a missing engine) and replaced it as well as both O2 sensors on the rear bank and one on the front bank. P0302 did not change. Last year the fuel pump failed so I replaced it. This April I took the truck on a road trip to visit relatives, about 80 miles out it started backfiring through the exhaust whenever I got over 70 mph and the CEL would flash. Finished the trip babying it the whole way but now it does this all the time when warm.
Repair attempts:
* Distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs. (Due to distributor failure mentioned above.)
* Fuel pump and filter. (Due to pump failure mentioned above.)
* Upgraded fuel injection spider. (Because of GM bulletin regarding misfires and multiple failures found on the internet.)
* Repeated valve and fuel system cleanings. (Grasping at straws.)
* Removed rear bank cylinder head and sent to machine shop, All checked good. (After ruling out ignition and fuel figured it had to mechanical. Compression was good, cylinder leak down test was good. The problem seems to be temperature related so thought maybe the exhaust guide was mis-manufactured too tight causing it to drag when warmed up.)
* Crank sensor with a used one from a u-pull it place, I got too much money wrapped up in this. (Found a reference to this repairing a similar problem on another vehicle.)
One final note: After replacing the fuel injection spider the truck ran extremely well, this only lasted a few days and the problem came back. After replacing the crank sensor the truck again ran extremely well, but only for 1-2 days. What is the connection between the injection spider and the cranks sensor? The only other thing that I can think of that would create a misfire on one cylinder only is the PCM but that gets misdiagnosed so much that I don't want to jump to it unless all other options have been checked out.
Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Transmission Started To Slip / Slowly Idle Down While Driving
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 RepliesBonneville :: 1995 SSE Suddenly Stalls While Driving Warm / Cold
Recently, my 1995 Bonneville SSE randomly will stall. No hesitating, no surging, no rough running, just DIE. This happens while driving, stopped at traffic light, warm / cold, Whenever the mood stikes it!
It always (so far) starts right back up. So far it has not tripped a code or caused any service lights to stay on. I've cleaned the battery posts and don't know what else to do.
Toyota - Corolla :: 1995 - Misfire Around 3000 - 3500 RPM Only When Warm
Car: 1995 Corolla 1.8L automatic
Symptom: misfires around 3000-3500 RPM only when warm.
I have replaced the following:
-Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
-Ignition coil
-Fuel filter
-Poured some quality fuel system cleaner into the gas tank
The car stutters when accelerating in any gear hard enough to reach the engine speed that the misfire occurs at. It doesn't backfire, it just misses... I am confused since so many of the misfire issues I know about that are RPM specific are spark-related.
I have considered cleaning the injectors, but don't want to go through the hassle to remove and have them cleaned unless I really have to. Checking if hunch on the injectors is correct? Something else?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - After Warm Up Starts Idling - MAF?
I have a 95 4.0 EFI inside of my 83 Ranger. Once the motor warms up, it starts to have an idle issue. I have to press the gas, in order for it not to cut off. Here is a video I posted a while back. A person suggested that it could be the MAF needed to be cleaned. I did that, and it did not work.
View 9 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1995 - Washed Engine Now Car Stalls / Sputters When Warm
1995 Camry 2.2 4cyl 165,000 miles FED (not CA).
Two days ago while doing a routine oil change I noticed my kids engine compartment was real dirty as we had alot of flooding from rain a few weeks ago. I sprayed the engine with a water hose w/nozzle to clean it. At the time I didn't know any better. The car was driven without any issue briefly that day. The following morning the car was driven a distance of 25 miles without incident.
After resting 30 minutes the car was started and began to idle rough and stalled repeatedly. When I showed up to inspect the issue it had been sitting about an hour. I went for a test drive and the car ran good. About 20 minutes later iI get another call saying the car is doing it again. It was sputtering/ hesitating when I attempted to accelerate it began to stall unless I limped it along staying off the gas.
Once I got it home I started doing some research and discovered that my spraying water in the engine compartment was probably what caused the issues I was experiencing. So I began to go through the motions trying to repair. I also noticed the car ran good when cold but at operating temp it would run rough. The check engine light has not come on.
I replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor, etc... sensor, and air filter, I cleaned the throttle body port and IAC valve port with sea foam cleaner. I cleaned and tested the EGR valve & ports. Nothing has improved from my efforts.
I must of screwed something up good, since its been 2 days, it should be dry by now. I also been thinking that maybe some water got to the injectors. NOt sure if a cause, but the oil was changed right before I sprayed engine.
My course of action as of right now is.
1.Check and clean all electrical connectors
2.Replace distributor with a re-manufactured one
3.Replace upstream o2 sensor
Mercedes-benz - S-class :: 1995 - Drives Weaker And Shakes When Warm
Over the winter the car starts right up and you can actually see the STEAM from exhaust, no shake. when the weather gets warmer it drives weaker, shakes more with black smokes at times especially at low RPM ~600-700. I put the car on neutral at stop so or I press on the gas paddle a bit to get less shaking. On cylinder 1 there is always a small pool of diesel at the injector nozzle. I have also turn the idle adjustment pin 2 or 3 times so the car won't idle at 3-400rpm and shuts off when there is strain on the car. 1995 Mercedes S350D....
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 - Periodic Rough Idle When Warm / Shakes And Misses
My 95 4.0 has had a periodic idle issue for quite a while. It seems it may be getting worse. Here is when it may only happen:
Vehicle is fully warm. I shut it off for about 1 hr or so and when I restart it, it shakes and misses in idle. It will idle fine after I drive it around or if I rev the engine for a while when still parked.
This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Loses Power / Acceleration - Electrical?
So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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