Suburban :: 1999 K1500 Won't Start After Rain - Engine Fire Off But Not Stay Running
'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
Yukon :: 1999 - GMC Suburban K1500 5.7L Misfiring / Lopes At Idle / Stumbles Under Load
I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
Chevy - K1500 :: 1997 - Code P0300 Rough Idle
97 chevy k1500 with 305, engine rebuilt by shop 60k ago, last few months only drove truck 4-5 times, last time driving gave p0306, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, cleared code, now gives p0300, took intake apart removed spider, sprayed/scrubbed each injector and poppet with cleaner, but no way of cleaning the line between the injector and poppets. No change after cleaning. Also ran injector cleaner through tank. All vacuum hoses look in good order, sprayed carb cleaner around intake to check for leaks at intake/throttle body, no leaks.
Checked TPS, IAC, MAF, Coil and fuel pressure, all good except fuel pressure was 52-54 while idle, replaced fuel pump, screen filter and main filter, cleared code, rough start and rough idle still gives p0300. Checked coil with ohmmeter, between posts A & C, Chilton says 0.1 ohms, i got 0.5 ohms, went to autozone and had them check a new coil, it have 0.5 ohms......? Can drive at higher speeds and runs smooth, but idle is poor almost dies.Checked fuel pressure after pump replacement, still ~54 psi. Stumped and don't want to throw more parts at it without a proper diagnosis. Have a OBDII pocket scan tool, but can't find manual, will try to find manual and see if I can pinpoint the misfiring cylinders.
Suburban :: Code 1870 - Engine Light Turns On And Gears Start Slipping When Get On The Freeway
I can drive below 40 mph and nothing, once I hit the freeway engine light turns on and gears start slipping. I erase the code and it runs fine at first this would happen once in a while but lately its every time I get on the freeway. I cant keep driving and erasing the code, Every shop says I need to replace the transmission?
View 4 RepliesCelica :: 1995 2.2 GT Check Engine Light Comes On For A While And Then Goes Out
So my check engine light came on a while ago and the code indicated my second oxygen sensor. I replaced it and the light went out...for a while. Now it comes on for a while and then goes out. Not sure what to think.
View 1 RepliesG20 - Infiniti :: 1995 - Check Engine Light Comes On
My friend just bought (one week ago) a 1995 Infiniti G20T with 130,000 miles. The car is in great condition, except for the flecking/peeling gold paint (common problem with gold or silver paints?). When he bought it the car had a couple minor issues and had the "check engine" light on. After researching a bit, we figured that the possible issues causing the check engine light couldn't be too severe, given the car's asking price. So, he buys the car and I look up how to check the "check engine" light codes. I manage to get at the ECU and record (with the blinking red light) two codes: #34 and #105 - knock sensor and EGR + canister and control soleloid.
Good news, I told him. Both of those are relatively cheap to fix. So, I close up the ECU access and ask to borrow the car to run a couple errands. So, I go to one store, shop, get back in the car, make another stop at a store, get back in the car, make a third stop at a store and as I'm parking the car appears to start to loose power - engine seems about to stall and lights fade a bit. I rev the engine and it's fine. I (stupidly) go into the store and return to the car which now won't start. Turning the key to the crank position produces "click click click" and nothing else. Radio and lights work, but I turn off all these in case it's a low battery. Again - click click click.
Suburban :: 1995 Loses Power When Warm?
1995 Suburban loses power when its warm and backfires through the throttle body when floored..
View 6 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Stuck In 3rd Gear
1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
View 3 RepliesLexus GS 2006-11 :: Check VSC Error Code P0300 With Check Engine And Traction Light On
A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
C/K :: 1993 K1500 TBI - Engine Crankshaft
I bought a 93 k1500 that was blown up. Replace engine to find out heads are bad and knocks. Got another engine out of a 96 pickup vortec 350 with 50k on it. Before I put it in I found spun bearing on number one. Its not terribly loose or scorn but it is bad and i'm going to fix it.
If I buy the intake to adapt my tbi on top and a new 383 stroker crank and lower end bearing will this cause issues because everything else is stock in that engine?
Suburban :: 1995 - Temp Gauge Going High And Dropping
Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
View 14 RepliesDodge - Neon :: 1995 - Check Engine Light Flashing
My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
View 3 RepliesMercedes :: 1995 - Check Engine Light Came On And AC Stopped Working At Same Time
Just bought this wagon with 80000 miles. AC just stop working, fans and all. At the same time check engine light came on. Is it worth fixing or will I be facing thousands of dollars for furture repairs for this year car?
View 14 RepliesChevrolet - Corvette :: 1995 - Sputtering / Check Engine Light And Fan Coming On
I have a '95 'vette LT1 that I bought new for my 50th birthday. I only drive it about 4-500 (yes - hundred) miles a year and for the most part it sits in the garage, gets washed and waxed, and put away. 51000 original miles, the first 40000 put on in the first 1 1/2 years. I've had an ignition and fuel injection problem since I bought it. Get's fixed then some new ignition/injection problem comes back. Here's what it does now: car starts fine, runs about 30 seconds with no problem, then starts to miss, runs very rough and very rich (can smell it in the exhaust). After about 3 minutes, the engine smooths out and 2 seconds later, the "check engine" light comes on and the cooling fan starts to run. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then "check engine" light goes out, fan stops, starts to run rough, misses, gas mileage (per the dash display) goes to about 5 mpg, runs rich, etc. Then the cycle starts again with the "check engine" light and fan coming on and the car running fine. I have no clue.
View 6 RepliesC/K :: 92 K1500 Hesitation / Power Loss When Engine Warm Up
I have a 1992 k1500 5.0L. The pickup seems to run good, or at least better when it's cold and engine isn't to operating temp. But once it reaches temp it loses a noticeable amount of power, as well as has a "dead spot" in throttle response. From about 1/2 to 3/4 it's like nothing happens you push the pedal but no response. Only at about 3/4 once it down shifts then you get an increase in speed. So now back to power loss. It is bad enough that just to maintain a highway speed of 60mph it will downshift even on very small hills and on flat ground the pedal is about 3/4 of the way to the floor.
Some history: It has a rebuilt transmission in it with a 2000 rpm stall converter instead of stock(so two questions one when I re installed the kick down cable could I have adjusted it wrong and could this cause my issue, and what's the proper way to adjust? Second could the 2000 rpm stall converter cause any issues?)
It has a new distributor, cap, rotor, along with plugs and wires. I recently installed: knock sensor, map sensor, coolant temperature control sensor, tps sensor, egr valve, pcv valve, ecm, rebuilt the throttle body, as well as a few other things I'm probably forgetting.
I suspect the engine is running rich because the exhaust tail pipe has a lot of soot(it has no cat was that way when I bought it but it has way more soot than it should even with no cat.) I just checked fuel pressure and it's right at 11 to 12 psi. I haven't pulled plugs yet to confirm rich condition, but last time I changed them they were all black as coal.
C/K :: 98 K1500 - When 5.7 Engine Starts It Lags / Misses And Backfires
I have a 98 1500 4x4 with 5.7 the engine started acting like it was out of time.I replaced the gears and chain with no luck, replaced crank sensor still the same.when trying to start it , it starts to roll and then seams like the starter disengages the flywheel. When it does start it lags , misses and backfires. It is definitely flooding.I put it on my scan tool and a P1345 code is produced.(came sensor to crank sensor correlation ) What should I try next? I ordered a new distributor assembly but didn't install it yet.
View 3 RepliesCadillac - Deville :: 1995 - Check Engine Soon Light Comes On / Battery Voltage High
1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
View 5 RepliesChevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Transmission Started To Slip / Slowly Idle Down While Driving
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
View 6 RepliesHonda - Odyssey :: 1995 - Check Engine Light Started Coming On Every Time Drive On Highway
Recently the check engine light has started coming on every time I drive on the highway. At approximately the 5th mile of my ride, the light comes on but I cannot detect any symptoms, the car runs great. This rarely if ever happens when driving in the city, only on the interstate. My car is too old to be hooked up to the fancy diagnostic machine. What I should check to resolve this problem? 1995 Honda Odyssey with 279,000+.....
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