Mazda :: 2004 - Idle Bounce While Coasting After Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
Mazda - Mazda6 :: CEL Is On - Codes State That Catalytic Converter And O2 Sensor Not Ready
I just failed inspection because check engine light is on. The codes state that catalytic converter and O2 sensor are "not ready". I understand it has to do with the computer but not much else. Someone on Mazda 6 message board provided a complicated sequence of driving instructions including maintaining various speeds and RPMs for specific lengths of time which they said would reset the computer. My mechanic is at a loss. This car is a lemon and I would just like to get the inspection done so I can trade it in and get something that doesn't keep breaking.
View 6 RepliesMazda - Mazda3 :: Hard Starting After Filling Up / Error Codes P0177 And P0446
I have a 07 Mazda3 with 120k miles. I had a staring problem first time in gas station like 2 weeks ago and since then only anytime that I go to gas station. After car leave the gas station every thing is normal. Since then the check light popped on too. I have diagnosed it, it gave me two errors P0177 and P0446. I have check the gas cap, it is sturdy. Even I replaced the cap and have reset the check light. But it came back on still same errors.
As I've mentioned there is an old discussion in in your website, but it's closed. For refresh you can check it here if needed [URL] ....
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - CEL On With No Codes - Erratic Readings - EGR Valve Stuck?
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View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Poor Idle - Codes P0171 And P0301 - PCV Valve Elbow?
2001 Ranger 4-cylinder 2.5L engine, 180K miles. I have been getting PO301 for months now, on and off so it's probably not related to this one.
It started idling awfully a week ago but does not die. Some vacuum problem. I heard the PCV valve elbow is the likely problem but where it is located? A pic or a diagram would be really useful, I did a search but keep getting 4L engine and other makes/years.
It's currently throwing P0171 code. A code P0171 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty
Note: The use of "oiled" air filters may cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor
Possible cracked vacuum or PCV line/connection
Faulty or stuck open PCV valve
Failed or faulty oxygen sensor (bank 1, sensor 1)
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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Codes For Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve / Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
I have an emissions test coming up. I have 3 P codes that I'd like to eliminate before then. I don't want to "fix" the issues they are telling me about. Just make the codes go away. I know why they're there I just need to get rid of them.
What I have coming up is:
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Circuit Valve (result of EBPV delete)
P0541 Intake air heater A circuit low (result of aih delete)
P0640 Intake air heater control circuit (also result of aih delete)
What resistors I'll need and where to put them in?
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I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
Nissan - Versa :: Accidentally Put Wrong Gas In Tank
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I was changing my oil in my 2006 ford freestar 4.2 litre v6 and I had it drained and the drain bolt back in with the new filter and I relied I bought the wrong oil my van calls for 5w20 and I bought 5w30 but I had no water to get to the store to buy the correct oil so I was forced to use the 5w30 will this hurt the engine or can I just use it till my next oil change....
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I did my biggest screw up today I went to hook up a new battery and didn't notice the terminals were opposite of the old one. I hooked up one and as soon as I touched the other terminal it sparked and the horn honked. I straightened it out but now the car won't start. I checked all the fuses and found one blown. Changed it still no good. What should I check now To all who come to this thread needing the fuse how to, it is on page 2. It is also on a gen 6 Camry 2009 le.
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