Elantra GD (2013+) :: Poor Shifting - Car Hesitates Then Surges Forward
I've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - Poor Fuel Mileage?
I just bought my first diesel truck back in November. It's a 2005 F-250 with the 6.0L and the 5 spd torq-shift automatic tranny. Last weekend I drove the truck to South Carolina, about a 600 mile round trip from where I live. On the trip the truck only got 13 mpg! I wasn't towing a trailer and the truck was empty except for me and my suitcase. It's not loaded up with mods or anything, it's completely stock power wise.
I'm extremely disappointing, especially since a friend of mine has a 2006 F-250 identical to mine and he gets up to 21 mpg on his. What can be done to improve my mileage? I'm not a lead-footed driver, and the trip was done with almost all interstate and highway driving, very little driving on back roads or stop and go. If this is the best the truck will get, I'm going to sell it and buy a F-150!
Camry :: 2005 Hesitates On Acceleration
I just bought an 05 Camry with 40k miles. Runs great. Decided I'd have a tranny flush and coolant flush done. Oil was done recently. A couple hundred miles later and today I've got a noticeable hesitation when accelerating. It's not a herky jerky stutter, but a smooth, consistent like a loss of power like I'm quickly letting my foot off and back on the accelerator. Doesn't seem to do it when not in gear, just under acceleration. Checked trsnny fluid and it's ok and full.
View 9 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 V10 - Poor Throttle Response And Mileage
My friend has a F250. He was getting terrible mileage and the mechanic he took it to replaced the intake gaskets. After that the mileage went to 12 and he was happy. Now its down to 6-8, just highway. It seems to me the throttle response is terrible compared to my dad's 01 V10. And it sounds terrible. Exhaust manifolds aren't leaking that I see.
I've got AE and have hooked it up, but I'm really not very familiar with these trucks. I don't get any codes that would relate to anything. Had one trans sensor code but that was about it. Key on engine running test didn't say anything.
Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Poor Downshift In Cold - Is This Normal
Since the outside temperatures fell to teens and sometimes into single digits, I noted that my RX has developed something I do not remember from the past two winters: in the morning, the RX has poor downshift quality - when I start driving it upshifts just fine, but when I need to slow down it "feels" like the transmission wants to stay in higher gear, that is it downshifts but later than I would expect and I can feel the downshift as well. After driving for 2-3 min. the problem disappears. I always warm up my RX for at least two minutes or to the point when the tach reading is <1K rpm
I called the dealer and the SA told me that in cold weather I should warm it up "for at least 15 to 20 minutes, if you don't you may damage your transmission". When I told him that idling the engine does not warm the transmission because the insides of the transmission do not move, he replied "It's true but the pump is working and the fluid is moving."
Dodge - Caravan :: 2005 Hesitates Several Times When AC On And Stop At A Light
I have 05 Caravan, 4 cyl, 115k. Runs fine (just got back from a 2000 mile trip) that seems to have a quirk or something with the AC.
When I have the AC on and stop at a light, it feels like it hesitates several times. I almost think it'll stall (never has). I usually end up turning off the AC while we're at the light, and start it back up when I accelerate. When the AC is off, there is no hesitation. Also, If I put it in park, and we have the AC on, no problem. I rarely, if ever, have the recirculation going.
One thing of note: I usually wait until I'm out of our neighborhood and on the main street before turning it on. That means the windows are down until I turn it on. When I do, occasionally I hear a sound that best can be described as similar to the sound of loosening a tight lug nut. Still, as long as I'm driving, there is no hesitation and it cools fine.
Lexus IS 2014+ :: Poor Acceleration Performance After Driven For 30+ Minutes
Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
View 6 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: Sulfur Smell Due To Poor Exhaust Design
The sulfur smell is due to poor exhaust design. The muffler outlets are not extended far enough out to dispense exuast from under the vehicle. I will be trying pipe extensions ... 2008 LS460 38,000 Mi...
View 12 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 Hesitates To Start / Check Engine Light Flashing
This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Ford Transmission :: 2005 F250 - Trans Hesitates - If Engage Then Bang Into Gear Solid?
I have an 05 F 250 super duty with the Triton in it. When I shift either into overdrive or reverse the transmission hesitates (does not go into either gear for about 5 to 10 seconds). After that it engages and it's fine. It does not appear to be slipping or acting up regardless of temperature or speed. Sometimes it will sort of engage and than bang into gear solid. I do not have any check engine lights. Not sure if the PCM has any codes. So I'm trying to figure out if I need to have a complete rebuild or if I have a valve / solenoid body problem Where do I start?
View 4 RepliesCamry :: 2004 V6 - Poor Idle After Throttle Body Cleaning
2002 V6 Camry 145,000 miles, cleaned throttle body with TBC fluid, now starts runs for a few seconds and dies. In order to open the butterfly in cleaning I turned ign on and propped pedal down. After cleaning the car ran better but idle was high and a little erratic. I disconnected the neg batt for several hours, now it starts, but dies right away. In the cleaning process I had removed the throttle control sensor an reinstalled it. Can't keep it running long enough to adjust it.
View 8 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Engine Straining / Lost Power And Poor MPG
Basically, about 3 weeks ago I noticed some problems with my 04 Prius. It has 72k miles on the clock. The exhaust was making a farting sound. I have since diagnosed this as a hole in the back box which I promptly replaced. But the real problem is the power.
When driving in electric mode, the car runs as normal. But when I press down on the gas just a little more to the point where the ICE kicks in, it doesn't give as much power as it used to. For example, in electric mode, cruising at 30mph and achieving 99.9mpg, I'd press the pedal down about half an inch. Where this used to kick the ICE in and show 60mpg+ (with the engine charging the battery and providing power to the wheels), it now shows about 30mpg. When I press the pedal a further half inch, it would normally show 35-45mpg, but now reads 16-25mpg. And when its fully depressed, it used to show 12-16mpg but now barely hits double figures and averages about 6.7mpg. Even on highways when I've achieved 60mph and gently ease off the pedal to maintain speed or really slowly increase, I used to achieve 60-70mpg but now I'd be lucky if it makes it to 40.
I also noticed that it produces considerably less pulling power than it used to. Almost as if the engine is really struggling, even when gently pressing the pedal and accelerating from 30mph upwards. This is having a large effect on my overall fuel consumption. I get so scared that I'm wasting too much fuel that I drive really conservatively now.
Prius (2004-09) :: Poor Fuel Fills And Bladder Burping
New thread so this info can actually be found. Like most of you, I was irritated and embarrassed the first time I tried to top off my tank at a busy station, then had a quart of fuel pour back out onto the ground before I could get the cap back on. I did a simple fix that worked forever after. I always get a full fill, never have fuel burp.
View 1 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Misfire / Poor Acceleration
2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Engine Hesitation After Driving For 15 - 20 Minutes And Poor MPG
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
Nissan - Frontier :: 2004 - Poor AC Cooling And Buzzing From Glove Box Area
'04 frontier 6cyl, 90k miles. My AC recently started cooling poorly, although still slightly cold, especially at higher rpms. At the same time, I noticed a buzzing noise that changes pitch with rpms and only occurs with ac on. I can hear it loudest from the glove box area, and can't really hear it under the hood. The compressor clutch works fine. With the car off, I can spin the compressor and it feels fine, no noise. With ac on, the low pressure tube gets cold. I hope it's not a bad compressor.
View 9 RepliesLexus GS 2006-11 :: VSC / Check Engine And Trac Light On - Car Hesitates To Go Over 25 Mph
2006 gs 300. Been driving car around and the 3 lights came on which are vsc, Trac and check engine light all at the same time. Replaced the 2 front O2 sensors but the light keeps coming on and off. When I drive the car the car hesitates to go over 25 mph.
View 14 RepliesLexus SC430 :: Hesitates / Throttle Down-blip / Lurches And Then Cuts Out
Issue on my wife's 2002 SC430. Recently ran into the well-documented disappearing acceleration caused by one of the trifecta of sensors on the throttle (TPS, APPS, and Throttle motor). Replaced the throttle position sensor and seemed to resolve issue. As of about a week ago, however, the car has developed a hiccup that I can't diagnose. Here's what I've recorded and done so far:
Symptoms:
-Hesitation at 1800 or 2300(?) RPM under light throttle and increasing load (often on uphills).
-Throttle down-blip of 100-200 rpm momentarily, only lasts ~1 sec
-Noticable lurch to vehicle, slows down slightly, results in 0.08G accelerometer reading when kicks back in.
-Change in engine exhaust sound as if in C-gate gears on a downhill (sounds like engine braking).
-Sometimes happens repeatedly in quick succession - up to 8 times in 10 seconds.
-Not speed dependent
-Overall performance is fine, not sluggish or hesitating when you stomp on it.
-Intermittant issue, not replicable, happens at random.
-No error codes thrown, no CEL, no DSP lights.
-Consistent -14.7psi vacuum registering on OBDII
Actions taken:
-Recently replaced and tuned throttle position sensor
-Seafoam on a nearly empty tank for 3 mi, half-full tank for 40mi
-Italian tune-up
-Disassembled and cleaned MAF
-Cleaned air filter (K&N)
-Reset computer (battery grounded for 10 min)
So... the question is, what the heck is this? Here are a few thoughts of what to do next in order of easiest/most likely/least expensive:
-Remove ABS relay and check performance (maybe TCS is hitting brakes a little?)
-Check all vacuum lines
-Seafoam cleaning through vacuum lines
-Remove, disassemble and clean TB assembly
-Test continuity on throttle body motor
-Test continuity on VVT solenoids
-Test continuity on full range of APP Sensor
-Replace VVT filters
-Replace VVT solenoids
-Check spark plug torque?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 - Poor Acceleration When Engine Is At Operating Temp
I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
View 5 Replies