Subaru - Xv-crosstrek :: 2014 Hybrid Engine - Acceleration Is Poor And Inconsistent
At the beginning of this year I purchased the 2014 XV Crosstrek Hybrid. I have been trying to love it for 7 months now, and am failing. The way the hybrid engine functions creates a very jolting, inconsistent, and frustrating driving experience:
The acceleration is poor and inconsistent ... it never seems to know what gear it should be in. So much so that there have been times I have felt unsafe moving into traffic (and I am not one to push a car or "jump out" into traffic; friends who have driven it also have the same experience).
The start/stop of the engine when it goes to/from electric creates a resounding shudder that shakes the entire car every time it happens (and it happens ALOT).
The engine is like a PC instead of a MAC ... it's always doing something and you never know what it's up to.
When you use the defrost or the A/C it makes all these matters that much worse.
I'm very disappointed that Subaru would put a car that functions like this on the market. I'm a long time fan of Subaru's (I still drive my 1992 Legacy wagon manual transmission, which, quite honestly, drives a whole lot better than this new hybrid). And I counted on Subaru when, after 22 years, I went looking for a new car. This is not a vehicle that Subaru should have on the road. I get so many people asking me about it because I got it in the Plasma green and it is beautiful. And I give them the honest truth about it's performance; I have NOT sold at least 5 cars for Subaru.
I looked at so many cars from so many other makers, and this was the only one I truly wanted. It seemed to have everything and I trusted that Subaru's engine would be fabulous as always. Make it run smoothly, accelerate well in a trustworthy manner, not have such a jolting engine experience. You've got it on all other counts with this car ... just not the engine, and all the other factors do not make up for poor engine performance.
Accent RB (2012+) :: Poor Performance Under Load
This is a accent 2015 Sr poor performance under load and when I have passengers. This car is 1 month old. 1.6 lt.
View 4 RepliesToyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Poor Performance When Load Placed On Engine
I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rough Idle And Poor Performance - Code P0401
97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - HHR :: 2006 - Won't Start Up After Being Driven For 20 To 30 Minutes
This issue has been stumping the mechanics. My wife's HHR has 113,000 miles on it and has been trouble free up to now. The last two months it will suddenly not want to start after being driven for 20 - 30 minutes and then sitting for an hour to 75 minutes. It turns over but won't start. Even more strange if you then wait for a full hour it will start right up. Mechanics are stumped as they cannot duplicate the problem.
View 3 RepliesTaurus :: 2000 Ford - Heavy Jerking After Being Driven For About 5 Minutes
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
View 14 RepliesHonda - Cr-v :: 2010 - TPMS Light Coming On Every Time Car Driven For 30 Minutes On Highway
We own a 2010 Honda CRV and at 25,000 miles the TPMS light started coming on every time the car was driven for thirty minutes on the highway. It has been to the dealership four times now and it is still not fixed. They first relearned the system and then they replaced the component that the sensors communicate with and the light continued to come on every time. They then replaced all four sensors as well as the radio. The light still came on again after thirty minutes into a long drive at high speed. The air conditioner panel was swapped with another and problem still not solved. They replaced two more brand new sensors on rear tires for new ones because the rear tires still showed faulty sensors.
For some reason they decided to take the tires off and replace with tires from another CRV they had on their lot which had alloy wheels and not steel and they test drove it and claimed the TPMS light did not come on. This was a waste of time because they just put the original tires back on anyway. Every time the car was taken in they claimed they fixed it and test drove it to make sure. After four visits to the dealership and the last time they had it for over a week, the car is not fixed and the TPMS light still comes on.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Engine Hesitation After Driving For 15 - 20 Minutes And Poor MPG
I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Vibration On Acceleration Or Under Load After 20 Miles Driven
Info: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
Celica :: ST182 - Poor Acceleration And Bad Throttle Response
Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).
Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Revving With Poor Acceleration With New Clutch
I have just changed my clutch and machined my flywheel on my 1.5ltr 16v dohc 2000 lc accent. I used all the correct trans fluid and refilled and bled the clutch fluid. It takes of from lights like a new car but if you put your foot down around 40kph it revs out a bit and does so through all gears untill you reach a bit of speed. What is going on?
View 11 RepliesBuick - Parkavenue :: 1994 - Poor Acceleration - Shakes?
i have a 1994 buick park avenue non supercharge. I replaced the harmonic balancer because it was split all the way around. ok then i start having low fuel pressure. it was at at 22psi so i got the fuel pump, strainer and filter replaced i also notice my cat was turning red. I also got the cat replaced and part of the new one is starting to turn red. I am experiencing poor acceleration ...my car shakes but shakes more when im in drive and foot on the brake..i can tell the difference in the acceleration from when i put the new cat on..it picked up a little bit but its not how its suppose to be. I also notice two of my coil packs have a slight crack across the top by the numbers....
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: New Transmission - Poor Acceleration
So I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
View 13 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Check Engine And ESC Lights - Poor Acceleration
Check engine light came on momentarily, car had poor acceleration. Light went out and ESC light came on. When the car was turned off and restarted, the ESC light went out.
I scanned the engine, no codes, either open, pending or historical.
Question, could the issues with the two lights be related? Or is there anything else I should check?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 GLS - Slow Acceleration And Poor Mileage
2007 Sonata GLS - I4; 55kmiles ... I plan to sea foam on my Sonata as it continues to have slow acceleration and poor mileage. Looking for a picture of the Brake Booster or Vacuum line? I want to make sure I am pouring it in the right place.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Pickup :: 1992 - Poor Acceleration Until RPM Increases In Cold?
In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
View 14 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Misfire / Poor Acceleration
2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
Passat (B6) :: 2008 - Auto Shifts From Into Or Out Of Park With Loud Bang - Poor Acceleration
2008 Passat 2.0T auto, started occasionally shifting with a loud bang into and out of park, and from forward into reverse and reverse into forward. No MIL, pending transmission communications error code. Would accelerate very poorly up until about 30mph and then accelerate normally. Shutting the car off and then restarting would usually clear up the symptoms. Started happening about once a week over a 3 week period, and then started happening about about every other day. With it happening more often, had an opportunity to experiment a little, and by shifting into sport mode (which causes the MFD to display the gear that the transmission is in) noticed that the car was not shifting into 1st to 3rd gear, but starting off in 4th. With that and the rough shifts in and out of park, I thought that it was probably transmission related,
With a tranny being $$$$ and the battery being 4 years old, and relatively cheap to replace, I decided to play the long shot and see if a possibly weak battery was causing an electrical problem in the transmission. The battery checked out OK at a couple of places, but decided to give it a shot and replace it anyway.
Installed the new battery (Bosch from Pep Boys $109) and had every warning light on the dash go on with the first restart, along with a return of the harsh shift out of park problem. Shut the car off, turned it back on, drove five miles, all the warning lights went out, and no return of the transmission problem after 5+ months and 10K miles.
Just a heads up - if your battery is 4+ years old, and you are getting any odd problems that could in any way possibly be related to the electrical system - which includes just about every system on our cars - consider going for a new battery. Worked for me.
Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 GS - Misfire On 3 Cylinders / Rough Idle And Poor Acceleration
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
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