Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - IMCR Vacuum Lines - Where Hoses Go Off
Looking for a pic of where the 2 vacuum lines go off the IMCR on a 2002 ranger 2.3. Changed engines now not sure where these hoses go.
View 2 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1997 - Vacuum Lines Coming Close To Hitting Serpentine Belt On The Front Of Engine
Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Runs Rough - Driver Side Exhaust Manifold Cold / Passenger Side Hot?
1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Won't Disengage Out Of 3 Gear?
I have a 1998 ford ranger and it will not disengage out of 3 gear. The truck still starts but if you let of the cutch. Of course, It stalls. I'm doing the work myself but where I should start looking.
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Would Not Disengage At Any Time
This morning, I shifted into neutral and left the truck running. When I got in it put it in reverse, the shifter peddle went all the way to the floor and the clutch did not engage. I turned off the engine, and the transmission shifted easily. I put it into reverse, started the engine, and when I tried to shift back into first, the same thing happened. Pedal to the floor with no resistance, and I could not get it into gear. I finally forced it into 1st to get back into the driveway, but had to stall the engine to keep from going through the garage door. The clutch would not disengage at any time. I checked the master cylinder and it is 1/2 full. Has my clutch gone out?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1989 - Disengage Electronic Shift?
I recently acquired a 1989 Ford Ranger midsize pickup with an electronic shift button/console between the visors. I put it in 4WD and the manual does not indicate the procedure to take it out of 4WD. What is the procedure?
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Driver Side Headlight Go Out
I've got an 08' Ranger FX4. Recently I had the drivers-side headlight go out. Today I replaced the light, and while I was there, I decided to check every bulb on the truck. Everything else works, but I noticed the 2 factory "foglights" will not come on. This is a fairly recent development, because I use those lights quite often.
Even thought they don't cast a huge amount of light, here in the Vancouver area, winters are dark & rainy, so I think 4 points of light as opposed to 2 points is a benefit. To activate those lights, you pull on the headlight selector switch. Do those lights have their own dedicated circuit with fuse? Or does this sound like a switch problem?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1993 - Cruise Will Not Disengage With Brake Pedal
1993 Ranger XLT 4.0 AT. Initially replaced ECM for other problems and then noticed Cruise w/n disengage when brake depressed unless pedal is pushed several times and with more pressure. Put in another ECM and have same problem. Have replaced the brake switch and lights come on as they should. When pedal is pushed the vacuum dump valve on the pedal will dump the vacuum to the servo but when you release the brake pedal the cruise control kicks back in and speeds truck back to set speed.
So this tells me that the dump valve is only a fail-safe feature for when pedal is depressed and does not actually deactivate the servo. Everything else with the cruise works fine: On/Off switch, Set/Accelerate, Resume, Coast. How to proceed next? Like where to find speed control module and how to test it? How to check servo to see if it is getting or dropping voltage that will electrically disengage it, etc? Don't want just throw parts at it. The new ECU's that I used came from ECU Exchange in Florida and there still remains the possibility that they are still the problem.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Grinds After Starting / Starter Won't Disengage
Its and 03 ranger with a 4.0 auto and it grinds after starting and it doesn't always start smoothly, like it hops around till it finally starts, kind of like the starter wont disengage. Do I start with a new starter or is more than likely a flexplate issue? I hope its just a starter.
YouTube video : 2012-02-16_15-35-45_211 - YouTube
2nd problem is it hesitates a second or so before it goes into gear and clicks in hard, kind of like when you are low on oil, but its not low on oil. It also shifts hard. When I got it the column bolts were loose so the shifter was floppy, I am wondering is someone tried to fix it the wrong way. Also now its pretty stiff to move the shifter selector.
Also what tranny is in it, it may be some sort of heavy duty unit, it was an x electrical municipality vehicle, it appears to have an 8.8 and heavy duty rear springs. Door tag reads axle rd, tr D, and spr 2c...
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - Oil Leaking Somewhere On Driver Side
I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Burning Oil / Coolant In Cylinder 3 On Driver Side
I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1990 V6 3 Cylinders On Driver Side Not Firing
Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Hub Spins On Driver Side But Tire Won't Engage
1987 ford ranger loaned it out and they said the hub spins on the driver side but the tire won't engage so it has no 4 wheel drive. Soon as I get it back hopefully today will know more.
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 XLT - Front Driver Side Spindle
I'm normally in the bullnose section, but recently started working on my father-in-law's 96 ford ranger. He wanted me to replace the front rotors.
I replaced the passenger side without a hitch, but when I went to replace the driver's side, I noticed the cotter pin and castle nut were missing. A nail was in the cotter pin's place. I backed off the spindle nut and found that the threads were eaten up, as was most of the spindle with various gouges and nicks.
1996 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 ......
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Rusted Rear Brake Lines
I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Shifting Hard / Clutch Won't Disengage At All After Master Cylinder Replaced
My Ranger had been shifting hard for quite awhile. I recently opted to go ahead and replace the clutch, throwout bearing, had the flywheel turned and replaced the pressure plate.
This just seemed to make the problem slightly worse. I thought it was possible that my master cylinder needed to be replaced (the slave was replaced two years ago and didn't appear to be leaking when I had the tranny off). I replaced the master cylinder and now the clutch won't disengage at all. I've spent several days trying different things to bleed the clutch, and I just can't get it to bleed. I took it back off and bench bled it, then put it back on and bled through the whole system. This isn't working. I've tried numerous suggestions-jacking up the back end of the truck, jacking up the drivers side of the truck, I even bought a vaccuum bleeder and used it for 2 hours just having an assistant fill up the reservoir while I sucked fluid out the bleeder valve. The best I could ever get was some resistance on the pedal, but not enough to push the disc away from the flywheel.
I took the pickup to Ford, they said they bled it and charged me 90 bucks and still couldn't get the clutch to release
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - In Every Few Seconds Chirping Noise On Driver Side?
I am a new owner of my first truck and it is a 2003 Ford Ranger 3.0L Extended Edge with 138,000 miles on it. I keep getting a chirping noise coming from driver side of truck. It only happens when I have the AC on. I can turn AC to just air and the chirping stops. This only happens when I am driving. If I have my truck parked in drive with the hood up, I go and turn on AC full blast and I hear no chirping. I can see AC compressor turn on a few seconds after I start the truck and it is not cycling on or off every few seconds as some people I have asked told me it should do. AC air is ice cold so I should have enough freon. Now this chirping is not constant like a machine gun going off but just about every 5 seconds or so it would chirp. I have heard of bad camshaft sensors causing chirping but would that happen every few seconds and only when you are driving down the road with the AC on? Now I have noticed when truck has sat for a long time I get belt squeal for a few seconds and it then goes away. I think the squeal goes away when AC compressor starts because I observed this when looking for this random chirp. Any clues?
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Start To Engage / Disengage At Half Way Point On The Pedal Travel?
So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Constant Thud Coming From Front Driver Side While Driving
When driving down the road, there is a constant "thud thud thud" coming from the front driver's side of my 99 Ranger. I've been looking online for about two hours now, going back and forth to my truck to see if I can figure out the problem. All I've come up with is that it's the sway bar links. they're both disconnected, and I'm going to replace them anyway, but would that cause the constant thudding?
View 3 Replies