Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Oil Build Up Under The Front End / Tranny Leaking?
2003 ranger 4.0 5 speed .... Pretty new to the car/truck world only 18 and this is my first truck, I traded my focus for it and so far so good. Its my first manual but i got to tinkering and i noticed some oil build up under the front end so i got to looking and found this, wondering if its an issue, should I try to fix whatever is causing it or take it to a mechanic. Looks like between tranny and engine to me.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1999 - Torque Value On Head Bolts
I am missing my manual need to know the torque value on the head bolts 1999 ranger 3.0 flex.....
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Higher RPMs Like Engine Is Missing - Loss Of Power
2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - No Fuel Pressure With The Power On And Engine Not Running
I have a 2002 Ranger with a 3.0/auto with about 180K on it. It runs good but for the past 6 months I have had a problem starting it. It does the same thing hot or cold but is a LITTLE easier when cold. It is very hard to start, you have to grind the started for about 30 seconds then it starts right up.
I checked to see if I could hear the fuel pump when the power is turned on and yes I can. But after checking the fuel pressure, there is no fuel pressure with the power on and the engine not running. Once the engine starts, there is about 65-68 pounds of fuel pressure - and the truck runs just fine. Starting is the only problem.
I was told I had to replace the fuel pump. Is the electric pump in the tank the ONLY fuel pump on the truck, or does it have a combination of the electric/tank pump and a mechanical pump on the engine?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Hard To Get Out Of 2nd Gear / Engine Surges Then Starts To Lose Power
My surging/running down issue has returned on my '86 2.3l Ranger. I thought it was electrical, when things improved with the new ignition switch, but lately it's hard to get out of 2nd gear before the engine surges then starts to lose power. a poke of the gas pedal starts the who cycle over again. I pulled codes but it's hard to tell what the reader is saying either 33 and 34 or 334. The good thing is all the codes point to the EGR system. Looking for a diagnosis tree to determine if the valve is bad or the sensor is shot? They are both not cheap so I don't want to just throw parts at the problem.
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Check Engine Light Randomly Comes On And Causes Power Loss Sometimes
2000 Ranger 2wd 3.0 ... I bought my truck last summer for $1k from my neighbor, it has hit a deer so the grill is busted,front drivers fender bent up and bumper is bent all to heck. The old girl is rock solid reliable though and gets decent mileage with cruise heat and ac so I'm happy.
Anyways on to the point, I am having two big issues with it, the check engine light randomly comes on and causes it lose power sometimes at others you don't notice it. I have not been able to get codes read because it goes off every single time I go to someplace with a scanner. The light will usually go off if you floor it for a long stretch maf maybe?
The other issue is the transmission, I don't know for sure which tranny it is but the overdrive button does not work at all even though the fuses are good and when I drive down the highway second gear you have to let off for it to shift sometimes ( I've been leaning towards the valve body gasket for that) and lately it has started a horrible vibration kicking out of overdrive or just downshifting on hills etc.?
I forgot to mention it has 255k miles on it and I don't know the history besides the balljoint I replaced this week and radiator when I bought it.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 3.0 VS 4.0 Engine?
Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Service Engine Soon Light - No Codes In Torque
The SES light in my 2001 7.3 came on about a month ago while I was towing a light trailer in the SoCal mountains. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. I retorqued them to spec.
Both batteries were disconnected for the 2 weeks. When I started the truck the SES light was still on.
My Torque Pro app isn't showing any error codes, and is reading live data correctly. (I didn't have the app when the light first came on; I only purchased it after I finished the repairs). Am I missing something? Is the SES light not necessarily connected to fault codes? If so, wouldn't it reset after 2 weeks with the batteries disconnected?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Engine 3.0 Or 4.0?
thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Top End Engine Cleaner
Does running a can of top end cleaner through your engine like Seafoam foul your oxygen sensors? should they be removed beforehand?
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1989 - No Power At All?
I have been thru everything i can think of except the main ECU on the ranger.
I've replaced the starter as well as the starter solenoid also the ignition switch.
What is happening is there is no power after the main wire to the solenoid from the battery. it doesn't power up anything. I've checked the fusible link and it appears intact. with a test light i can see that i have no power from the ignition itself i guess to tell the solenoid to work. i have noticed that the ignition cylinder is a little loose but what can cause there to be no power at all?
Could it be a bad solenoid?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Engine Won't Firing
i have a 1986 ford ranger with a bored out 2.9 v6 that is not getting spark sent to the spark plugs disrtibutor has been changed along with spark plug wires any clue what the problem is
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Gas Will Not Keep Engine Running
1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Constant Engine Tick?
New motorcraft plugs, wires, and coil packs. I'm running havoline 5w30 with a motorcraft filter now. I didn't notice the tick when I got it only a few months ago, but it could have been there and not as noisy, I'm not really sure.
I've got some parts to put on when I get time. Probably be a month or 2. I have a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, block heater, drive belt, tensioner, and idler.
It's a constant tick. Worse when cold, but still there warm. Sounds like under the valve cover. I'm not afraid to get in there and fix it, just would like to hear some opinions on what it could be for sure. I've read about the lucas and high mileage oil combo maybe reducing the noise, but if its fixable, I'd like to do it when I have it torn down for the timing belt, which is original I'm sure by looking at it. I really don't like abnormal noises from my engine compartment. Bugs the crap out of me.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Was Not Revving Up When Stepped On The Gas
I have a 91 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Recently the engine was not reving up when i stepped on the gas. But, it kept running and i got home. Then one day it just wouldn't start after i just shut it off. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor,fuel pump and filter.I have spark to all 6 plugs and good fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I'm leaning toward the timing. Last night I found the harmonic balancer will just spin freely. Will this stop it from firing?If it is the timing, how do I find tdc and where is the # 1 firing position on the distributor cap(no markings)?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - A/C Won't Kick On Until Engine Is Hot
It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Does Not Start Without Being Primed
Engine doesn't want to start without being primed once started ideals real good but still sometimes Bogs out on acceleration.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Light Comes On For A Few Days Then Goes Off?
I have an intermittent problem with the check engine light. While driving in town once in a while the truck runs rough for just a short time. Then the check engine light comes on for a few days then goes off. The truck runs just fine after the rough 2 minutes but the light stays on. I checked the gas cap and it's ok. I changed gas stations but no difference. Sometimes it happens then doesn't happen for another 2 weeks.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Running The Engine For AC - ABS Light Came On
So I'm sitting in my 99 2.5L at work while we are empty, running the engine for A/C because it's quite hot out. The truck was running for a half an hour or so, not moving, and I look up from my phone at my dash, to see a brand new ABS light on....
So I've pulled out my handy code reader, but no ABS codes have arrived. Maybe my reader can't read it, or maybe I need to drive. But what could this be? And is it safe to drive the truck home tonight? Pedal pressure still feels normal.