Ford - Ranger :: 1995 - Clutch Does Not Engage / Pedal Starts To Feel A Little Spongy
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
Ford - Ranger :: 2002 - No Clutch Pedal Or Shifting Hard
When I bought my ranger used, the clutch felt ok. But as a couple weeks had passed, it started to get hard to shift. The clutch doesn't slip at all so a friend of mine said there might be air in the system.
I would pump the clutch pedal a few times and then it would shift ok for a while, then back to shifting hard. I found the bleeder and had my son assist me with bleeding the system. Everything was fine at first but I made a big mistake and now i have no pedal feel at all.
My mistake was i didn't realize what I thought was the reservoir was not the actual reservoir. There was a black rubber thing in the reservoir that I filled with fluid. My mistake was I needed to take out this black rubber thing.
So now i am stuck with no pedal and don't know what to do. When I pulled out the black rubber thing, the reservoir was empty so i filled it and it bubbled for a second and then stopped. Tried pedal at this point and there is no feel at all. It just goes to floor with no effort.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 - Clutch Pedal Hard And Could Not Depress It
This is unusual. After driving into town for new tires, the clutch pedal was hard and I could not depress it after the tire tech parked the truck. It did finally depress with a pop, though the pedal functioned there after the clutch did not function properly.
At times it seemed to be ok at other times it seemed weak. I stopped by Autozone and checked the fluid, seemed low and I added some. Continued home not completely confident that I would make it. Had to make one stop along the way.
Once again the clutch pedal was stuck at the top and would not depress. I finally slid the safety switch up the clutch shaft to start the truck, when the engine started the pedal depressed. I was able to continue home but the clutch is not functioning properly.
Ford Transmission :: 1995 F150 - Clutch Pedal Losing Pressure?
I have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
View 8 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1995 - Clutch Will Start To Stick After 20 - 30 Minutes Of Driving
So I have had an issue with my Ranger. When the car is cold it's fine. After a while...maybe 20-30 minutes of driving, the clutch will start to stick. No better way to describe it. I will take my foot off and it will stick on its way back. It starts subtle but the this will gradually get worse and eventually the clutch will seize up and I can't press it anymore and the car stalls and I'm stuck. The car cools off and everything will be fine no problem.....but the problem keeps resurfacing.
View 6 RepliesFord - Ranger :: 1995 - Pulls Hard To The Right
I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger that pulls hard to the right. It has always pulled to the right a little, but recently it has been worse. About a year and a half ago I replaced all four shocks, the two front tires, and had all four wheels aligned, but this did not stop the slight pull to the right. I get it back from the mechanic yesterday, and he tells me that there is a little bit of wire showing on the inside or the front drivers side tire.Is there some kind of joint or something in the steering that may be worn out that needs to be replaced? If so, how much does something like this cost to replace?I've been slowly replacing everything on my truck that needs to be replaced as I get the money, but it seems that lately it's just got way more expensive. I know that it's not a cheap fix for something like this, but I just wish it wouldn't happen all at once
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Pedal Went Almost To The Floor Before Disengaging
1997 Ford Ranger w/manual 5 speed tranny
A few weeks back my clutch pedal seemed a bit softer than usual one day. Still it worked fine... no problems shifting. Today after a short ride it went almost to the floor before disengaging. Now I cannot get it in gear without grinding.
So cold out I'm not sure I want to tackle this right now, what to look for and where?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1996 - Clutch Pedal Locks When Hot
I've had my truck a few years now but for 2 it was basically parked. When I started trying to use it again I am having issues with the clutch now. When it is cold everything is fine, but on hot days or after I have been driving for a while It will lock the pedal up and will not let me dis-engage the clutch at all. Sometimes when it does eventually let the pedal down it will go to the floor and stay there for a few seconds until it slaps back up and engages slamming the truck into gear.
I have yet to try much. I'm not good at working on anything other than stereos in cars but I am willing to try. My thought is some water got into the system and is boiling in the lines but I am not sure. Places to start? I really need my truck going and the couple places I've taken it dont even want to try it seems like.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Clutch Pedal Went To The Floor
My buddy called and said his clutch pedal went to the floor on his 04 4.0 ranger. Said no fluid leaks or anything, so I suspect the slave cylinder went. He said the slave is on the inside of the trans and you gotta pull the trans to do the slave, so might as well do the clutch too. How hard is it to replace both these on this truck? I've done it on a 94 cummins, so the trans should be a lot lighter. just wondering how bad of a job it is to do?
View 2 RepliesSaturn :: 1995 SL Lurch When In 1st Gear, Even Though Clutch Pedal Fully Depressed
When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
View 8 RepliesRanger :: 2000 Ford XLT - Clutch Pedal Stuck After About 15 Minutes Of Driving
I'll drive my 2000 Ford Ranger, 4cyl XLT about 5 miles to the store without a problem. On the way home, after a few miles, the clutch pedal will either jam at the top, or go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. If I wait 5 or 10 minutes, the clutch pedal will start working again for a short time.
If I feel the clutch pedal starting to misbehave, if I ride the clutch and don't release the clutch pedal all the way, and if I don't push the clutch pedal all the way down, I can keep driving the truck. As soon as I release the clutch pedal, it will jam up again, or the clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor without engaging the clutch. I don't like riding the clutch, but that seems to be the only way to get home once the clutch pedal starts jamming.
It certainly seems related to the engine warming, or heating up. Sometimes, after the clutch jams up, I'll wait 5-10 minutes and the clutch pedal will start working as if nothing every happened. So, it can't be strictly a hot engine, hot clutch fluid issue, right?
What would you attempt to replace first, the Slave Cylinder? The Master? Changing the fluid? Shooting the truck!?
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Pedal Will Not Go To The Floor And Therefore Truck Won't Start
Installed a new clutch and slave today. Kept the same master cylinder.
The problem I am having is that the clutch pedal will not go to the floor, and therefore the truck won't start. The slave is moving back and forth roughly 3/8 inch, maybe more. I am pretty confident that there is no air in the system.
If I loosen the pressure plate a little, the clutch will go to the floor. But tighten it back up, and it again only goes down about 75%. This is a late '95 so it has the self adjusting clutch. I did get the correct kit for it, as well as slave. It's like the self adjusting part is too far adjusted and won't let my slave travel as far as needed.
In troubleshooting, I did notice that I failed to get the dowels in the flywheel aligned in the pressure plate. I am old school and not used to dowels in the flywheel! The dowels are not hitting anything and are not preventing the pressure plate from seating on the flywheel. But it is something I'm going to fix if I have to pull the trans again.
For reference, I replaced the clutch because the slave cylinder was hanging up and preventing the clutch from getting fully released. Aka clutch slipping.
Ford - Ranger :: Clutch Pedal Feels Normal But No Resistance When Shifting Gears
I have a 5-speed transmission pickup (’04 Ford Ranger EDGE SuperCab). Clutch pedal feels "normal", No resistance when shifting gears. Will go into gear with ease, except for 2nd gear (grinding noise), must push clutch to the floor and still grinds; but only 2nd gear. In 1st gear, my truck will slowly creep forward as if unable to engage and not having any kind of pulling power. Even when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears, it barely maxes out at 30MPH (top speed unless vehicle is on a slope or slight decline then I can get up to and over 40MPH. Checked brake fluid level, it’s ok. The fluid’s at max. Clutch is relatively new (April 2014), with only about 13,000 miles on it, if that. It must be cylinder issue. Is there any way to tell whether it's the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder?
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 - Master Cylinder Rod Falling Off Of Clutch Pedal
I have a 88 ranger supercab 2.9l 4x4 with the fm146 trans and recently I have had a problem with my clutch master cylinder rod falling off my clutch pedal. I bought the new bushing and put it on and it was fine until yesterday. It wants to keep coming off. Is there a clip of some sort to hold it on or no. I looked at a few at the salvage yard and they did not have a clip just the bushing. So what do I do?
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 - How Hard Is It To Replace A Clutch
I think the time is near for a new clutch in my 98 Ranger, 2wd/ 5 spd. How tough of a job is this? I've changed the one in my 66 Mustang years ago but things were less complicated then.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 - Clutch Pedal Rubber Stop Part Number?
I'm looking for a part number for the rubber stop that mounts behind the clutch pedal on the firewall for a 2001 Ford Ranger 4cyl 2.3L 5spd Manual. Can't seem to find it on the web. It looks like it snaps/presses into a mounting hole behind the pedal. The original one decided to disintegrate and now I get a nice knocking noise when ever the pedal is depressed.
View 7 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: New Clutch - Hard To Shift Going Into 1st / 2nd And Reverse Intermittently
1997 Ranger extended cab, 222k mi., 4 cyl, standard transmission. Shifting got worse until it finally died and the mechanic replaced the clutch "kit" and slave cylinder.
It still fights back going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse. But it is intermittent. If I put it in neutral, depress the clutch, and start the vehicle, then, after a few seconds wait, when I try to go into 1st (or reverse), it fights me back, forcing me to pause and apply about twice the pressure I should need to go into gear. When I go forward in 1st, and am ready to shift to 2nd, it fights back so that I have to pause just a bit and apply more pressure than I should for it to go into 2nd gear. 3rd, 4th, and overdrive are FINE. Also, the clutch seems to disengage about halfway down, where I was expecting it to disengage after only 10 -20% depression.
The mechanic doesn't see the problem (or won't admit it). Is there an adjustment to make the clutch disengage with only 10-20% depression instead of the 50%? Is that something I should be worrying about?
Is there some other problem? Like maybe the synchromesh mechanism in the transmission itself not bringing the transmission rotor to engine speed soon enough (wear on the synchromesh)?
When it was new, it went into ALL gears with ease, no fighting back, and it starrted doing this after about 150k miles. Now, at 222k mi., even with a new clutch, plate, throughout bearing, and slave cylinder, it still seems partially stuck going into 1st, 2nd, and reverse.
I just don't want to start replacing things until I can get a correct diagnosis as to what is causing the problem.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Hard Shift - Transmission Or Clutch?
The truck: 03 Ranger, 2wd, 2.3L, 5spd, 160k mi
I bought the truck two years ago and it's always been difficult to shift (especially into 1st, 2nd, 3rd). I don't drive it often and only put 5k mi on it since I bought it.
The problem: Someone more mechanically inclined than I once told me that the hard shifting is probably due to the clutch not fully releasing due to low hydraulic pressure brought about by a failing slave cylinder.
I just noticed today that there is a high-pitched squeaking coming from somewhere on the truck. At first, I thought it was the rear end, but now, after pulling it into the driveway, I noticed that the squeaking noise vanishes when I push in the clutch pedal and returns after I release the clutch pedal and drive in 1st gear.
The transmission oil level is good, but I've never changed it and I'm not sure if the previous owner ever did either. I'm hoping I haven't damaged the transmission.
After reading a few threads, it seems the problem might be the input shaft bearing. To replace it, I'd need to drop the transmission and borrow a couple of tools I don't have (feeler gauge and bearing puller). If the ISB is the problem, it seems like it would be a good idea to change it now before it seizes and leaves me stranded somewhere.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Clutch Start To Engage / Disengage At Half Way Point On The Pedal Travel?
So I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
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