Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Way To Clear OBD1 Codes?

E-150, 5.8/351

The Haynes manual says not to disconnect battery (for whatever amount of time) to clear codes because it also clears the keep alive memory forcing the computer to relearn.

What is the correct way to clear codes? The manual says talks about jumping the OBD connectors some way but I cannot tell what is showing in the picture.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Reset And Clear Check Engine Light

2001 explorer sport, need to reset and clear check engine light I know the problem a small pinhole in exhaust that opens up and i fill it in How do i reset check engine light...

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Ford - Explorer :: 2004 - Getting Bank 1 And 2 Lean Codes?

My 04 Explorer 4.0 has been giving me the bank 1&2 lean codes. It is the fully electronic throttle body not mechanical. It seems from reading that in 04 is when they switched to the electronic version. Here are some things I have done to resolve this. I created a diy smoke machine from a paint can and air. I found a leak by the egr.

I replaced the egr and gaskets, along with the metal part that goes into the throttle body. I replaced the pcv and hose(although it looked fine). I replaced my intake gaskets. I replaced the MAF sensor.

Before all of this my lt fuel trims were +25 for both bank 1 & 2. After doing all of this my trims did come down a little to Bank 1 +16 and bank 2 +23. I dont know what to check next!

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Ford - Explorer :: 2002 - Windshield And Side Windows Taking Forever To Clear Up When Foggy

I got an 02 explorer xlt with the manual heater control and I've noticed now that it's getting colder it seems like my windshield and side windows are taking forever to clear up when they are foggy. When I put my hand up by the window or the vents for the driver/passenger side windows there's barely any air movement, and that is even when the blower is on the maximum level.

Another thing I've noticed is if I set it to floor only, it blows out the defrost. Same for the defrost only, I can feel some air blowing onto my feet. So what to look for when I pull this into a garage and start to looking around. I also changed the coolant and put in a new thermostat about a month ago, if that's of any importance.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2004 V6 Rough Idle - Codes P2104 And P2112

I have a 2004 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC V6.

I was having some rough idle and a P0401 code for Insufficient EGR Flow. In the process of investigating the EGR valve, I had to remove the throttle position sensor to remove the EGR. After re-installing everything, I had a worse rough idle and I again removed the EGR valve; however this time instead of removing the throttle position sensor, I removed the entire throttle body assembly.

After re-installing everything again, I now have very rough idle and no pedal response. I have the following two codes:

P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Closed
P2112- Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed

I did not unplug any harness, and all connections are secure. I did not remove the battery cables while working on it, but I did remove the negative cable for about 45 minutes after getting the P2104/P2112 codes hoping a reset my fix things.

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Passat (B6) :: Cannot Get Steering Assist / ABS Fault Codes To Clear

I have followed the process for clearing and resetting the Steering Assist/ABS fault codes. I have done all the steps several times and cannot get the faults to clear, although the VAG-COM indicates all is green during the testing phase.

[URL].................... And the faults will not clear.

Here is the scan results, (non-fault sections removed):

VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1

Data version: 20070422

Sunday,03,June,2007,17:47:17:25986

Chassis Type: 3C0

Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 36 42 44 46 47 52 53 55 56 62 65 72 76

[Code] ....

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Cannot Clear Codes P0123 And P1605

My 2001 Accent (Manual Tranny) with 95,000 miles needed the head rebuilt due to the timing belt slipping and making a mess of the valves. The car threw no codes before the mishap and ran perfectly but now shows the codes P0123 and P1605 after the rebuild. The shop that did the work said they spent 5 hrs trying to figure why these codes are showing. They swapped out the TPS which didn't work. I'm not sure if they swapped out the acceleration sensor. Anyway, since I picked up the car,it was idling low at about 500 RPm and fluctuating in neutral (remember its a manual. In the week that followed, the car wouldn't start a few times which I found out to be a loose negative terminal on the battery. Since I fixed that problem, the car idles at about 1,000 RPM when I start it but then jumps up to about 2,000 once it's warmed up or if I downshift and then throw it in neutral! And yes, the same 2 codes show up on my scanner.

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Mercury - Villager :: 1998 - Random Misfire Codes That Would Clear And Return

Yesterday, i changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, mass air flow sensor, air filter and replaced the in and out take coolant lines in the throttle body.

Before yesterday, i got random misfire codes that would clear and return, i have no a/c, i believe the thermostat needs replacing as the van runs hot after a while of running and quickly when idling and the upper radiator hose is hot. The van's idle is rough to the point that some one else turned up the idle so it would stop stalling so frequently, especially in reverse. it stalls very very rarely now.

then a few days a go i got a knock sensor code that clears itself and then returns.

A friend changed the distributor cap, and noticed some melting and corrosion, hence the spark plug and wire change. this friend also pulled the wiring harness for the front 3 injectors while it was running. the one on the far right created no audible engine change (also this spark plug was immaculate compared to the others), so he said it is bad (or is my friend a moron?)i had also noticed a coolant hose that would spray coolant when really hot.

So yesterday i tackled the above. In the process of doing this i had to rip the other coolant hose to remove throttle body, i replaced these with a self cut piece of 1/2 heater hose. after removing throttle body, i realized i needed a gasket. so got one of those.

a few notes:i used antisieze lube and dielectric lube on spark plugs, thread and ceramic respectively. the mass air flow sensor is used.i cleaned the throttle valve with brake cleaner (non chlorinated) because it was nasty! i did not remove the cables attached to throttle body, just moved it out of the way while working.i hand tightened everything.there were 2 skinny hoses i disconnected, one with a metal tip that went in to the large rubber air intake hose, and one that ran into the throttle body (this hose ripped like a 1/4 inch off it seemed long enough, so i did not replace). i disconnected the large air intake hose at 3 spots with pipe clamps.i disconnected 3 wiring harnesses 2 at throttle body and 1 at mass air flow sensor

Now, it seems the van is running smoother while getting gas, but rougher when idling. What did i miss? what would be causing a rougher idle? I am now at work, i will not be home till around 9 cst. So I cannot check anything.the van did throw another code, but i have not checked it yet.

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Ford - Explorer :: Noisy Catalytic Converter - No Codes

4.6L DOHC - My driver's side catalytic converter is making quite a bit of noise during acceleration when the engine is warm. I have no trouble codes, no cel and the truck seems to be running fine in general.

I am exploring repair possibilities. I've talked to two shops - one general repair, one exhaust specialist. Neither gave me any options other than to replace the whole system. That isn't an option. I'm a semi-competent home mechanic and if that's what has to be done I'll just buy the walker system from RA and do it myself.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Got Codes P171 / P174?

I have a 99 explorer 4.0L. I am getting trouble codes p171 and p174. I have cleaned the MAF and changed the EGR valve already. I have done some research on this and am coming up with it's either the O2 sensors or there is an air intake leak (gasket). This started up a couple months ago and I have been working on it when I can. I don't really want to spend another $50 on an O2 sensor if it's the gasket.

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Ford - Explorer :: SES Light On / Codes P2196 And P0405

I have an 03 Explorer 4.6L that is running bad. The code was P2196, I changed B1S1 O2 sensor and cleared code. A few minutes later the SES light was on, I checked codes and now I have P2196 (again) and P0405. Why I was only getting the O2 code and now I have it again after replacing it and a new code (0405 EGR)..

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Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - ABS Light Won't Go Off But No Error Codes

How do I get abs light to go off? I removed and cleaned all sensors, checked all wiring, fuses, and diode. I also used a a scanner, and it tells me there are no error codes. What do i do now?

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Ford - Explorer :: 2001 - Too Lean Codes P0171 And P0174

Working on my son's 2001 sport trac. 200K miles but it has always been a great running truck.

I have two CEL codes:

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

I have found several issues so far, but have yet to get rid of these pesky codes.

So far I have changed:

- Intake Gasket - I had coolant loss which replacing this gasket fixed.
- PCV Valve and Hose - valve was damaged and the hose leaked.
- EGR Valve - Valve was leaking
- Fuel Filter
- Mass Airflow Sensor

The engine does appear to be running much smoother now, but the lean codes remain.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Shakes Above 57 Mph - Codes P0401 And P0301

The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow

I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Wiring Codes - Windows Not Working?

None of the windows will function. Took off the door panel wiggled the wiring harness and the windows would function. Fortunately I got them all up.

Now with nicer weather it would be nice to have them working. I assume I have a broken wire leading to the master switch in the driver door. What would be the color code that is likely broken.

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Ford - Explorer :: Transmission Is Slipping / SES Light On - Multiple Codes

Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174

I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.

Heres what I have found:

P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."

Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?

I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Lean Codes P0171 And P0174

2003 Sport Trac. My car was not starting, told my fuel pump, replaced twice and nothing. Found out about inertia switch and changed it, now car runs.

Before this switch blew out my car was running perfectly, no check engine, nothing. Now i have changed my fuel pump twice and put a brand new fuel filter in and soon after i get lean codes P0171 and P0174. My fuel pressure is 60psi at idle and drops to 0 after about 30 seconds when the car is shut off.

A lot of my intake is new since i did have a vacuum leak before, so i do not suspect that is it, especially since this happened after the new fuel pump. I am completely stuck as to what i should do. And i get hesitation when trying to accelerate sometimes

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Ford - Explorer :: 2003 - Idling Rough With P2196 And P0174 Codes

I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).

I pulled the codes and I've got a:

P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)

That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.

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Ford - Explorer :: 1999 - Codes P1151 And P0133 / Shutter When Going Up Hills

I have a 1999 explorer with a 4.0 ohv auto with about 174,000 miles on it. the PO changed the coil pack, wires, plugs, MAF and cat on it trying to get rid of codes. I know the from searching that they are both precat 02 codes. So I am planning on looking for vacuum leaks with propane around intake and egr and checking on the fuel pressure and wiring and connections. Is there any thing else I should check out? for both sensors to throw this code? The truck runs ok just has a shutter when going up hills and stuff.

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