Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Back Door And Glass Won't Open
2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
View 14 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Back-up Assist On / Off Button Is Intermittent
Why my BU assist on/off button is intermittant? It comes on and off when "it" wants to but won't respond when "I" push it. When it's on, it works fine but when it's off, I can't turn it on but the "off" light is still functional. Switch, relay, sub computer?
View 3 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2011 - Adding Back Up Camera?
I just purchased a 2011 Escape to live with my 7.3 Excursion. I want to install a BU camera in the Escape. The mirror has wiring to it, do not know why.Can I use that exiting wiring? What was it for and where does it go?
View 1 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Cracking Sound When Turn Steering Wheel Back And Forth
My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
View 1 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Clogged Drain Lines - Water Will Flow Back To Relay In Fuse Box?
Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
View 3 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Slow Reaction Fuel Gauge / Whirring Noise When Shutting Off The Car And Turning It Back On
My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 Ford Escape Transmission Fluid Change
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
Ford - Escape :: 2004 - A/C Blows Hot Air While Driving
2004 Ford Escape air conditioner works GREAT when sitting idle. Air conditioner blows HOT air while driving. Seems like the faster I go or the more load on the engine the hotter it blows. Weird?
View 2 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2004 - Key Stuck In Ignition And Won't Come Out
The key is stuck. It doesn't turn all the way back to the off position and the steering wheel will not lock. The shifter will still move when I turn the key and press the brakes. The car drives fine. Just can't take the key out of the ignition. This escape has the shifter on the steering column.
Solved: There is a tiny switch (like the one in the pic) that tells the car when the shifter is in the park position. It snaps into position in a little plastic slot. It had popped out of its slot and could not be actuated. It has 3 wires attached to it. I snapped it back into its slot and it works fine now.
Including a pic of it in its proper position. Hard to see it but that's how it looks when it is correct. Pic was taken with my phone stuck down behind it because I could not see it. So this view is as if you were inside the steering column looking back toward the driver seat.
It is located in the steering column near the top. The top cover on the steering column pops off and you can see it without taking the steering column loose, and with some skill and luck it can be snapped back into its slot. Also before inserting the switch, move the shifter down to another position so the little arm will not be in the way.
Ford - Escape :: 2004 - Tachometer Fluctuation Between 35 - 40 Mph?
I just bought a used 2004 Ford Escape Limited ( with a 30 day warranty). I have noticed when it is in park and idle, the tachometer fluctuates a little, between 500 and 1000 RPM's. When I was driving it tonight I also noticed that between 35-40 mph, the tachometer fluctuates up and down and the car seems to surge a little. I put it in cruise to make sure that I wasn't adding any pressure on the accelerator that I wasn't aware of and it still did it. ( Not sure if this problem could be tranny related, but I should note that I had the tranny flushed when I purchased it last week.)
View 13 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2004 - O2 Sensor Failure Repeatedly
I have a 2004 Ford Escape that seems to have developed an appetite for one of its O2 sensors, about 1 a month for the past 3 months. Specifically Bank 1 Sensor 2. That is this the downstream sensor for cylinders closest to the firewall. I have replaced the sensor twice and the last sensor just popped the code to let me know it's passed on. The code is P0136 is the code that has popped every time. The live data shows a flat 0.0 off of the sensor.
So before I replace another sensor, what would cause the same sensor to die 3 times in a 3 month time period?
Ford - Escape :: 2004 - High Pitched Idle
Earlier this year, I had to have my alternator changed out in my 04 Ford Escape - the local shop installed a re-manufactured part to save me a bit of money (which was fine with me, considering the brand new alternator I had had installed needed to be replaced after a year and a half). For the most part, the car works fine, but when it is idling (especially after a cold start) there is a constant high pitched "whir" sound. I have also noticed the lights dim a bit when more systems are used, but nothing ever stops working. I have had the alternator checked 3 times now, but each time it is charging the car normally. What could be causing this?
View 12 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2004 - Codes P0316 And P0305
I am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
View 17 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2004 - Squealing Noise When Accelerating?
I have a 2004 Ford Escape Limited. There is a squealing noise when I accelerate from a complete stop. It's not there constantly, and seems to have started when I started using the AC. When I had my oil changed tonight at a Tires Plus, I asked them to listen, and the mechanic thought it was a valve related issue since it's not a constant noise. He only got it to squeal by hitting the gas really hard. He said to take it to a dealer...which is super expensive!
View 11 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 2WD Stalls Out - No Codes
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Headlights Always On When Running
Lights come on when the ignition is on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch. They shut off about 1 minute after the engine is shut off. The warning chime dings the entire time until the lights shut off.
I want the light to work with the switch and not come on all the time.
It is not just the daytime running lamps. High beams also work with the headlight switch in the off position, ignition on.
Ignition off, the headlights switch functions as it should.
I bought the Escape about 1 month ago. Dealer purchase so I don't know how to get a hold of the previous owner.
It only has 51,000 miles, very clean and all service records.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Cannot Seem To Get Air Bled From Brakes
I had to replace all brakes because the bleeders were rusted in, wouldn't come out. So I bled and re-bled, but the brake pedal is still squashy and goes down too far if I have to stop from any speed. I even used my vacuum pump for evacuating air conditioning systems, pulled quarts of fluid through all the brakes-definitely no 2004 vintage fluid in there any more! Yes, I made sure to never pull the master cylinder reservoir empty, which would let in air. I always start from right aft and end up at left front, in order of bleed first. No leaks, the fluid level is always where I left it on previous session. I must be missing something...How can there still be air?
View 14 RepliesFord :: 2004 Escape Occasionally Jerks While In Park Or Brake
I have a 2004 Ford Escape that has never caused any issues...except now. I have recently noticed that occasionally when I have my foot on the brake, my car makes a forward jerking motion. It never slips out of gear. It just jerks forward. It's not all the time either. Also this morning, my husband went to start the car and while it was still in park, he said it did the same thing. Like I said, the car never shifts out of gear and I never hear grinding gears when I do shift.
View 1 RepliesFord :: Escape XLT 2004 - Knocking / Pulsating In Brake Pedal
Having ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.