Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1979 F150 - Disk Brake Caliper Replacement / Evaluation
I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
View 5 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 2WD - Front Brake Scraping While Driving
2000 Explorer 2WD. I had tons of front end issues that I have been working through. So far I have done upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, got an alignment. The steering/suspension system is in good shape now.
Now the only thing left is a scraping/grinding sound coming from the driver's side brakes. I mostly hear it at low speeds (taking off from lights, etc).
When I was doing all of the other work, I observed that the rotor is in great shape, brake pads look great. I am wondering if it is a caliper issue, maybe the caliper isn't releasing enough or something. What to check?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 Excursion - Rear Brake Line Leak
Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 - Parking Brake Shoes Won't Hold The Truck At All?
I have a 2000 F350 4X4 with a V10 under the hood and a 5 speed manual transmission. It has a heavy western hauler bed, and a dual tired rearend. The truck has disc brakes all the way around that work great. I bought the truck used and immediately replaced all the disc brake pads as well as the seperate parking brake shoes and I had the parking brake drums turned. My problem is the parking brake shoes won't hold the truck at all and never have even when they were new. The parking brake shoes seem very small to me for a truck this size and weight. I have adjusted them as tight as I can with out causing them to drag when they are released. Is this a common problem for this type of parking brake on this type of truck? Is there something I am over looking or need to do to perhaps improve the parking brake? Would it be possible to splice some sort of "locking" valve into the brake lines going to the disc brakes to perhaps hold them engaged when I park the truck? I have a good idea how air brakes work, so I suppose this "locking" valve would work like that except basically opposite of a locking air brake valve, if that makes any sense.
View 14 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 F250 - When Brake Applied Rear End Starts Jumping And Bucking?
I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
View 3 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1994 F250 - Blown Brake Line / No Brakes At All?
I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1995 F150 XLT 5.8 - Replaced Brake Pads Now Spongy Brakes?
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2006 F250 - Rattling After Doing Brakes / Emergency Brake And Rear Wheel Bearings
Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2wd - Upgrading Rear Suspension?
I have a 2008 F150 Lariot 5.4 lit. 2wd.
I'm looking to upgrade the rear suspension ...
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Brake Will Not Stiffen Up
I have a '86 Fod Bronco that I have changed the brake lines on and the brakes will not stiffen up (they weren't that good before the switch either). The master cylinder leaks a couple thimble full after driving and it seems to pull a little while braking, but both the disc are shiny so the calipers are not locked. The pedal is still soft even if something is going on otherwise. I have tried bleeding having someone pump the brakes 5-10 times and hold it while I bled it and repeated 10 times on each bleeder screw using 32 oz of fluid, but apparently I did something wrong. All of this to say, have any of y'all used any brake bleeding vacuum kits and which ones would you recommend?
View 7 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Brake Pedal Goes All The Way To The Floor
My dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
View 4 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Brake Pedal Goes To The Floor
I did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Rear Brake Sticking / Hot Smell
I was fueling up my 06 F-250 yesterday and smelled hot brakes. I checked and found the right rear was really hot. After it cooled down I was able to drive on home and it was not too hot when I got here. I was towing a trailer with my tractor on it so I had a pretty good load. It was over 6 miles to my house with stop and go traffic and no hang up. What should I do to keep this from happening again? I don't drive this truck much but when I need it, I need it to be dependable. It has 99k on the clock and is a gas job.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1992 F250 - ABS Light Came On - Again Another Brake?
92 F250 4x4 with 140,000 mi. Abs light came on, Replaced the sensor on the rear axle, Light is still on. When the light comes on the brakes still work but it takes more pedal to stop. Now the Brake light comes on, It has new pads on the front, and its bleed out good. When you drive it some times it works fine, then out of the blue it lights up.
I have checked the fluid level, parking brake switch, and even swapped the abs black box with another, also bleed the bleeder on the left frame rail. When the lights come on you can pull off the road and turn off the motor and restart the lights stay off for several brake applies, then sometimes they light back up. The light issue is not that bad to me but it drives my wife crazy. I am more concerned about it taking more/harder pedal to stop.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Leaky Brake Line Behind The Gas Tank
I had a leaky brake line behind the gas tank on my 2000 f250 superduty and in the process of fixing that I ended up changing all my calipers and brakes. I've bled the lines and there is no air left in the lines but the brakes are still soft is there something else that needs to be bled. I think all brake fluid leaked on the floor when the line broke.
View 10 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1984 - Brake Fluid Disappearing?
1984 f150 with a new master cylinder, new brake booster, and new fluid. I did use dot 4 fluid (as opposed to dot 3) and bled out the system. This was about 9-10 months ago.
Just recently I noticed my brake pedal was going further down before I stopped; but I stopped. Since I switch between my car and truck a lot I thought this may have just been my imagination. What finally clued me in was when I couldn't stop as easily that something was obviously wrong.
Checked the master cylinder and the front reservoir was obviously empty. I couldn't find an obvious leak so took it to a shop. The added more fluid, bled the brakes and said its fine. They couldn't find a leak either.
Sooooo, any thoughts as to where my front brake fluid went? I'm assuming they took the wheels off and looked at the calipers too but I'm not sure I'll find out when I go pick it up in an hour. Could the dot 4 fluid have something to do with it? The brake lines, mast cyl, booster, proportioning valve and calipers are all bone dry. No obvious fluid leaks. Soooo now what.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Way To Bend Brake Lines Without A Bender?
Is there a good way to bend brake lines without a bender? I have two brake lines to bend that are probably no longer then 3 feet and don't want to buy a bender.
View 6 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Line Lock As Parking Brake?
Using a line lock as a parking brake? Going to switch to 4 wheel disc wont have parking brake.
View 10 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1999 F150 - Getting Air Out Of Brake Lines?
I am having trouble big time getting air out of my brake lines. I put new front pads and rotors on and also had to replace the brake line coming from the caliper as it kind of crumbled and needed to replace the next line up that goes to the ABS block on the left front. After doing this, I bled that wheel only and at first it was ok until the brake line on the right front at the caliper also broke when I was pushing on the brake pedal with the truck running, spewing fluid all over. I have tried to bleed using a decent vacuum bleed setup from Advanced Auto but keep getting massive amounts of air coming out and when I start the truck and hit the brake pedal, it goes to the floor. Could the master cylinder be bad? I have checked every connection that I made and all other connections and there are no leaks at all. I am stuck in the garage! The truck is a 1999 F150 4x4 with 4 wheel ABS.
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