Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1999 F350 - Brake Shoes Contacting Rotor (dragging) When Engine Is Off
I changed over to summer tires today on my 1999 4wd F350 diesel . While the front tires were off of the ground, I tried rotating the wheels by hand to see what the resistance was like. I was surprised at how stiff they were. It would take three fingers to rotate the wheel and as soon as I stopped applying pressure the wheel stopped turning. I pulled the rims off and found that the calipers appeared to be contacting the rotors and causing resistance.
My last rig was a 1960s 4wd F250 that had calipers that could be adjusted manually. I kept these adjusted so the calipers were almost touching the rotors. I could spin the rims with one finger and the wheel would turn for 30 seconds or so until coming to a stop. Is this normal?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Line Lock As Parking Brake?
Using a line lock as a parking brake? Going to switch to 4 wheel disc wont have parking brake.
View 10 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1993 F250 - Parking Brake Adjustment?
So it looks like there is no adjustment on the Parking Brake on this ride other than adjusting the shoes up. As far as I can see my Parking Brake should work like a champ, but it won't hold on much of a hill. I have new shoes, new drums and it is adjusted up so I can hear them drag. I can actually feel it getting tight then looser as you spin the wheel, like one of the new drums is slightly out of round, so I don't think I could go much tighter. Is it possible one or more of the cables is stretched? I did see the shoes spread when I had the drums off and I stepped on the Park Brake, so I know things are working at least that much.
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 - Upgrading Disk Brake?
I have a 10 inch lift and 37's on my excursion 2000 7.3l. I need to upgrade the breaks, the tires make it very hard to stop.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 2WD - Front Brake Scraping While Driving
2000 Explorer 2WD. I had tons of front end issues that I have been working through. So far I have done upper control arms, upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, got an alignment. The steering/suspension system is in good shape now.
Now the only thing left is a scraping/grinding sound coming from the driver's side brakes. I mostly hear it at low speeds (taking off from lights, etc).
When I was doing all of the other work, I observed that the rotor is in great shape, brake pads look great. I am wondering if it is a caliper issue, maybe the caliper isn't releasing enough or something. What to check?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 Excursion - Rear Brake Line Leak
Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 2000 F250 - When Brake Applied Rear End Starts Jumping And Bucking?
I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
View 3 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Brakes Does Not Feel Soft / Truck Is Hard To Stop
I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1995 F250 Truck Does Not Stop Fast Enough When Hit The Brakes
My truck sat for 4 years. 1995 F-250. We needed to replace the brake lines. when you hit the brakes the truck does stop but not fast enough and it will not pass inspection this way. So far I've replaced
1. All the brake lines
2. Calipers
3. Brakes all around
4.RABS module
5. Master cylinder
6. Wheel cylinders
Pretty much everything but the brake booster. Lines were bled several times. The brakes still go to the floor. Anything else that I haven't tried? I want my truck back!
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: Front Brakes Are Dragging / Does Not Stop The Truck Just Gets Hot
First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Pull Up Really Hard To Get Parking Brake To Hold?
I have to pull up really hard to get the parking brake to hold. If I'm on a hill forget it, I yank up really hard and then leave it in gear just in case. I have installed new cables and pads. I have also have the lever adjusted so it starts to catch when you pull it up about 2-3 inches. I've never driven another mk4 so I don't have any other reference to how well the parking brake should hold but I would think that I wouldn't have to pull up this hard to get it to habe any real holding power.
Any other vehicle I've driven with a hand brake I could easily lock up the rear tires. I'm lucky to get mine to lock while pulling so hard I think I'm going to break something. I've searched around and have only come up with threads about replacing cables and adjusting the lever. I couldn't find anything like the problem I'm having. Is this normal operation for a mk4 or is there something wrong with my calipers that needs to be addressed? My regular brakes work fine and the parking brake arms on the calipers allear to be functioning properly. They contract then spring back on their own
Lexus RX 2010-15 :: Parking Brake Doesn't Hold In Reverse - Getting Audible Alarm?
The other day I backed out of my garage and didn't notice that the parking brake was still engaged. The car rolled out without a problem.
Only when I put it in drive did I realize that the parking brake was on, since the car didn't roll forward. I also got an audible alarm.
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1994 F250 - Blown Brake Line / No Brakes At All?
I have a 1994 F-250 4x4 w/manual transmission. I was driving a few days ago when the brake pedal suddenly went to the floor. I had almost no brakes (less than 10% at most), but luckily was able to get off the road safely. It was immediately apparent that the line connecting the T-fitting and the passenger side drum had broken.
I have never blown a brake line before, but I always assumed that you would have either front or rear brakes, depending on which line blew. Unfortunately I was wrong! The master cylinder reservoir was about 3/4 full when I initially checked it, but after I moved (slowly) the truck to a safer spot in the parking lot, I checked again and it was nearly empty.
Is my brake system behaving normally (no brakes front or rear, blown line completely empties the reservoir), or should there be some safety factor built in? If the system is operating correctly, is there any way to convert to a system that doesn't give out fully when a line is blown?
Ford Brakes/Suspension :: 1995 F150 XLT 5.8 - Replaced Brake Pads Now Spongy Brakes?
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 2006 F250 - Rattling After Doing Brakes / Emergency Brake And Rear Wheel Bearings
Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brakes Would Not Depress When Parking The Truck
I was parking my truck and the brakes wouldn't depress and I almost crashed into another vehicle that was parked.
View 14 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Cracking / Metal Stress Sound From Under Truck
I have a '06 F150 King Ranch with a after market lift. I sometimes hear a cracking, metal stress sounding noise from under the right side under carriage, I thought is was my brakes or shocks or something. If I take a right turn down an angle while braking or it happened during a rainy day going straight at a slight downward incline during braking, there's a knocking like pac..pac..pac..pac sound from under my rear or sometimes front passenger side fender well. I've taken it to a brake specialist and had it inspected by a mechanic, but no visible signs of a problem. What this might be? I told my brake specialist to check my anti lock system as the sound is evenly spaced and he said nothing is wrong.
View 1 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: Truck Badly Pulls Left When Braking Hard
Just replaced break pads and rotors. Inner pad on left side was gone leading me to believe slides were not working properly. Pulled apart, cleaned and greased everything, and replaced pads and rotors. Calipers seem to be working fine. Now when I break hard, the truck pulls badly to the left. When I break softly, it seeks normal. My front end is a bit out of whack and veers just a bit to the left. Do you think this is my issue with the breaking ? I'm getting new tires and an alignment soon but was just curious.
View 3 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1965 F100 - Adding Power Steering To Truck
I would like to add power steering to the truck. What I need to do and what parts are required. Could a 65F100 come from the factory with power steering?
View 2 Replies