Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - High Mount Third Brake Light
Trying to replace the burnt bulbs. Did the obvious: removed the two screws but in no way could I take the red lens off. I pried hard almost broke it but it's not coming off. It feels like some other mechanism holding it down. It is the one on top of the lift gate. The inside is just a hole with wires going through. What's the trick?
View 12 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - 4WD Warning Light Flashes Intermittently?
4wd warning light flashes 3 times intermittently. Which error this means.
View 4 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1994 - 3rd Brake Light Stuck On - Can't Change Bulbs
About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Won't Shift From 1st To 2nd / 2nd To Third?
This van has the A4LD transmission. I know nothing about transmissions, so, when it wouldn't shift from 1st to 2nd, or, 2nd to third, I researched it on here and found a lot of bad reviews. I also found out that it was likely the modulator gone bad, and how to replace it. I replaced it, and although the new one was restricted and the old one wasn't, shifting was back to normal. So, I was thinking, that was easy enough, pretty good for the original tranny which has 297,623 miles on it, and hasn't been serviced since the first 1k!
Well, that lasted about 75 miles. Now it won't go forward or backward. Everything is still in place, no leaks, fluid level is full. I didn't change the fluid or do anything other than change the modulator. (My friend can't afford to service it properly. Now it may need replacing!) I have only seen problems shifting between gears and OD, TC lockup, etc., but, nothing about not moving at all. What might be the problem? Is the tranny history?
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 Won't Shift Out Of Park
I just picked up Aerostar #6 and am in the process of transferring parts etc. Got this one cheap as it was badly abused and has issues. Big problem, the shifter takes a lot of wiggling etc to get out of park. Is the interlock easy to disable? If so how? Or would a good column from my 93 be an easy plug and play proposition?
View 1 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Control Arm Bushings?
can you replace the upper control arm bushings (pass side) with the arm still in the truck?
View 8 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Outer Tie Rod Replacement
I was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enough for the parts but not extra tools. Need a tutorial on how to do it?
View 6 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Stalling When Hit The Brakes Hard
When I hit the brakes hard like seating the brakes the Aero would stall....
View 12 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Sloppy And Loose Shifter?
My mom's 95 shifter is slowly getting worse. Right now it's at the point where we have to hunt for gears just to put it into park or reverse or d/od. It's not stiff like the rest of ours, hers is all sloppy and loose. She says it's been doing this for a while, but i think it got worse when i pulled her cluster out to change the light bulbs. I say this because i couldn't get the needle cable un done, so i just let the cluster rest on it while i was changing the bulbs, which put a little bit of tension on it.
View 14 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Hard To Shift Out Of Park
I have a 95 Aerostar that when in park it is hard to shift into reverse, drive etc. It is an automatic, 3.0 liter.
View 7 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Easiest Way To Change Belt?
Whats the easiest procedure
View 3 RepliesFord - Aerostar :: 1995 - Won't Start / Dirty Spark Plug?
My dad and I are having allot of trouble getting our Aerostar to start up . It is getting fuel and spark , and it won't even run with starter fluid . It was running ruff before this . It is getting an all clear on the OBD codes . We took one spark plug out and it was pretty dirty , could that be our problem? Like I said we are getting spark , when we do a spark test . We are totally out of clues .
View 7 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Rough Idle / Jerky Acceleration
Symptoms: (162K miles, last tune up about 70K miles ago) rough idle, and poor acceleration. Occasionally, the car really jerks while accelerating. I read about new plugs/wires, and something called seafoam. I think the highway patrol would pull me over as a gross polluter, but that too seems worth a try. Various sensors and hoses, I'm frankly overwhelmed. Where to start?
Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Back Firing - Difficult To Start
1995 aero, 4.0 auto AWD. wouldn't start about a month ago and got parked. got around to working on it and it would start and run a couple seconds then just crank and crank, I tossed another edis module on it that i had with no change, tried it without the MAF plugged in, had consistent spark while cranking. fuel pump would prime just fine. after a while I was experimenting around and held the throttle WOT and got a couple coughs.
after a while of cranking and trying different stuff I had began to get a few backfires (and by this time i had the spout and the octane plug out) and I was actually trying to see if i could see backfires out the tail pipe cause i couldn't determine if they were intake or exhaust side, it finally started. it ran really rough and coughed and sputtered and backfired a few times, then after about 30 seconds it smoothed out and started idling like normal.
I took it for a drive and it ran normal, so i shut it off and reinstalled the spout and octane plug and took it for another drive and it ran better (assuming the ign advance is working, so it must not be in limp home mode)
When I first started I pulled codes 114 and 118, ACT sensor out of range and ECT voltage high (Note: when I got it started the gauge didn't show it as being very "warmed up" even though it idled about 30 minutes before I drove it about 10 miles). I am gonna let it cool for the night and see how it starts in the morning, then try pulling codes again...
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Loss Of Power - Stalling - No Codes?
I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Oil Leak From Oil Filter Bolts To Block?
My van is leaking oil from where the oil filter extension bolts to the block. Is it an o-ring or a gasket that needs to be replaced? Any unexpexted upsets that I should expect when fixing this?
View 13 RepliesFord Aerostar :: 1995 - Automatic Transmission Won't Shift Into Overdrive
My 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Loss Of Power - Cylinder Was Dead
3.0 ENGINE - For a year now I could not figure out what was wrong with my van. It has a loss of power low end but seems to run OK at higher speeds. I changed the plugs, wires, cap etc, fuel filter and no difference. I finally broke down and took it to Firestoneto diagnose it. The guy told me #5 plug was foul and had oil on in, said it is possibly the rings. They did not charge me but they also did not do a thorough check either. They did not check the compression in the cylinder or other spark plugs.
Spoke to a guy at the auto part store and asked what I could do. He said change the oil and add a can of restore. Also said to put a anti foul adapter in first and then the new plug, the adapter would keep the oil from fouling the new plug.
I got the oil change and added the restor. Drove it for a while and took the plug out myself, its the 2nd one in on the drivers side. The plug was nasty looking. Put the new plug in and started it up. I can see that there is spark going to the new plug but putting the wire on and off made no difference in how the engine ran, like the cylinder was dead. I took the plug out of the adapter and put it back in, still nothing, I took the plug back out and there was no oil or smell of gas. Fuel injector not working? You would think there would be some combustion with the new plug.
A year ago the problem started where the van would run great one day then crappy the next. Sometimes it would run a few days great(like new) then a few days crappy. After a month or so it just ran crappy and basically has ran the same for a year now. I notice the A/C puts a load on the engine and the A/C clutch will click on and off every few second when the van is in gear but not when the van is in park or neutral. A/C is not low and works fine when driving, very cold. I normally turn the A/C off during take off because it takes off much slower with the A/C running.
The van shows some white smoke when I rev it up real good when I first start it but it does not show any smoke when idle and while driving.
Ford Aerostar :: 1995 - Cranks But Won't Run - No Fuel Pump Power
My issue. 95 short Aerostar, Vulcan engine, A4LD trans. Just got it last week. Bought a new trans and when I went to pull the van into the shop, it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't run. First thing I checked is fuel pressure, got zero. Pulled the kick panel and found the inertia switch, but the harness for the switch is getting 1.8 volts with the key in "ON" and the same with it in "START". IIRC it should be zero in RUN after a second or two (if the engine isn't actually running, that is), and 14 in START.
Checked all fuses in the panel by the steering column, they're good, and switched around the 3 relays by the battery. No good and I don't hear the FP relay when I turn the key. For now I'll run wires directly from the battery to the pump, just til I get the trans done, but it needs to be fixed anyway because I plan to make this van a DD. Here are my questions:
-Is there a second fuse panel I didn't find?
-Could this be a computer issue? If it is, would the computer fuse be blown?