Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Cold Crank No Start
I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
View 2 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Just Crank When Try To Start Cold
So back ground is as such. Truck started fine before I replaced the hpop with t500 and did the driven diesel regulated return. I have double checked everything is plugged in. Now when I try to start it cold it will just crank. Yes I get smoke and oil pressure both places. If I give it a shot of ether it will start right up and run fine all day. What am I missing? Yes I know ether bad.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 - Long Crank Even Plugged In
Little background- this is my first winter in a diesel truck. When I purchased it- it had 4 glow plug codes. Everyone around me just told me to plug it in and fix it later, that if I plugged it in, glow plugs don't matter much.
Had hard starts all last week with temps down to -20, turns out my block heater wasn't turning on due to a bad cord. Replaced cord end today. Let the oil temp get up to around 60F according to torque pro.
Still had a long crank despite warmer oil (15ish outside). Batteries dip to around 10V when plugs are on, then cranks at around 11V. Lots of white smoke which I know is normal.
I still had to fight with it a little bit to get it to start, as soon as she was actually going- runs flawlessly, no lope, no smoke. Runs and drives flawlessly. If I turn it off, she fires right back up instantly every time without hesitation, until she cools off again.
From what I'm seeing I'm thinking my batteries are fine, and my starter is probably fine. Are glow plugs making this big of a difference even though the truck is plugged in?
Truck has 0 codes when warm, 0 blow by, drives fantastic, Just under 300k miles. The only thing I'm thinking of is the glow plugs need swapped. I have a set of ZD11s sitting in the truck waiting for a warm day.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Repair Of High Oil Use And Long Crank?
Parts came from Riffraft Diesel Performance. A set of "o" rings for the injectors. High flow CVD fittings for the fuel lines. Turbo rebuild kit. (its got 210,000+ miles) Anti Surge compressor wheel.(ok its not part of the oil problem)
Photos to come. I will take during the rebuild.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 E350 - Long Crank Before Starting
I have a 2001 E-350 w/7.3. When I start the truck first thing or when engine is cooled down it starts fine. I checked the high pressure pump pressure and it is 500 - 600 psi start up great. But when engine warms and try to start it it has long crank before starting. I checked pressure and it is between 425 to0 450 and takes awhile for it to get to 500 or better. Is this a cause of the high pressure oil pump ? I changed the oil and still does same thing. Also I noticed that after engine is hot and I try to start it, while cranking the engine the oil gauge does not move. I don't know if it supposed to when you crank it or not. I thought on other 7.3's I've worked on that the gauge builds up pressure....
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: CEL On - Long Crank / Truck Starts Losing Power And Eventually Died
On the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Running Rich / Crank Very Long Time Before It Starts
I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Studder When Cold After Sitting For Long Period
I think I'm going to buy a late 99 CCLB six speed manual truck that's probably been sitting all of a year, maybe longer. Prior to being parked the truck ran flawless. 6 months after parking it he decided to sell it and when driving it, it has a miss when its cold and blows a little white smoke when accelerating. Appears to clear off and run normal after its warm. So he decided to investigate it and re-o-ringed the injectors and checked other things out.
He's determined he thinks it has a weak hpop. Not sure I'm sold on this. Fast forward six months and now I'm pretty sure I'm going to buy it. Drove it yesterday and same thing, first 4 or 5 miles kinda studders or misses but after that runs smooth and has no issue. No longer blows white smoke at all or anything. Obviously the fuel is old as hell, other than that what is everyone's thoughts?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Crank When Cold / HPOP Is Losing Prime
6.0 has had dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced and still has a long crank when cold. The kicker is that it doesn't happen when the truck is parked nose up in the driveway. It only happens if the truck is level or back into the driveway. I suspect it's that the HPOP is losing prime from somewhere.
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Crank Time And Starts After Sitting And Cold
The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 - Misfire When Cold / Lost Oil And Long Cranking
I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor. I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck there are injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when Cold but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go with a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went.
I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went. So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal.
The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Not Starting When Cold / Would Not Crank Up
I had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Extended Cold Crank - Run Little Rough?
For a long time I have been noticing extended cold cranks as compared to my dad's truck which has 50k less miles. Hasn't been much of a big deal until lately the crank has been getting longer to the point where it is noticeable and bothers me.
When the truck finally fires (10-15 seconds) it will sit and idle no problem, maybe a little rough, but that's about it. It will also run a little rough if you start driving it right away but will smooth out fairly quickly. When it first starts it is usually accompanied by a small puff of white smoke.
As a quick run down it has had the injector o-rings, glow plugs and UVCHs replaced about 36k ago. I can verify it isn't the glow plugs or the harness because it would start reliably down to -25 without being plugged in.
My thought is the injectors are just nearing the end of their useful lives (248k). Does this make sense?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Long Start After Sitting For 8 Days?
After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Cough / Sputter For A Few Minutes With No Power After Long Crank
So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Harder To Start After Long Cranking
Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 F350 - Intermittent Long Crank When Hot
2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Crank To Start - Setting Code 2285?
Long crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
View 1 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Long Crank Time To Start After Oil Rail Removal
Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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