Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Under Hard Acceleration In 3rd - 5th Car Will Jump And Jerk
I just recently bought a 2001 Jetta with the 1.8t (AWD) because it had low mileage and a reasonable price. I've never owned a VW before so I know very little about them in general. This is my second vehicle with a turbo, my first was a Saab 93.
When I purchased the car it had the check engine light on and the codes were Vehicle Speed Sensor and Secondary Air Injection Pump. I was able to get it to stop throwing those codes just by cleaning off the components and reconnecting them. The only predominant problem I've been experiencing is that under hard acceleration in 3rd-5th the car will jump and jerk. Its almost like the car isn't getting enough fuel/air but I'm not entirely sure if that's an accurate diagnosis. I've ruled out transmission issues because there are no problems when driving at a slow-normal acceleration. Any insight on where I should begin to fix this issue would be welcomed because I feel as if my motor mounts will break due the force of the jerking.
My last issue has to do with what happened yesterday. My check engine light came back on randomly when I cranked my car. I had no issues the previous day (besides the aforementioned "jerking) so it seemed odd but what really worried me was when I started driving. Whenever I would release the accelerator the car would slow down suddenly as if I applied the brake. The problem continued throughout the day until I got the codes checked and they read Vehicle Speed Sensor (which I've seen has numerous issues from the factory installation) and the Bank 1 O2 sensor. Today I started my car and the check engine light wasn't on.
My car drove like normal (still the hard acceleration jerking but no dramatic deceleration when I release the accelerator). Now to my question, can an O2 sensor cause a problem like this? Maybe the MAF is bad? Not even sure if this vehicle will throw a code for the MAF ...
Camry :: 2007 SE 4 Cyl - Car Seems To Lag Under Hard Acceleration
I have a 2007 Camry SE 4 cyl. Sometimes under hard acceleration the car seems to lag. I have about 64K miles on the car.
When is it recommended to have a spark plug replacement? Will a tune-up work to liven up the car a little better?
Camry :: 2007 LE V6 - Vibration During Acceleration
I have an 07 LE V6 with 76,000 miles. I am lowered on coilovers and have 20 inch wheels. so i have a small vibration while normal acceleration between 10-20 mph once i go past 20 mph it goes away. If I am accelerating heavy I feel the front vibrating all the way up until i let go of the gas. i can feel the pedal and steering wheel a lot and the whole car vibrates kinda hard.
I got new tires and replaced the pass side axle already. at first i thought it was the axle since the boot was leaking and i heard the clicking noise. I've even tried putting my stock wheels back on n i still feel it. I am going to lift the car up and try to find whats going on and what to look for under the car.
Lexus RC F 2015+ :: Tires Jump And Shake For Half A Second Before Car Has Even Acceleration
On rapid acceleration from standing start-- RC- F does not have a smooth transition. Tires jump and shake for half a second before car has even acceleration. Even with traction control turned off this happens. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT ????
View 14 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Turbo Boost Will Jump To 10 PSI At Moderate Acceleration
I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
View 2 RepliesCamry :: 2007 SE V6 - Noise Heard Under Moderate To Hard Acceleration
I have a 2007 Camry SE V6. Under moderate to hard acceleration, it sounds like a deep throaty sound coming from where the intake/throttle body is located, almost as if I have a SRI, but I do not. I checked for anything loose, hoses, airbox, etc. Then checked the intake resonator below and to the left of the battery, all seemed normal. Everything seems normal! Only happens when I push the accelerator a little more than usual, for example, when I go on the highway.
View 6 RepliesCamry :: 2007 - Sound When Engine Is On Acceleration And Crosses 2000 Rpm
I am having camry 2007 with 100 k.miles running. When engine crosses 2000 rpm, I can hear a tik tik sound from engine. This sound is not coming when engine is cold, and also when the engine is on acceleration.
I have checked alternator and A/C bearing. It's OK. I have also replaced timing chain tensioner.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Engine Would Jump Around Between 200 - 800 Rpm When Idling
I have a 2009 with 45,000 miles. It has been idling goofy for a while. Last winter when it was cold it the engine when first started would jump around between 200 - 800rpm when idling. I went and had the fuel system cleaned. It wasn't noticeable when it was warm out and it did not jump around as dramatically on cold starts. Lately it started bouncing on every start from 400rpm-800rpm. It drives fine, just idles bouncy. The other night it lost power while driving. The engine was running but when the accelerator was pushed it would not speed up. It was limping along at 20mph and the engine light on the dash turned on. After sitting for little bit, the engine light was off and drove normally again. I have an apt. for the dealer to look at it next week, but of course I will not be able to recreate the event and there are no error codes.
View 1 RepliesSaturn - Ion :: 2007 - New Battery But Still Need To Jump Start
I was recently left stranded in a mall parking lot by my 2007 Saturn Ion when it wouldn't start. After getting a jump from roadside assistance, I was told the battery needed to be replaced. I thought nothing of it since its a 2007 and has been driven between Virginia and Pennsylvania for the past four years fairly regularly. After a new battery was installed Sunday afternoon and the car started perfectly and was driven around all day Monday, I was shocked when I was once again left stranded in the parking lot at work Tuesday afternoon, again with a car that wouldn't start at all (there was no "clicking" either). The keys would get stuck in the ignition and I'd have to remove them by pushing the tiny button under the steering wheel. The new battery was tested again at the shop and they found nothing wrong with it and couldn't explain why it wouldn't start at all the previous afternoon but started and ran fine two days prior.
View 4 RepliesCamry :: Little Lurch And Small Jump In Rpms With Heat On
I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Camry with around 108,000 miles. The other day, with the heating on, I felt it little lurch as well as a small jump in rpms at times while rolling on idle. This seemed to occur right after a hissing sound stopped after it sounded, pretty quietly, from the rear of the car for a couple seconds. To me it seems like the kind of a lurch I sometimes get when turning off the AC, which makes sense because the AC turning off reduces strain on the engine.
It's definitely not some really bad problem and no lights are on, but something I'm a little worried about nonetheless.
Lexus GS 2006-11 :: 2007 GS450H Won't Start Even With Jump
I got in the car to start it and everything looked dead. After everything appearing out (no lights in the cabin/dash) and trying it a few times, once (this is the weird part) it gave me the "no key detected" (I had the key of course) and I saw the ignition button light flash red. I needed to be somewhere and replaced my fob battery while out (I knew that was a longshot). When I came back, I tried again and never got anything.
My lights were on the parking light postilion (I must not have twisted all the way), and I hadn't driven the car the previous day, so maybe that drained the battery (though I would have thought I would have noticed the lights were on, as I went through the garage a few times). Wipers were not off either, but that likely doesn't matter.
So I tried to jump it with a Sequoia (12 V in the trunk - used my physical key to open the trunk for the first time). Nothing. As in no electrical activity at all. Repeated process with a jumper unit. Again, I never got any sign of power at all. What replaceable fuse might be worth trying. It would have to be one that knocked everything out.
Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Dead Battery Won't Jump Start
I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
Camry :: Jump Start Cables Wired Incorrectly And Now Car Won't Crank Or Turn Over
As the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
Toyota - Camry :: 2001 Will No Longer Start After Dead Battery And Jump
My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
View 5 RepliesCamry :: When The Gas Pedal Is Pressed - No Acceleration
'97 Toyota Solara Convertible V6. Car starts fine, idles good. However, NO acceleration. When the gas pedal is pressed RPM gage moves up to 1200 from 1000 RPM. Car will move up to 5 mph. Engine lite is on full time. A/C if fine, radio is fine, all headlights fine, good dash lights. Have not checked the fuses because I assume to get this far they must be good.
View 1 RepliesCamry :: Whirring Sound Upon Acceleration
I recently took my 05 camry 3.0 v6 110k mi in for a tune up and timing belt service. When I got my car back it was making a whirring sound upon acceleration. The sound is only there at idle and the start of acceleration, it goes away (or I can't hear it) once I get up to around 2k rpm. Also, I noticed that the car felt like it was missing under light acceleration. It was most noticeable with the car on cruise control and going up a slight grade on the interstate. It would just feel like the power was cut off for a split second.
So I took the car back in. Not sure what was done to it because I was out of town but it was returned to me still making the whirring noise but the missing feeling seems to be mostly resolved. I can't say for sure but it felt like it missed a few times after I got it back but nothing like it was before.
My car was perfect before the service/tune up. From searching around all I could come up with was that maybe the timing belt needs to break in or might be too tight or loose .
Here is a list of what all was replaced
Alternator belt
A/C belt
Power steering belt
Timing component kit
Water pump
Spark Plugs & spark plug boots
PCV valve
Intake manifold gasket
Camry :: 2005 Hesitates On Acceleration
I just bought an 05 Camry with 40k miles. Runs great. Decided I'd have a tranny flush and coolant flush done. Oil was done recently. A couple hundred miles later and today I've got a noticeable hesitation when accelerating. It's not a herky jerky stutter, but a smooth, consistent like a loss of power like I'm quickly letting my foot off and back on the accelerator. Doesn't seem to do it when not in gear, just under acceleration. Checked trsnny fluid and it's ok and full.
View 9 RepliesCamry :: 2002 XLE - Hesitation At Low Acceleration
I have a 2002 Camry xle v4. It has a hesitation at low acceleration. I've replaced EVERYTHING: Mass Flow Sensor, 2 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. This past weekend I changed the plugs again with a better quality than before and the hesitation went away....for 2 days! Now its back.
View 5 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: High RPM / No Acceleration
My 2011 6-speed automatic AWD santa fe was in a front end collision (T-boned a car that pulled out into the road then stopped) but was still drivable, just bumper damage. About a week later while waiting on the front bumper to come in, the starter died mechanically (of course, no relation, according to the shop and insurance adjuster since even though the starter is about 12" behind the point of impact, there was no undercarriage damage, ie, not related to accident). So when they got the part in, they replaced the bumper and the starter.
When I picked up the car from the shop, the check engine light came on when I got out on the road. On the road, the car had almost no acceleration. The engine RPM went up, almost to 7k but the car was moving slowly. This was on the on-ramp of the freeway and very disconcerting. It did make it up to about 40mph initially and then on the slight incline, took me about 30 seconds to make it to 60mph. I got off the freeway and pulled into an Oreilly auto and had them read the code. It came across as the phantom P200A (something about MAF sensor but usually not a true error in this make/model). I called the dealership, took it back. The guy looked at it while I waited, brought it around, said it was fixed, just had to have a code cleared and the check engine light went out. His experience was simply driving it in first, maybe second gear in the lot. He said it was the ECM, and this was typical as it had the battery disconnected for a couple days, the ECM needed to "relearn" the controls. He said give it a few weeks and it would be fine.
I got it out on the road, no more check engine light, but the acceleration/rev situation was still present. It has been a month, and it hasn't gotten better or worse. I can drive the 6-speed in auto around town, though it shifts higher, around 4k RPM if I am at all accelerating, or on even a slight incline. I can put the pedal to the floor while driving in auto, and it drops out of gear and into neutral, at least the way it feels, revs up, would red-line if i didn't come off the gas, but never accelerates, it acts like it drops into neutral. If I am driving with the car in manual shifting mode and choose where I want it to shift, it shifts fine, doesn't feel like it drops to neutral, however I can floor the pedal and it still only slowly accelerates, especially on an incline. It seems to bog down around 40mph or so, and take forever to get above that. Downshifting manually raises the RPM as expected, but no increase in acceleration.
Now I have a check engine light on again, and am taking the car back to the repair shop this week without clearing the light so maybe they can see something else that may have cleared at the auto part store last time. Basically, I have read multiple causes/symptoms which partially match this, but nothing exactly.
1. Limp home mode on ECM
2. Throttle position sensor
3. MAF sensor (or whatever the 2011 Santa Fe has equivalent)
4. TCM (Transmission Control Module)
There was absolutely nothing wrong with the car before the wreck, then the starter. No shifting/idling issues. I am wondering what a repair shop replacing a bumper and transmission could have done, that would create this problem. The transmission couldn't have died between working fine, won't start, and here, your starter and bumper are fixed but the tranny is FUBAR. I am thinking it absolutely HAS to be a sensor or computer controller of some sort, but not much on the web showing which sensors are which and where they are in a 2011 Santa Fe.
I believe the MAF/throttle body has to be removed to get to the starter (directly below it if I am not mistaken). One last thing, it is an AWD... it was towed from my house to the dealership with all 4 wheels up, as required for a AWD vehicle. If the shop pulled it from the lot to the garage, a few hundred feet at most, with 2 wheels up and 2 down, could that cause all this?