Camry :: 2003 LE 2.4 Engine Groaning Noise When Accelerate Between 1500-2500 RPMs
I have a 2003 Camry 2.4 LE with 120k miles on it. It's been very well taken care of. As of now, here is the maintenance that has been completed at my dealership. By the way, I don't trust dealerships, but I do have one nearby that is actually beyond outstanding (and I know a little about cars):
- Regular oil changes, and always with 5W-30
- Radiator flush and thermostat replacement
- Tranny flush
- New front brakes, rear brakes cleaned, and lines flushed.
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Valve cover gasket replaced
- Spark plugs replaced (at around 105k)
So, with this information being provided, here is my current problem. Lately, as I accelerate between 1500-2500 rpms, the engine has a louder than usual (but not too loud) groaning noise. Basically, the engine just sounds a tad louder than normal along with groaning noise. The engine also feels as though it is running kind of "dry" (if that makes any sense).
Now, above 2500 rpms, it's just fine. It's amazing on the highway, but I feel as though it has slightly lost acceleration in the city. The only issue with the car is the infamous greyish/blue smoke at startup, but that rarely happens and when it does, its a small amount of smoke, and it has never affected it's performance or gas mileage. Another thing is that I had to have that dreaded oil splash guard removed, because apparently the timing chain punctured it and it was about to fall off.
This problem has been recent within the last month. Just before this, the car has been on a roundtrip to Tucson from Tulsa, and Amarillo twice, complete with 32+mpg on the highway! So, what's wrong? Serptentine belt? PCV valve? Cam or something underneath the valve cover?
Honda - Accord :: Idle Is Fine Until Engine Warms Up, Then Fluctuates Between 1500 To 2500 RPMs
!995 honda accord, 5 speed. Idle is fine until the engine warms up, then fluctuates between 1500 to 2500 rpms. The idle control valve was cleaned- no change. Valve was also replaced -also with no change. Put old valve back on. Computer was disconnected after cleaning and also after each valve change.Would the next step be to remove and clean the fast idle thermo sensor? Also how do you check the coolant lines coming in. Anything else I would need to check, clean or replace.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Truck Is Jumping From 1500 To About 2500 - 2600 RPMs
So my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
View 4 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - Code P0121 / Idle Surging Between 1500 - 2500 Rpm
I have a 2002 Accent 1.6L 72K miles, idle surging between 1500 - 2500 rpm after stopping from 50 mph, (with Code P0121) replaced TPS - No Luck . I reset the DTS error codes, ran it with a new TPS and same exact problem, Code P0121 came back, and surging continued, this happens when I decelerate from high speed- 50 mph or so and it will not go to normal idle, surges between 1500 and 2500 rpm when in park.
If I give the throttle pedal a good kick, the problem goes away, and it idles fine, nice and smooth and at normal rpm, the DTS code will clear, and stays cleared, mil light goes out. It almost seems like something is sticking, I know its not the throttle itself because when I do a live data, the TPS shows "0", if I manually push the throttle shaft closed at the throttle body, it is fully seated shut, so I know its not a sticking cable or anything. Can a sticking MAF sensor cause this? Maybe what I'll try tomorrow is rapping the throttle body with a rubber mallet while its surging, maybe something is not returning to its normal position in there.
Accent RB (2012+) :: Rattling Noise At Just Over 1500 RPMs
I've got a 2012 GLS manual with about 400 miles that now has a noise that concerns me. At just over 1500 rpms there is a rattling noise that sounds like its coming from the rear and underneath the vehicle. It sounds like metal vibrating. I think it could be the exhaust but I am not sure. It didn't do it on the test drive and it is fairly intermittent.
What it could be and if it might be normal? Should I take it in and get it checked out or would that be a waste of time?
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Clanging Noise At Low RPMs (1200 - 1500)
I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - CEL Blinking / Car Started Stuttering And Idle Was Rough
I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
View 4 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Idle Down And Won't Get Above 2300 - 2500 RPMs?
I bought a 2006 F-350 4WD Lariat SRW with a little over 200,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run perfectly, except when pulling a load (9,000-10,000 lbs) down the interstate/highway. Sometimes, when pulling above 65-70 mph for an extended period of time (45 minutes to an hour) the truck will all of a sudden idle down and won't get above 2300-2500 RPMs (even if you put it in neutral and floor it). It's not enough to shut it down, but it won't let the truck accelerate as fast as normal. Killing the truck and cranking it back makes it go back to running normal for a little while, but the periods of it acting up get shorter after each killing and restarting. I took it to the Ford place while it was acting up, and they thought it was a turbo problem. They cleaned the turbo and said everything looked fine, but the same problem arose after leaving the shop. They've been stumped at 3 different Ford shops, but one said there's a 95% chance a new turbo would fix the problem. What might be wrong?
View 8 RepliesChrysler - Sebring :: 2005 Engine Cuts Out / Cannot Go Above 2500 RPMs
I have a Chrysler Sebring 2005Engine cuts out at 2500 spurts stutters can't go above 35 mph...But still runs... No cruise available will not come on.. Engine light on... Which I guess from what I read is normal In "limp mode" Got it home.. Shut it off.. Starts back up.. I'm thinking cam/crank shaft sensor? Both of those are new.. And an ECM all from a prior problem.. Or fuel pump.?? Not enough pressure to keep up with demand..
View 4 RepliesTiguan :: Engine Noise Between 2000 And 2500 RPMs When Accelerate
When I accelerate (particularly during heavy throttle) I hear a sound that sounds like a diesel engine between 2000 and 2500 rpm's. It almost sounds raspy in nature.
View 24 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: High Engine Idle Speed - 2500 RPMs
Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
Camry :: 2003 KE - Whistling Sound From Engine Compartment At Acceleration After 2500 Rpms
I have an 03 Camry LE with 80,000 miles I do all the maintenance myself it has had the alternator replaced once at around 40,000 miles. The problem that just started is a whistling sound that ONLY is audible after 2500 rpm at acceleration. When the car is in park no matter how much I revive the engine I can not get it to make the whistle sound it ONLY can be heard at acceleration after 2500 rpms.
Also once I cease to accelerate it goes away while I'm driving there is NO Whistling. I've read that it could be the alternator so I had it checked twice on the car and it checked out good it passed all tests. I've removed the belt and spun the pulley to listen for bad bearing but to me sounded fine. I've removed the throttle body boot and checked for cracks an found nothing also cleaned throttle body (not that it needed it) while I had it off.
Also checked air box and nothing. The only thing I've done recently was take out cabin air filter to clean and replaced it but there was no problem with that. What's puzzling is that it ONLY occurs at acceleration after 2500 rpms then stops after acceleration.
Golf IV R32 :: Blinking Engine Check Light When Go Past 2500 - 3000 RPMs
I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Engine Vibration And Noise When Accelerating At Around 2500 - 3000 RPMs
I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
Honda - Accord :: 2005 - Engine Lurches / Stutters And Oscillates At 2500 RPMs
Yesterday as I crawled my way through heavy traffic on my drive home from work, my car started lurching unexpectedly. When I let up on the gas, the lurching subsided. I was able to recreate the behavior multiple times on my drive home, as well as while parked in my driveway. As the RPM exceeded 2500 the engine would lose oomph/power and the RPM would start stuttering/oscillating between ~2500 and ~2800 RPM. The behavior was identical regardless of which gear I was in (D1, D2, D3, D, or N), regardless of my speed, and regardless of how aggressively I was pressing the accelerator pedal. Every time the RPM hit 2500, the engine freaked out.
This morning, it did NOT happen when I tested it briefly. I was able to rev up to 3500-4000 RPM without any issues. I did read a case online in which someone experienced a similar issue that only manifested after the engine had been running a while. My car has ~173k miles on it, and this is its first engine issue. What might be causing this?
Video attached; also located here: [URL] ....
Honda - Prelude :: 1984 - Will Only Stay Running If Engine Is Kept At 2500 RPMs Or Higher
1984 prelude...1.8l .... I have posted previously on this vehicle and I have had some "success". The car will run with the support of starting fluid but will only stay running if the engine is kept at 2500 rpms or higher. If you let off the gas, it will bog out and die. Starting it requires another shot of starting fluid and a foot on the gas.
View 14 RepliesAccent RB (2012+) :: Engine Vibration Starting At 3000 RPMs And Stopped Around 3100 RPMs
At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...
Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 F350 5.4 - Free Rev Over 2500 RPMs - Engine Or Trans?
Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Engine Stuttering Between 20 - 50 Mph
2008 elantra, 57,500 miles (~92,500 kilometers)
While lightly accelerating or maintaining speed anywhere in the 20-50mph (30-80kph) range there's a slight jumpy or stuttering feeling. It feels like it's coming from the engine. It's not violent. Passengers don't notice. But it definitely doesn't feel right. It's kind of like a small succession of shakes that I can feel through the pedal. I've been trying to play with it to see when it does it. If you accelerate quickly through this range it won't do it and it actually feels really smooth. Outside of this range is also pretty smooth regardless of how quickly you accelerate. However if you accelerate slowly or just maintain speed or let your foot off the gas and lightly resume acceleration at any point in this range, the stuttering intermittently happens.
This is pretty annoying as 20-50mph is the speed I'm driving at most of the time (city/suburban driving).