Eclipse - Mitsubishi :: 2000 - Terminals For Battery Charging Rusted Out?

I acquired a 2000 Eclipse from a friend of mine. Within 24 hours of having the car, it died, and I got a jump. Went to get the battery tested, the charge was around 55% and the guy told me that he could not test the alternator because the battery tested bad, but he got out a multimeter and told me that it was only outputting around 12v, and said that was all he could do.

The battery was brand new (replaced just before I got the car), and the alternator was replaced in January or February according to the previous owner.

I've been able to take the battery out and throw it on a charger, but for what it's worth the terminals on the car are in very poor shape. Rusted out and seem very "finicky", even if they are installed nice and tight, sometimes it still won't supply power to the car and I have to adjust them. Obviously this might indicate that replacing the terminals would solve my issues, however, the alternator output should test fine then, yes?

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Golf V R32 :: Where Are Battery Terminals

I tried to jump start a friend's car today and the two of us could not find the "+" and "-" terminals to connect the jumper cables to. I found the battery, under a plate fastened with about 12 allen bolts (so they can't be under there).

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Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Corrosion Around Terminals On Battery

So, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.

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Passat (B6) :: Multi Port Battery Terminals - Running Fog Light And Stereo Setup

Running my fog light setup and stereo make me what to get something like this with all of the wires in the battery.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Battery Cable Terminals On Passenger Side Broke?

The terminal (+) on the passenger side battery broke, and I see is a 1 piece cable and terminal all together.

Where to get that cable on how create a new one?

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Volvo :: No Power Coming From Alternator / Not Charging

About 5 months ago had a friend who I had to boost a bunch cause he kept leaving his lights on. his alternator was dead after a while and he borrowed my battery to get him to the service station. two weeks later my battery died. I bought a new battery from advance.

everything went fine other than a small headlight/tail issue that's been with the car since I bought it but never seemed to present itself other than one tail light never working and one headlight not working.

about 2 weeks ago i stopped at a filling station and my car wouldn't start.

battery checked good, alternator was bad. got a used alternator off of another volvo i own (same kind, reman off of a 1989 740GL) at first the alternator was reading low at 11.5 volts, i decided to chance it and it failed me on the highway, went back with a fresh battery the next day and drove it home. now I have since had the alternator at two places, at some old timer electro mechanic and he said it read 14.5...didn't trust him....went to the new autozone and they tested it as PASS at 14+.... put the alternator back on the car and it's still not charging.

the car runs fine other than it ain't charging. the alternator failure light is on, along with the two brake lights and bulb failure (which is to be expected because of particular system construction).

is there a fuseable link that might be burnt through? is there any other main voltage lines or regulators I should look for? main fuses?

1987 Volvo 740GLE 400,xxx miles. New Battery, 2003 Reman'd Alternator, 2004/5 replaced postive terminal and wire, countless number of small electrical flaws.

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Volvo :: 1989 - Get Spark / Pump Run But Won't Start

OK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).

I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.

Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.

Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.

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Volvo :: 740 Not Shifting Into 4th Gear - Changed Solenoid And OD Relay

I just had my solenoid changed and I changed the OD relay and my car still doesn't shift into 4th gear. Could the garage have put the solenoid on backwards? my switch on the shifter was replaced with a toggle switch from autozone. My volvo has 230K miles and it is a 1990.

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Volvo :: 1989 740 Wagon Fires But Will Not Start / Engine Instantly Died

I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.

I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.

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Volvo :: 1989 740 Turbo Wagon Won't Start - No Noise From Fuel Pump

I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.

I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.

I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.

I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.

This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.

Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.

Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.

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Volvo :: 1989 740GL Blower Motor Doesn't Work / Keeps Blowing Fuses

My 1989 740GL has a blower motor that doesn't work; I looked into it and discovered a blown 30A fuse. So I replaced fuse and guess what? "POP"! No luck... It keeps blowing them, so I really haven't looked that far into it, but where I might start?

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Prius (Gen 2) :: After Replacement 12V Battery Is Not Charging

I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.

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Prius (Gen 1) :: Changed The Battery In Fob But It Won't Lock The Car

I have a problem with my central locking, I changed the battery in the fob but it won't lock the car, if I lock with the key the fob will unlock the car. When I press the lock button there is a clunk-clunk as if the central locking is working and I can hear the noise in the doors and the boot but nothing happens. The battery was totally flat and I haven't been using the fob for a long time but I seem to recall it used to lock.

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Prius (Gen 1) :: Manually Charging HV / Traction Battery?

I don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).

My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.

After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.

So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.

We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.

We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.

My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.

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Prius (Gen 2) :: Charging Of Battery Cells By Running The Car Is Possible?

Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.

Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.

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Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 - Battery Not Charging / Mileage Low

Have a 2009 with 25K on it, purchased in April when they were practically giving them away. Recently did an oil change and got snow tires, then left my husband in car with heat on for 20+ minutes, and now mileage is in the 30's and the battery isn't charging itself or regenerating. What could be going on?

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Prius (Gen 2) :: 2004 - MFD Not Showing Battery Charging

I have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.

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Prius (Gen 2) :: Battery Only Charging Downhill And Braking

Right now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?

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Prius (2004-09) :: Engine On But Battery Not Charging?

Recently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?

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