Ford - Focus :: 2002 Trying To Stall Out In Cold Weather
I recently installed a cold sensor to my 2002 ford focus due to it trying to stall out in cold weather. It is still trying to stall out even with the cold sensor what else could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesFord - Focus :: 2008 - Heat Goes Cold While Idling
I have a 2008 Ford Focus. The heat in my car stays hot while I am driving but when I stop at a light or slow down the heat goes very cool.
View 1 RepliesFord - Focus :: Stalls In The Cold Until Engine Thoroughly Warmed Up
I have a question about my 2000 Ford Focus. It has problems in the cold. When the air temperature is below -5 or so, after driving a short while (before the engine is up to temperature) if you come to a stop and the the engine go to idle it will stall. It does this while the car is still in motion (as it is a manual) and you aren't in gear coming to a stop light.
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2.8L Won't Start Unless Hold Accelerator
I've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
Ford - Focus :: AC Will Turn Off And Warm Air Enters Car For 1-3 Minutes Then Returns To Normal Cold Air
I have a '12 Focus and for no apparent reason the A/C will turn off and warm air enters the car for 1-3 minutes and then returns to normal cold A/C air. It doesn't matter if it's on "max A/C" which will circulate the air inside the car or just the coldest setting on the A/C, high fan, low fan, it just happens. What usually happens is that I'm driving 40 or 45, then have to slow down (stoplight, etc.) and speed up again, during the slow down is when the A/C turns off and warm air enters the car. As soon as I'm driving 45 again for a minute it usually kicks back to cold air. OR, while driving on the freeway at 60 - 70mph after about 15-20 minutes it all of a sudden stops cooling and I get warm air in the car. It's been checked by 2 different dealers already 4 times and they never found anything wrong with the A/C System. It did have an actual leak a few weeks ago and that got repaired but it still has this mysterious behavior.
View 5 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - How Long Do Batteries Hold Up
About how long do batteries hold up in this truck? I ask because in my 06 6.0 it was an annual event 2 batteries and an alternator.
View 14 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2003 - At Start Up Won't Hold A Steady Idle
2003 Ford Escape V6 ... So . . . my car runs fine almost all the time and I love it. But every couple of weeks when I start her up she won't hold a steady idle. Unless I hold my foot on the accelerator pedal she dies right out. I have had to limp home as she dies at each stop light. I have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer but it never seems to work. On the drive home, there will be episodes of misfiring after which the computer will reset itself. (The dash instruments go to zero and then back into normal range while I am driving down the road!) After a couple of resets, the car drives fine the rest of the way and continues fine for a couple of weeks (except for some misfiring at idle).
And at cruising speed there is a chatter behind the dash which sounds like its from the computer--very intermittent and only at around 45-60 mph--it only lasts a few seconds and goes away when I changed speed. The car is great in every other way after 104,000 miles. In the past 12 months, I have changed the thermostat, the plugs, the PCV, the fuel filter, and the air filter. A year ago both Brake Sensor rings cracked so I replaced both CV shafts. The crankshaft position sensor code came on twice and I replaced it twice. I do all my own work but I am stuck in a rut right now.
Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - Just Crank / No Start Unless Hold The Gas Pedal To Floor
I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Lifter Knock At Start Up / Throttle Hold Over 3k?
I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
View 4 RepliesFord - Focus :: 2006 SE - Gas Pedal Stuck
I have a Ford Focus 2006 and when the weather is cool or cold when I start my car the gas pedal is stuck. I have to forcefully pump it several times before it will loosen and depress. I couple of times it froze will I was driving the car in traffic. Just recently I accidently hit the course control button and when I took it out of course control the gas pedal was frozen.
View 1 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Lot Of Smoke On Cold Start
I have a 2006 F350 6.0 diesel with 110K miles. it takes me about 10 tries to get the engine to start. When it finally starts there is a lot of smoke and engine runs really bad. This isn't the case if I have the engine warmer plugged in. After warm up the engine runs pretty good.
My engine light comes on sometimes and will go out other times. I have tried sever attempts at adding injector cleaner with no results. Am weary about taking it to Ford for an analysis. Where to start with repairs? I did take it to Orielly auto and had the engine checked on their scanner. Approximately two pages of possible repairs come up.
Azera TG (2006-11) :: Cannot Hold Alignment
I purchased my Azera 5 years ago and it now has 44,xxx miles in it. The car runs well and everything works on it but I am now on my second set of tires!
The car came with Michelin tires and at about 25k they were extremely noisy. Investigation revealed the tires were scalloped and not wearing properly. At that point I had an alignment done. At 35k I had the alignment checked and found that it was 'out' and had the alignment done again.
At 43k I replaced the tires with Continentil Tires and the tires were balanced and the alignment was done. This alignment was 'guaranteed' for 6 months and I returned prior to the 6 month expiration for an alignment check and found it was 'out' and the shop corected the alignment. This correction was needed after only 1,000 mi!!
So here I am - 6 yrs of use with 44k accumulated and 4 alignments
The tire shop is well regarded in the area so I think their work is competent and we have reasonably good streets and we have not hit any curbs so where does the problem lie?
The Sonata (v-6) that I had before was only aligned once when new tires were installed and the Mercedes cars I owned before that I don't think were ever aligned.
Ford - Focus :: 2006 - Secondary Air Pump Failure
I have a PZEV (Partial zero emission vehicle) 2006 Focus. Recently, my car threw the check engine light. Looked at the two codes, found out it was for the secondary air system. I pulled the car apart, removed the pump, checked that the pump was indeed receiving 12v (checked with a multimeter) with ignition-on-engine-off. I couldn't feel, or hear, the pump spinning. Figuring it was the source of the problem (as opposed to a clogged hose), I replaced the relay, thinking that perhaps it was on its dying leg. That didn't work. I next replaced the pump, which also didn't work. I can't even hear or feel the new pump running with ignition-on-engine-off.
I "reset" the codes, or so I thought, by disconnecting my battery for quite a few minutes. During the first startup, the check engine light isn't on. Starting up again though later in the day, the light returns. The engine does run a bit rough when cold without the pump malfunctioning for the first few brief moments.
Is the pump supposed to be powered and running for the entire time ignition-on-engine-off (I assume so since it is receiving 12v). How loud should these guys be? I would have thought I would be able to feel the motor spinning or hear something....
Ford - Focus :: 2004 - Won't Start Intermittently
Occasionally my 2004 Ford Focus will not start. I put in the keys and turn them. The lights and radio fire up and there is a click, but the engine won't turn over. To resolve this, I remove the key, open the hood, loosen the battery cable on the positive terminal, wiggle the cable around, and then tighten it back down. I then go back in the car and turn the key. The engine starts. Is there a bad connection somewhere? Should I replace the battery cable?
Long version of the problem: I've been having these problems intermittently for almost a year now. After the first or second time I had the car towed to a local shop. They couldn't figure out what the problem was because the car was starting just fine at the shop. The mechanic said that some of the cables might have shifted around in the towing process. So I tossed an adjustable wrench in the glove box in preparation for the next time. The next day, it happened again. Through some quick trial and error, I narrowed down the problem to be the positive battery cable (or something that's connected to it).
Volvo :: Accelerator Has To Be Hold To Start
Sometimes I have to hold the accelerator the floor and it starts. Sometimes I get a faster than normal cranking speed and no start. When this occurs I can hold my foot to the floor and it will backfire through the intake. After some time of this the car will start.
Here's what I've done so far.
1. Checked timing and timing belt - OK
2. Ignition system check coil, wires, plugs - OK
3. Fuel system pump, injectors, and regulator - OK (Regina fuel system)
4. Checked and changed the relay and the cam sensor - OK
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 - Rough Start And Idle When Engine Cold
Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 RepliesFord - Focus :: 2006 - Brake Auto Applying Intermittently
I have 2006 Ford Focus that was recently in a small rear end crash. The airbags went off. The only damage was a front bumper and hood and plastic grill. The computer had to be reset by Ford dealer for the airbag. Since the accident the front brakes intermittently apply, not enough to slam the car to a stop, but enough to slow it down and limit acceleration. We have replaced the rotors, calipers and front brake lines. Problem still exists. Ford says the computer shows nothing (duh) and my mechanic of 20 years doesn't know what else to do.
View 1 RepliesFord - Focus :: 2003 - Engine Malfunction / Won't Start
I have a 2003 Ford Focus Sedan with 75K miles, bought used from a Ford dealership 3-4 yrs ago with 45K miles.
I spent Saturday driving around doing errands. Late in the day, it wouldn't start up again. This was after about 20 minutes of sitting in a parking lot right after a 10-mile drive. It would turn/crank but not actually turn over. Eventually, I had a tow driver come out, who also gave it a try, and then it made an awful clunking-grinding-crunching sound after a couple seconds of trying to turn. Towed to the local mechanics.
They did some compression tests and tell me that a spark plug is "smashed." They say only a major engine problem could smash a spark plug and recommend just replacing the engine. The alternative would be to take apart the engine to figure out exactly what's wrong, at a labor cost of $800-1,000, but they say there would be a good chance that whatever they find out wouldn't be fixable anyway.
Recent history: oil change about 6 wks ago, no history of oil problems, regular oil changes (at least since I bought it).
Recent problems:
(1) About 2-3 times in the past few months (including Saturday morning the day this happened), my car would sometimes take a bit more turning over to actually start. Those episodes would feel like it was "barely" starting, and then the car would kind of gentle buck for the first 20-30 seconds of driving, then be totally normal and start right up again afterward.
(2) For the past year or so, the speedometer and odometer would intermittently go to zero, usually after a sudden speed or lane change or big cranking of the wheel (e.g., reversing out of a parking spot)...this would last a mile or two then randomly come right back on.
(3) The weekend before my engine wouldn't start, my check-engine light came on while driving on the highway.
This happened to occur during one of those brief zero-speedometer episodes. I took it to the shop, they said it was a sensor issue, and it took nearly $500 to repair.
So....questions:
(1) any of the above history related to current engine problem? My shop says probably not, but I'm not sure what to believe.
(2) Recommend taking the engine apart at this point to diagnose the problem, or just replace the thing?
(3) If replace, get used or refurbished? (Shop recommends latter b/c they say history with used is totally unknown)
(4) Tow it to a different shop for the second opinion? (5) Or, just give up on the car totally and get a new car? I have minimal knowledge of mechanics.
Ford - Focus :: Will Not Start In Heat When Turned Off For A Short While
After two repair shops telling me there is nothing wrong with my car, I'm at a loss. My car is in great condition except when it decides not to start. On hot days, if I am doing several errands I need to worry about if my car will work after the first stop. After driving for a bit, when I turn off my car and return a short while later it will not start. The car will attempt to turn over and the battery works just fine, it just won't start. Also, another issue I think is related and connected to this is that on car trips lasting more than 15 minutes, the air conditioning will stop working. The air will blow but the cool 'conditioning' aspect will fail and I will be stuck with hot air blowing at me. The catch to this is that after waiting 2 hours for a tow, the driver was able to start my car on the first try, thus making the tow unnecessary. Obviously my car is not 'perfect' like the repair shops are telling me....
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