Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Cracked Oil Filter Housing

I'll be back to post the whole situation if the dealer doesn't make right on what I'm going through right now, but wanted to ask as I didn't find much searching, any issue with a cracked oil filter housing? I took car in for 30k service and came back leaking oil. Apparently part is back ordered and may take weeks. I spoke with ECS tuning and they said they don't have their aluminum filter housing yet for this model.

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: Code P0456 - Cracked Fuel Pump Housing

I have a 2006 Sonata with 88,000 miles on it. Currently, and for the past 11 months, the CEL has been on and the code always returned is a p0456, very small evap leak.

I searched for leaks but couldn't find any. I also replaced the purge control valve, but the same p0456 continues to reappear. Of course I also made sure the gas cap was on tight.

I received a coupon from the dealer for a free diagnostic so I took the car in.

The dealer reported the code as p0455, large evap leak, and said the cause was a cracked fuel pump housing. Cost to repair $850. Seems to me the dealer just picked the most costly part to replace, although I can confirm they looked at it because they forgot to screw the access cover back on.

So what I would like to know is how the dealer would have made such a diagnosis? I cleaned and inspected the outside of the pump and saw no crack, but I also understand that the crack may be too small see.

I want to be able to confirm that the dealer's diagnosis is correct, but how can I do that? I have a hand operated vacuum pump and access to shop air to aid in the diagnosis.

I read elsewhere on this site about pressurizing the system and putting soapy water on the area to show bubbles where the leak is, but where would I connect the air hose? And more importantly, what is a safe pressure to use?

Of course tracking down the cause of p0456. I know the charcoal canister could be problem as well, but I'd like to find some way of isolating down the failing component.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Slow Fuel Drip Off The Housing For Fuel Filter On The Engine

I have a very slow fuel drip off the housing for the fuel filter on the engine. Can't see where it's coming from. It started sometime after I changed the filter a couple of months ago.

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Low Pressure Fuel Pump Housing Cracked?

This pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?

Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?

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Ford Excursion :: 2001 - Fuel Filter Housing Leaking

I could smell fuel so I popped the hood to look for a leak. On top of the filter housing cover fuel was puddled in the little nooks and crannies of the black cover and some had leaked over the side into the valley between the heads. Is this a common leak? How in the world did fuel get on top of the cover but not on the hood insulator cover?

Also, just bought this not too long ago and the po said he had just done the fuel filter service on it. The gasket seemed pretty flimsy and weak and didn't really fit the gasket surface. Although I'm used to my cummins powered trucks and they use a o-ring to seal the housing cover. 2001 excursion 7.3

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Cracked Fuel Filter Twice?

Within the last month I've had 2 cracked fuel filters the filter up by the engine...

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Lower Fuel Filter Housing Broke

This past week my wife and I took a short trip and returned on a gravel road. I went to start my truck the next morning and there was a puddle of diesel fuel on the driveway. When I looked under it, I noticed that the tip of the fuel filter housing is gone and is leaking slowly from there. I called the dealer and they would not fix it on warranty, the truck has 20k on it. The service man said he would not turn this into ford. I've had the similar problems with this particular dealer. It's obvious that a protective cover is needed for this. I kept the part and am thinking of sending it to ford.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Fuel Filter Housing Leaking?

I have a 2001 f250 7.3l 4x4 and the fuel filter housing is leaking real bad from either the back or under it. I need to get info on parts that i would need as well.

[URL]....

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Leak Appears To Be Coming From Secondary Fuel Filter Housing

I've got a leak that appears to be coming from the secondary fuel filter housing (the one in the engine compartment)... It's not coming from the filter, but from the side, where there are 4 allen bolts that attach a fitting to the side of the housing...Can I change out the gasket for that piece? I've already tightened the bolts, but the leak persists.

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Cracked Sideview Mirror Housing

How to replace the plastic (painted) part of the sideview mirror? The glass is fine and the mount is fine, but I've clipped something and cracked the painted plastic. Is that replaceable separately? What is the part number?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Cracked Alternator Housing

I wonder how prevalent this problem is with Ford alternators. Sure looks like it was cracked a long time, like maybe from over-tightening. I was planning on having new bearings installed to hopefully take care of a periodic whine. Already replaced the idler pulleys. As much as I dislike rebuilt alternators, looks like I will be getting one.

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Prius (Gen 2) :: 2009 - How To Repair Cracked Housing On Inverter Connector

I have a salvaged 2009 prius. I just found out from my dealer that the connector between the a/c compressor and the synergy drive inverter is cracked and falling apart so it's causing a short. You can't just change the connector so the bill to replace the a/c compressor and the inverter comes to about $6700 and it's not under warranty because it's salvaged.

I an trying to find if there's ways for me to just replace the connector and where I might be able to find such a thing. The other thought I have is to just find some way to create an insulated housing for the existing connector. Maybe use a plastic mold?

What's the best way to go? The connector basically has two parts. One part is attached to the a/c compressor and the other part is attached to the inverter and then you just connect them together as if it's a power extension cable. It's orange in color.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Cooler Housing Cracked?

]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?

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Volvo - XC90 :: Smashed Can Noise When A/C On?

Scenario- Start car, back up, and cut wheel to the left out of the driveway. There is a loud, crushed can noise. Yes, just as if I had run over a can, but didn't. This only happens if the air conditioner is on.

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Volvo - Xc90 :: Brakes And Rotors Need To Be Replaced Much Too Often

I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.

Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.

Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.

I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.

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Volvo :: XC90 - Parking Brake Is Not Working

I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on a 2008 XC90 which has solved the problem I had with them. However, the parking brake is not working. When the old discs came off they did so easily without any resistance and the new ones went on just as easily so as far as I can tell the parking brakes weren't disturbed. The parking brake did come on after 3-5 clicks before this work was completed and now they are not operating after 8 clicks so am at a loss to understand this problem.

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Volvo :: Xc90 Power Steering Failure?

RE: 2007 Volvo XC90 90k miles

Pulled into my driveway last night with the power steering working intermittently for last 5 minute leg of my trip. Woke up this morning with no power steering and sqealing noise coming from engine.

No fluid leak on driveway. Drove to dealer with no power steering. Very hard to turn wheel - even while moving.

Dealer checked and said it was not a fluid issue and that they thought a screw might have fallen out and needed to take apart the rear of the engine (a 5-6 hour job) just to diagnose the problem.

A screw from the steering column in the rear engine?

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Volvo :: 2003 XC90 2.5T AWD - No Crank / Start

I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.

I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)

Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?

The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108

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Volvo :: 2003 XC90 Turns Over But Will Not Start

I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.

I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.

It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.

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