TrailBlazer :: 2003 Won't Rev Over 3000 - 3500 RPMs Upon Acceleration

Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.

What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.

After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.

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Chevy Trailblazer :: 2002 - Acceleration Will Pause And RPMs Bounce A Bit At Higher Speed

On highway, at higher speeds (50-70), I notice that the vehicle's acceleration will pause and the rpms will bounce a bit. Best description I can give is that it feels as if someone were constantly pinching and releasing the gas line. Short revvv...revvv...revvv. The vehicle doesn't lose power. I get where I am going. And it only occurs up at these higher speeds.

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Cavalier :: 1999 - Engine Ticks When Warm Only / Goes Away When RPMs Go Up

My 1999 cavalier 2200 ticks insanely when its warm so much so its almost embarrassing at a drive thru ! But it goes away when the RPMs go up .

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Civic - Honda :: 2003 - Ticks At Idle And Low RPMs When Engine Is Warm

I have a '03 Civic DX 5 speed. It has 128000 miles on it. I've notice now that it is getting colder, my engine ticks when it is warm - I can hear it at idle and low rpms, but not at higher rpms. It sounds perfect when it's cold, but once it is warm, it has a "tic-a-tic-a-tic-a-tica..." sound. Tom and Ray talked about a Dodge Dakota that made the same sound when the engine was cold (about 8 episodes ago). So what does it mean if it only does it when warm?

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Trans Sport :: Car Won't Be Able To Maintain RPMs On Warm Start And Produce White Smoke

'92 3.8l Trans Sport owner, 165 miles on it (if I can trust the previous owner), have this vehicle for 4 years now(I owned 2.3l version before - not to recommend).

At cold start, it starts without any problem, maintains the RPMs as it should and doesn't produce any white smoke. But when I start it when it's warm(or hot, doesn't matter), the car in a lot of cases won't be able to maintain the RPMs and die. If I apply some throttle for first 2 seconds, it will be ok and it will continue to run normally without any pedal assistance. From time to time this causes a very rough start and it will miss on 1 cylinder until it warms up a bit(15 second - 3 minutes). Regardless the way of starting(assisted or normal) it will start to produce a white smoke, when I wait at stop light for 30 seconds or more and idle becomes very rough and slowly starts to miss on one cylinder.

When I continue to drive, it's ok after a few seconds, until I idle again. My mechanic told me, it's the head gasket, but as nobody in the whole world does not complain about head gasket failure on 3.8l GM engine, I'm a bit sceptical and wouldn't want to invest money on something the car does not need. People mention the intake manifold failure is common for this engine, could that be the case? Car slowly loses the coolant(1l in 2 weeks), no leaks, water pump has just been replaced, smoke was present before replacement. Ignition is OK, new spark plugs, 1 year old cables, 2 years old ICM, first coils, sparks on all cylinders.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: A/C Blowing Warm Air At 1500 - 2000 RPMs - Heater Core?

We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.

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Caravan/Voyager :: 2002 - No Matter The Temperature Setting AC Blow Very Hot Air

Got a 2002 Grand Voyager (as we name it in Europe), 3,3 AWD, with AC/Heating problems.

No matter the temperature setting, from 15C to 29, it will blow with same very hot air. AC working when setting the temp to LO.

Going from LO to 15 deg C, you'll hear a "clunk", as if a door closes, and the warm air will start to flow through the vents.

Tried all the calibration possibilities known to me (ON+Recirc), and it will end with no faults, but to no good effect on the problem.

What the "ON+AC" mode does? Been in that mode - but do not know what it does, or if I'm supposed to do anything.

I haven't got a clue, other than the "thump" I hear when, possibly, the blend door closes, might be a problem, since I would expect the blend to be more gradually invoked.

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Regal :: 1994 Buick Will Not Turnover / Cranks And Dies In A Matter Of Seconds

Okay, let me start by saying that its not the battery, (got it checked and tried to jumps with cables) and I got nothing...I replaced the starter and powwow.. That wasn't the problem, so now I'm confused as crap... Only thing I got left is the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.. I tried to put it in neutral and got nothing..

Could it be the vats system, although my security light doesn't come on... But when I try to bypass the starter soliniod, it cranks but it dies in a matter of seconds.. And I heard the the anti theft system block the starter from firing up the fuel injectors...

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Ford - Expedition :: CEL And Oil Light Came On / Gauge Needle Dropped To Low In Matter Of Seconds

My wife was driving expedition 2001 Saturday, the oil light came on, followed by check engine light. The needle in the gauge dropped to low in a matter of seconds. She exited the first exit, pulled into a Chevron and added 2 quarts of oil. When she restarted, the oil gauge moved up but engine was knocking a little. She turned it off. Sat for a bit and tried again, this time the oil gauge read L again and engine still knocking. There was no leak under the vehicle. Is the engine blown?

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Silverado :: Cold Always No Matter Where The Temperature Selector Knob Turned - No Heat

I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.

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Saturn :: 2002 - Automatic Shifter / Car Still Rolls No Matter What Gear Engaged

2002 Saturn L200 Automatic Shifter. Anyway, I can turn the car on fine. I can push the brake and move the shifter fine. But no matter what gear im in park, reverse, neutral, drive, 3, 2, 1 the car still rolls. Also the indicator lights to the left of the shifter are messed up too. When I am in park position, the indicator lights shows I am in reverse. When in reverse it says neutral etc. What the problem is. If i could move the shifter fine why wont it change gears? and how can i fix the indicator lights?

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Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: No Heat On Driver Side No Matter What Temperature Is Set

I have an '09 Plat SCREW with the dual zone climate control. No matter what temp I set I'm only getting cold air out of the drivers side IP & floor vents as well as the two rear facing vents in the top of the center console. Since I'm out of warranty I'm wondering if there's anything I can check or fix on my own without taking it into the dealer.

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Ford A/C :: 1990 E250 - Heat Does Not Blow No Matter What Setting Low Or High

I have a 1990 E250 and the heat does not blow. I have only had the van a year and it somewhat worked when I got it, but at the end of least winter It stopped blowing. It does not matter what setting I have it on low or high. if I turn the defrost on and put my hand on the dash I can feel warm air but it does not blow. It is the same for the vent, I can feel warm air coming out but does not blow. Sometimes if I hit a bump it seems like it will blow a bit harder but not like it should. My question is, should I just replace the blower motor, or is there something else I should check first?

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Ford - Explorer :: Heater / AC Only Blows Out Through Defrost Vents No Matter What Setting It Is On

My wife's '02 Explorer has developed an issue with the heat/AC. As far as I can tell, the heat is hot when it's supposed to be hot, and the AC is cold when it's supposed to be cold. But, the problem is that everything only blows out through the defrost vents, no matter what setting it is on.

I know there are other threads on this type of subject, and I have read a lot of them. I thought I had identified that actuator gizmo as the culprit, but the more I read, it didn't seem like the symptoms for that issue are exactly like mine. I want to try and fix it myself, and I'd love to take the time to read everything on the subject, but warmer weather is here and my wife wants it fixed yesterday!

This problem reminds me of the time the vacuum pump went out on my F-350 and the defrost vents were all that would work. I wish this problem would be as easy to fix as that was.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Vibration / Shake At About 30 - 45 MPH No Matter If In Gear Or Neutral

I have an 07 F150 xl 2wd 5speed. It has a vibration/shake at about 30-45 mph no matter if its in gear or neutral, or if its under throttle or not. It also gets a little worse when breaking coming down from about 45-30mph.

I was thinking at first it was the wheels out of balance since it was only at a certain mph range but the braking thing has me thinking rotors. The truck has about 51000 miles on it.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 - Heater Blows Air To One Face Only No Matter What Position The Knob Is In

My 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Heat / Blows Cold Air No Matter What Setting At HVAC Controller?

My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2001 - Long Hard Starts No Matter What The Temp Is Outside

My truck is 2001 F250 with the 7.3 I have AFE intake, TS 6 position chip, Stage 1 Auto Tranny, 4in Exhaust all the way down. New glow pugs as of last week as well as uvchs and gp relay. Also has a new hpop line. New compression sleeves for fuel lines, riff-raff fuel banjo bolts and fuel pressure regulator.

I am having a hard start issue no matter what the temp is outside, unless it plugged in. Once it starts its good unless it sits for more than 5 hours.

Batteries have tested good, glow plugs ohm at 1.3, gpr 12.83 at batt side- once on it 11.9. All fuses are good. HPOP res is showing at about 3/4" down from top.

***Wires going to the MAT sensor are showing through at the connector, not sure if this could be a problem...if so why???

****Noticed some oil in the ICP, cleaned and unhooked will check start tomorrow to see if this works with long start as truck is plugged in.

Will also be putting a new fuel filter in and double checking oil level in the am. I do not have a scanner tool and am doing the best I can before I take it in to ford to diagnose.

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Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Vibration Starting At 3000 RPMs And Stopped Around 3100 RPMs

At the beginning December I put my brand new winter tires (general altimax arctics) on the factory steelies and put them on the car gearing up for the snow. Not to long after the install I notice that I was getting a very strong engine vibration starting at 3,000 rpms and it stopped around 3,100 rpms no matter what gear I was in. At first I though it maybe just the cold affecting the engine. Well...

Last week I put my summer rims and tires back on for the 1,600 mile trip to MO and back, and like magic, no more heavy vibrations. Smooth acceleration throughout the normal driving rpm range. I just changed the oil and tranny fluids Tuesday after we got back and with the warmer weather the car is running smooth as silk. Still an awesome car with awesome mileage and couldn't be happier.

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