Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Erratic Shifting And Poor Gas Millage
2002 Santa fe 2.7l v6 trouble code p1529 p0121 p0129 p0740...
I'm having erratic shifting problems and poor gas millage. The issue began approx 2 weeks ago and is always present. The issue is hard shifting between all the gears, jerking, high tac revving , difficulty shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throttle at times unresponsive, and like i stated earlier poor gas mileage.
This past weekend I replaced the TPS, but the TPS codes are still present. One concern I have with the replacement is that I din't detach the negative cable, which I've recently learned should be done. So I'm not sure if by neglecting to remove the battery cable I may have damaged the new TPS.
Is it true that the negative battery cable should be removed with TPS replacement?
I've also read that a faulty TCM can cause these types of symptoms as well and one resolution may be to reset the TCM by removing both battery cables.
Any information on resetting the TCM? Also, in case I decide to replace the TCM, where the module is located ?
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Speedometer Is Acting Erratic Most Of The Time
My 2004 Santa fe speedometer is acting erratic almost all of the time , sometimes it works right. I have replaced on sensor that is easy to get too, right below the air filter and the other is below the cable, but the hard part is that in order to remove the 2 bolts holding the cable in place part of the frame or steering apparatus is partially blocking the bolt where a socket will not fit over...
View 2 RepliesElantra XD (2001-06) :: Erratic Shifting At Around 40 Mph
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. The tranny shifts smooth. At around 40mph, it wants to shift into what I guess is overdrive. At that speed it is like it can't figure out where it wants to be and will down and upshift. Aside from that the tranny has no other problems.
View 5 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Erratic Idle - Revs Up And Down From 1200 To 2600 RPM
Daughter's 2001 Santa Fe Delta V-6 2.5 engine, needed lower ball joints. Replaced the entire lower arms as more cost effective & actually a bit less work, for me anyway.
So While under it, see oil dripping down back of engine. Decided to replace valve cover gaskets. So I start to disconnect all the involved connectors, brackets etc to pull the Upper air intake to get to the rear cover.
While moving around, find most of the hoses & vac lines baked brittle and dried out and loose even tho clamped, so I replace all of those, plus the PCV valve., & the upper & lower radiator hoses as well. I only removed the upper 1/2 of the intake. I change out the cover gaskets, reassemble every thing, reconnect all the connectors. I noticed that some of the connectors could apparently be switched to other sensors, but since all the lines seemed so backed solid, they actually retained their positions to go back onto the proper sensors.(at least I hoped so & it seemed that way).
Anyway, every thing back together & tightened up, so I start it up & the idle is at about 3000 to 3400 RPMs. WTF? So I pop the throttle a couple of times by hand and finally it drops down to normal, then just as suddenly, it begins SEARCHING for lack of a better word, and starts racing upto 2600 rpm then drops to 1200 then up again then down again.
No check engine light or other idiot lights on. So I shut it down & check all the connections and hoses, nothing disconnected or left off or loose. I start it again, and it immediately begins running high & low searching for the idle again.
I shut it down again, and put the MacPro scanner on it and NO codes either set or pending. I next check the Haynes Manual I have for it, & the closest thing I can find to my problem says: Engine Lopes while idling or idles erratically 1) Vac leak 2) Leaking EGR 3)Air filt clogged 4) Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel 5) Leaking head gasket 6) Timing belt/sprockets worn 7) Camshaft lobes worn
By process of elimination, not #'s 2) According to service manual, there is no EGR valve on the 2.7, and I couldn't find one either, #3) Air Filter is new & clean, #4) ran fine before I worked on it & with the engine revving up to 34 or 3600 rpms, getting plenty of fuel, #5) Have had many head gasket problems over the years on many vehicles, never anything like this, and again, it ran fine until I worked on it #6 & 7) Doesn't seem to me to be a belt sprocket or cam shaft problem, as none of that was touched & again, it ran fine until I worked on it. This kind of narrows it down to #1, for me, but this is not like any vacuum leak I have ever come across in 45 years of auto repair. I have found & fixed many stumbling idles due to minor leaks but never had anything like this.
I next called a friend who owned an automotive machine shop & who I used to do work for, and now runs a highway dept garage for a municipality who has been a certified mechanic for many years, told him all the above & the only thing he could come up with was a MAJOR vacuum leak, like possibly the upper plenum gasket rolled up or got torn some how when I replaced the plenum and he suggested that I try a smoke test.
Scratching my head, I go back to the car, & break out my home made smoke machine that I use to successfully pinpoint leaks in emissions systems. I ran it for quite awhile, and found some light smoke leaking from somewhere down around the head, but due to the construction of the engine & no way to get the light to shine under the plenum, could only guess that he may have been right & that there may be a large leak down at the lower intake manifold to head gasket. Needless to say, I removed the upper plenum again, & this time also the manifold to heads, and the gaskets looked like they may possibly have leaked slightly between the ports, & quite possibly somewhere around the number 6 cylinder. So I cleaned the surfaces & am putting on the new gaskets that came in the set with the upper plenum to manifold gasket set.
My questions after relating all of this:
1) The 2 gaskets between the manifold & the cylinder heads have a blue stripe around all 3 cylinder port holes (appears to be some kind of sealant or factory applied silicone bead) & there are no markings of any kind anywhere on the gaskets, so do the blue stripes face DOWN to the heads or UP to the bottom of the intake manifold ?
2) Regardless of which way these stripes face, should I use any kind of high temp sealant around the port holes in addition to the gaskets, or just install them dry ?
3) Can the Idle Air Control on the Throttle Body Fail & affect the idle like the problem I am having, but NOT set a computer code ?
4) Can the Throttle Position Sensor affect the idle like this and NOT set a computer code?
5) I also found an electronic valve between the Air Intake & firewall, it is labeled PCV and has an OEM part number after that, I believe this to be the Purge Control Valve, which connects the TB to a plastic line which I believe runs down to the emissions canister under the vehicles front seats. Am I correct in thinking that even if this part had failed, it would have NOTHING to do with my erratic Idle problem, but would throw an emissions computer code?
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Clunking / Grinding When Shifting From R To D
Last summer my 04 SantaFe (140,000 mi, automatic) would feel like it was sticking and bumping when backing out of a parking space, then after shifting into Drive it would jerk and then make a huge thunking noise when applying the gas pedal. However, this would only happen sometimes, not all the time, and was not dependent upon the weather, surface, whether it had just been driven or not, etc. It would just happen when it happened. I brought it to the Hyundai garage and they replaced an axle and sensor. I continued having the same problem, brought it back to the garage and they replaced the viscous coupler.
I continued to experience the same problem after that, brought it back to the garage and they had the car for 10 days. I was told they had to get a mechanic in who was familiar working on 04 Santa Fe's and they determined the axle they replaced was bad, so they put in a new one. Everything ran great until I brought the car in early February for an "off balance ceiling fan" noise when accelerating. I brought the car to the Hyundai garage again and had the transfer case replaced.
Now the "clunking/grinding" is back when moving from R to D!!! So I brought it back to the garage again Monday and they said they cannot find anything wrong, and they are convinced it's just a symptom of the age and mileage of the car. However, it happened again today, but worse than ever before. This time it felt like it might not even move from R to D, and then it continued the grinding and bumping after accelerating and then the car felt "sluggish". I am convinced something is really wrong, although they assured me at the garage that the transmission is good, the axle, sensor and boot are all good etc. What else could it be?
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 Sticky Shifting / Car Would Not Start
I'm working at summer camp with limited access to my mechanic and information on what i can do. I went to move my car today and when I put the car into reverse the shift was very stiff it went, and moved in reverse the same happened when putting it into drive. The vehicle drove fine the few feet i needed to go but then was sticky shifting into park. I thought I had it in gear all the way but i couldn't turn the vehicle off. I finally got it to turn off (I'm honestly not sure how) and so i tried to start it again to see if it was just a fluke thing... it wasn't. my car would not start. the radio a/c and basic lights came on but the engine did not. there was no clicking noises of anything. a friend and i tried opening up the hood to see if anything looked out of place of did something wrong when trying to start it but we didn't see anything.
View 1 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: 2004 - Hard Thump When Shifting From Reverse Into Drive
Recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 AWD (~86k miles) has started to give a sort of hard thump when shifting from reverse into drive. It's fine going into any other gears and it shifts up and down normally. If I shift from reverse to neutral and then to drive it's fine.
I changed the transmission fluid when we first got the car at 40K miles with Hyundai Liquid Unobtanium SPiii fluid and again at 80k miles with Valvoline's SPiii offering. I just checked the transmission fluid level and it's within the normal range.
I can't tell if this is just drive-line slop or something else inside the tranny.
Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Rapid RPM Fluctuations
The car would rev high to 3k rpms for around 3 seconds on start ups. After I did a timing belt job the car has been jumping 2k to 3.5k back down to 3k, etc sometimes settling at 1.5k. Each time it jumps it stays there for about three seconds. This mainly happens when I am stopped and foot off the throttle, but still does it when it drives, but it is not noticed as much since there is a load under the engine.
Couple of notes:
I made dam sure the timing was correct and belt teeth were installed properly, checked it about 10 times before buttoning everything up. Only thing I can think of is that the belt is too tight but I don't see that causing this problem.
I did clean the pcv valve and a few electrical connections which solved the problem short term, but has come back 3-4 weeks later.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2009 - Subtle Fluctuations Or Surges In Engine Under Both Acceleration And Cruising Speed
I recently bought an '09 Santa Fe Limited. I want to love the vehicle, but I've got a problem with how it drives. Basically, here are the symptoms:
1. Engine RMPs dance around about 200 RPMs at idle. (I was told this is normal. I don't think it should be.)
2. Under normal acceleration, it bogs down immediately after shifting into 2nd gear and after a couple of seconds there is a surge and acceleration seems "normal."
3. Occasionally, I feel subtle fluctuations or surges in the engine under both acceleration and/or cruising speed (any speed, really.) It's like I'm feathering the throttle when I know I'm not. This is most pronounced when under a load, such as taking off from a stop sign at the bottom of a hill and accelerating up the hill.
So, here's what the dealer has done to address the issue.
1. According to the Carfax report, the previous owner had the throttle position sensor replaced at 22,000 miles and again at 27,000 miles. I bought the vehicle with just over 30,000 miles (certified pre-owned).
2. On the day that I bought the vehicle, I noticed the issue and the service manager took it for a test drive with me. He told me it was wind buffeting that I was feeling. I thought that was bunk, but with it being a higher profile vehicle, it put some doubt in my mind. He went ahead and flashed something to reset the adaptive learning module that supposedly adjusts something in the engine based on how you drive. It seemed better after that, so I went ahead and bought it.
3. After a few weeks of driving it, it became clear to me that it was definitely not wind buffeting, so I scheduled a service appt. It was taken for an "extensive" test drive (according to the service record) with a diagnostic computer connected. Apparently, the service technician said they were only able to find one small blip with the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced it and called it fixed. I should also note that at no time, have any codes ever shown up when they check for error codes.
4. Although it seem slightly better, the problem still exists. Just for kicks, I dumped a bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank with my last fill up, but that doesn't seem to have made any difference.
F Series :: 99 F250 SD Speedometer Is Erratic / Trans Is Not Shifting Right
My speedometer is erratic, not reading correctly, and the trans is not shifting right. It gets up to 3000 RPM and I have to back off the throttle to make it shift to 2nd. Then after driving a while everything starts working right. Next time I drive the truck it does the same thing.
View 2 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Erratic Shifting And Flashing O/D Light
I have a 2003 Ford Ranger, recently I had the heater core fail. One thing that happened during the heater core starting to leak is the "THEFT" light came on brighter than normal and no longer flashes when the truck is off. Also when the theft light started acting up the O/D OFF light came on and would not shut off. If I pushed the O/D off button the Theft light will go out and then come back on after the button is released.
After the heater core was replaced the lights stayed on as described above. Every once in a while the O/D off light would stay off but then come on later. No really problem besides the lights and O/D off button not working. Now today the O/D off light started flashing and the truck kept shifting in and out of O/D.
I'm leaning towards a speed sensor issue. I'm going to check and see if there is any codes tonight and will post my results. One other thing that happen with the heater core leaking is the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on because the O2 sensor was shorted out. Have the O2 sensor now and plan on replacing it while I trouble shoot the erratic shifting in and out of O/D.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Slamming While Up Shifting
My 2005 Santa Fe just started "slamming" while up shifting. It seems to be happening between 2nd and 3rd. The fluid is at the correct level and it isn't bad looking or smelling. I've seen postings that say to disconnect the battery to make the controller relearn...that didn't resolve the problem. I just don't want to put a bunch of money into a car that isn't worth it.
View 14 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Delay Shifting Between Gears
Wife's Santa Fe has an issue with it's shift points. Its a 2002 with 148K on it, never has had a CEL, fluid is changed every 60K. Over the past few months the time it takes to shift through the gears is getting longer. What I am describing is not an actual delay between the gears, but rather how long it is starting to take to get the tranny to even shift. Sort of like how a vehicle shifts through its gears when your at a stop, and put the pedal to the floor and just hold it. it makes no difference if your barely on the gas or half way down, still takes a way longer time that it should to shift. It is slightly worse when cold, but still does it when warm. Is there some kind of temp sensor or vacuum line or whatnot that would cause something like this? When it does finally shift, its normal, tight, no slippage or delay. truck runs great other than this.
View 7 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Pause In Shifting From 1st To 2nd Gear With Squeal Between
I am hearing a slight squeal along with a slight pause between first and second gear. It only happens if I accelerate harder than usual. The tranny fluid was flushed and filled about 10k ago and fluid level and is still good. It's a 2002 2.7l fwd with 223,256 miles.
View 3 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Transmission Shifting Hard Around 40 Mph On Freeway
I just got a 2004 hyundai santa fe 2.7l 2wd model with only 92k miles that I just bought off of Craigslist anyways when im on flat ground and cruising through town the transmission shifts perfectly. However when i went up an incline to get on the freeway it shifted hard around 40 mph but after i got back on flat ground again I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic and once it cleared it shifted perfectly all the way to freeway speeds of approximately 70mph. Then after getting off the freeway and picking my friend up when i went to get back on the freeway (another incline) it shifted hard again around 40mph.
View 15 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Shifting Really Hard Into 2nd Gear When Going Uphill
I have an '03 AWD, automatic Santa Fe and it started shifting really hard into 2nd gear when going uphill recently. It also seems to take a while to shift into 2nd from 1st, but it doesn't bang like it does when downshifting.
In other threads on this site is seems like either the throttle position sensor or shift solenoids may be responsible for this. What's causing it, and how to go about fixing it?
Prius (2004-09) :: 12V Battery Fluctuations - Is It Normal
My ScanGauge II is saying my Optima Yellow Top while in READY mode cruising down the highway is 13.4V. When I came to a stop and put the vehicle in park, it switched to 14.0V. Out of curiosity I put it in drive and it went back down to 13.4V.
Yesterday while driving on the highway for about 30 minutes it read 14V the entire trip. What's going on? Normal?
Yesterday I also had my battery tested directly on the battery at Advance Auto Parts with a computer battery tester certified for AGM batteries. It tested at 12.75V exactly, which is normal.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Transmission Vibrates / Shakes When Shifting Gears
A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
View 5 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Knock On Driver Side When Starting Or Shifting Gears
I hear a knock once in a while when starting my 2004 2.7 V6 Santa Fe and sometimes when shifting gears. I also hear it when going over rough rough, bumps, tracks etc... I'm thinking motor mounts 152k on the car.
My question would be how many mounts are there, exactly? I've seen three, but maybe another two for the transmission.
The front mount has some separation, but can't tell the others, as I haven't gone under the car with a flashlight just yet.
The majority of the knock seems to come from the driver's side. not sure if that narrows it down at all.