Ram / SRT10 :: 2000 / 1500 - Replaced Motor And Tiny Ground Wire Shorted Out
The problem I had started 2 months ago. Wipers froze to windshield and I didn't get it loose enough so I turned wipers on it moved and then stopped, figured just frozen,.. but once I got it all loose she didn't work. Tested everything
When I was pulling the motor I noticed it was kinda working when moving around.. but I replaced motor I found out testing with the new motor that tiny ground wire was shorted out. I guess it burned somewhere, as when I ran a wire from the motor to a bolt. It worked. Motor did work slow.
But I was driving other day and wanted to use wipers boom not working. I just pulled it off. Motor doesn't seem to be working but the delay is working I run a meter to the battery and then to the 1 wire on the harness and she trips on and off the 12 volts. So I guessing the motor is burned out. And that thin ground wire has no ground to it so I'm sure it blew before the 25 amp breaker will ever break
Ram / SRT10 :: 98 1500 4x4 Quad Won't Start Just Clicks Once
98 1500 4x4 quad, 5.2.. Did run fine. Go out to start wont start just clicks once. Replaced starter and the battery. Still only clicks once. checked voltage across terminals to the grounds. swapped relays around still one click. Going to check in the morning make sure it didn't seize.
View 4 RepliesRam / SRT10 :: 1996 - Severe Shaking At 1500 RPM Last Gear And Slight Shaking At Idle
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
Ram / SRT10 :: 2001 Dodge - ABS Light Won't Go Out?
My Uncle has a 2001 Dodge Ram. He has bled the lines and the calipers have released. But still ABS light will not go out?
View 10 RepliesRam / SRT10 :: 1994 - Code 35 On Check Engine Light
Just got a 35 on my check engine light. From the list of codes this has to do with a radiator fan control, but the fan is not electric. It's a 1994 Ram with 5.2L 318 engine. I'm confused, what does this mean?
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 4.6L - Missing Only Between 1500 And 2000 RPM
I have a 2000 F150 with 4.6l triton 125k miles. i have a bad miss ONLY between 1500 and 2000 rpm. This will happen in any gear and in neutral, but only between those rpm's. seems to happen more constant in warm weather. This miss is so bad it feels like the transmission is going to fall out. but since it does it in neutral i doubt tranny problems. things I've replaced: fuel filter, tranny fluid and filter, crankshaft pos. camshaft pos, TPI, MAF, spark plugs, Ignition coils ( all 8) cleaned throttle body ( found 1 EGR port clogged completely )..
I had a couple codes but nothing constant. Been working on this for about 1 year. Codes p0320 (ignition speed input error) p0262 (injector circuit high cylinder #1). my only question here is...... What would only make this dang engine miss between 1500 and 2000 rpm. motor runs perfect thru all other ranges. idle... high speed.. and even throttling through this bad range is ok.. but when stabilizing between 1500 and 2000 starts jerking and missing like no fuel and no fire. i have put in superchip program couple years ago and it ran fine for about 1 year, then this trouble started... I have put back to stock program but still trouble.
Silverado :: 2000 4X4 1500 - Tires Bouncing Like Basketballs?
I have a 2000 4X4 1500. Twice now I have been driving on the highway around 60 and when I pass over a rough area, the wheels bounce all over the place. After the first time, I replaced the shocks. But it happened again. The tires are new, and are balanced a rotated every 5000 miles.
View 11 RepliesAirconditioning :: Car Surges / Lurches Or RPM Shoots Up To 1500 - 2000
Vehicle : 2005 Five Hundred (220,000 miles)
Symptom : Car surges (lurches or RPM shoots up to 1500-2000) when outside temperature is 75+ F and ONLY when A/C is on. In addition, when outside temp 80+F, A/C occasionally not as cool, and engine temp goes to HOT (nearly overheating. Shutting off A/C gets engine temp back to normal and surging issue goes away. Less frequently, car's RPM drops to nearly stalling and on a couple occasions the car actually stalled. Symptoms began around 100,000 miles. Lastly, this happens ONLY when at idle (usually in gear) or when coming to a stop or driving slowly, like in a parking lot.
Corrective steps taken to date: - Throttle body cleaned by dealer mechanic (I'm not 100% sure it was a thorough job.) - Thermostat changed. - A/C recharged. - Belts & fans checked - OK. - Engine computer reset (?) - battery disconnected by mechanic for 30+ minutes to "reset" computer.
This has been going on for at least 3 years now. I've been to my Ford dealer and an independent mechanic's shop numerous times for this. The dealer was never able to reproduce the problem. The other mechanic finally experienced the surging. Oddly enough, after each visit to the shop, the car seems fine for the day and then the symptoms begin to return in full force!
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Ignition Knock When RPM Is About 1500 - 2000
Since of lately my 2001 santa fe with about 143000 Km on the clock is having a ignition knock when the RPM is about 1500-2000, also changing to 2nd gear (Auto Box). What it could be and how to rectify it?
View 2 RepliesInstrument Cluster In 2000 Silverado 1500 Stopped Working
The instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
View 1 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Clanging Noise At Low RPMs (1200 - 1500)
I was climbing up a hill on the highway, and I was aware of my issue by the time I hit the top of the hill - my car far into the red zone on the temp gauge.
I pulled over just after i got off, let it cool for a few minutes, check oil and coolant and they seemed fine (from what i could, but it was dark. Drove home because it was only a few mins away, and it had cooled a bit already, but it started sounding really weird at low rpms (1200-1500) almost a clanging noise.
Just as i was pulling into my driveway, there were a whole bunch of weird noises, and at least one of them was me losing coolant from the cap. Turned off the car and the coolant overflow box was completely full, and the radiator cap had leaked some too.
Some other things i noticed - sounded like boiling water inside the large hoses, hoses felt empty, and the coolant box emptied all of a sudden after the hoses sucks everything back up.
Toyota - Corolla :: 1994 - Idles At High RPM Around 1500 And 2000
My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Hesitation / Surge And Stumble Over 1500 RPM
I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
Passat (B5) :: RPMs Went Up To 1200 - 1500 At Traffic Light / Check Engine Light Came On?
I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 Replies2000 Suburban 1500 4wd Tires Do Not Turn When Move The Steering Wheel
I have a 00 Suburban 1500 4wd and when I move the steering wheel the tires do not turn. I looked and a nut is missing from one of the pieces! Not sure what it is called!
View 2 RepliesSuburban :: 1999 - RPMs Shoot Up To 2000 Then Back Down To 1500 While Driving
So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
View 2 RepliesIntrepid :: 2001 Car Idles Around 1500-2000 RPM But Acts Like It Is Hitting Rev Limiter
My 2001 Intrepid ran good before I removed the intake air plenum. I removed the plenum to replace the air coolant bleeder. When the plenum was removed, I left the throttle body connected and just unhooked the wires from the idle air controller (IAC) and throttle position sensor (TPS). After reassembling the intake, the car was idling up around 4000-4500 RPM. The idle is really rough as though it is hitting a rev limiter.
When I unhook the TPS, the car idles around 1500-2000 RPM but still acts like it is hitting a rev limiter. What might be causing this? I don't know why lifting the plenum and throttle body would wreck either of the two sensors. I also can't figure out why the car idles so much lower when the TPS is unhooked. Would that suggest the TPS needs to be replaced? The throttle is operating freely and is fully closed when I'm attempting to start the car.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - Idle Varies Between 800 To 1500 Intermittently Within Seconds
My car is standard 5 speed transmission, when my car is running my idle varys between 800ish to 1500 intermittently within seconds and if I don't drive it after starting the car it will stall on me (in neutral) after the rpms go up and down about 9 times.
The thing I found is if I disconnect my idle air control valve attached to my throttle body it stops the jumps in rpm. I have tried replacing the valve with one of my friends control valve Hyundai accent 2004 that works and fits perfectly on his doesn't work on mine. Right now I have my idle air control valve disconnected at the moment but i want to fix this issue because my rpms are at 1300 at idle.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Code P1586 - Engine Is Hesitating Between 1500 And 2000 Rpm
Fault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
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