Volvo - Xc90 :: Brakes And Rotors Need To Be Replaced Much Too Often
I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
Subaru :: 2011 Legacy Front Lights - Replaced Six Bulbs In Under 3 Years
Just wondering if it's my car or does Subaru have a light issue going on with the 2011 Legacy's??
I bought my car 1/31/11 (so I'm still under warranty... barely) but here is my history with bulb replacement:
3/22/12 -- 14,251 miles -- driver side headlamp out
6/27/12 -- 17,322 miles -- passenger side headlamp out
6/19/13 -- 27,783 miles -- driver side headlamp out (although was taken in for a passenger side, side marker light)
7/16/13 -- 28,987 miles -- passenger side marker light out (the one that they didn't replace on 6/19/13)
1/22/14 -- 33,759 miles -- driver side head lamp and side marker out
Six bulbs in under 3 years???? Granted these have all be replaced under warranty but the next one won't be despite the fact it's an ongoing issue and that concerns me. I know I'm spoiled because I had a 2002 Honda before the Subaru and in 12 years (mom is now driving it) and 100+k miles I've replaced 1 burnt out bulb.
Passat (B7) :: 2012 - Brakes Grip Won't Catching Rotors While Stopping?
So, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
Civic - Honda :: 2005, Car Is Pulsing Badly After Replaced Pads And Rotors
I replaced the pads and rotors on my 05 Civic 3000 miles ago. Now it is pulsing badly again when stepping on the brakes. I can feel the pulse in the brake pedal and the steering wheel. What should I be looking for when I pull off the wheels again.
View 8 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Replaced Rotors But Pads Still Shaking
I've got a 2011 XLT. The front rotors have been turned twice already in 39k miles. Once at 12k and again around 24k covered under warranty. It starting having vibrations on the highway and shuddering when braking again around 36k. Tired of dealing with the OEM rotors and told it would no longer be covered under warranty I went to Autozone and got duralast rotors and pads for the front.
Swapped them out Friday
- took caliper off
- removed pads
- took caliper bracket off
- swapped rotor
- opened bleed valve to push back piston(used a vise/c clamp combo)
- closed valve with piston under pressure
- put in new pads
- placed caliper bracket back on
I did not remove the pins, they seemed to slide fine and the remaining hardware still looks fairly new.
Took it out all was good, bedded the brakes a bit and called it a night. Come out this morning and start to head out and it's shaking like crazy now once above 40 mph. Made it back this afternoon and took the passenger side off and its not making full contact with the rotors. I've read this can be common until the pads are broken in. Driver side appears fine, pads appear to be bedding fine and nothing looks out of the ordinary, I took the caliper back off but had to open the bleed valve to get it loose enough to let go of the pads.
I've even taken the passenger side back off and reset the piston again just to make sure.
Put everything back together and take it for a spin. Truck seems worse now even at slow speeds 25-50mph. Once the brakes start getting hot from stopping the shaking goes away. When the brakes start cooling back down it comes right back.
Going to swap back the OEM rotors and retest in the morning. Will take the new ones back If that puts it back to normal I may just replace with OEM ones then. The brakes work perfect it's just the shaking that I can't seem to figure out.
Anything to check? It seems like the new rotors are warped
Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Original Brakes And Rotors Squeak
When I 1st brought the car the original brakes and rotors squeak, I really didn't mind bcuz I had plans on changing them, now I installed the aftermarket slot/drilled rotors with new ceramic brake pads, and I still get squeaking from the front brakes, weather it's wet or dry, cold or warm they squeak, what I can do to stop this?
View 5 RepliesMazda :: Starts To Shake When Brakes Are Used At 55+ Mph - Rotors Malfunction
When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
Lexus GX 2010+ :: Brakes Sticking To Rotors After Wash
Having issues with the brakes locking to the rotors after washing the vehicle? I washed it on Saturday afternoon, pulled it back into the garage and it sat there until Monday morning.
I back the vehicle into the garage, always. I started it up, put it in D and usually it will want to lurch forward if I don't hold the brakes firmly. Not today. I could not get the thing to budge. I sat there for a few seconds to make sure the parking brake was not on. It was not, as I never use that. My garage floor is the slippery concrete, plus with the tire shine that I applied, the wheels were just spinning.
After I managed to get the vehicle halfway out, I put it in reverse...that worked no problem. I put it back in drive and had no issues after that. Do I need to have the vehicle looked at? It only has 5,400 miles, and it was just in last week for the 5K mile service.
Ford Excursion :: Brakes Sometimes Feel Like The Rotors Are Warped
My brakes sometimes feel like the rotors are warped. The problem is that it isn't consistent. I remember how the original rotors warped and they were crap so I put some drilled and slotted rotors on about 150,000 miles ago. Currently but not all of the time it acts like the current rotors are warped, the steering wheel will move back and forth, feel the shake in the vehicle. But today running a few errands at lunch, there was no wobble etc. I might go ahead and replace the rotors/pads but want to be sure that is the issue. Could it be the hydroboost on the 7.3? ABS?
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Brakes Squeaky - Rotors Bad Again?
2004 F150 XLT, 5.4, 69,000miles.
I took my truck into Brake Check because my brakes were squeaking and the rotor needed to be worked on, when I slowed down the truck would slow down smoothly....it felt like I was pressing hard then releasing etc. I knew it needed new pads etc.
Well, they replaced the Pads, and did Rotor Reface on all 4. They recommended getting the Calipers Maintenance (front 2 wheels). They wanted $800 for new rotors too (in addition). I told them no.
Fast forward around 6 months. Truck was braking great, no squeaks etc for about 4 months. Then I begin noticing huge amounts of brake dust on my wheels. Might be normal not sure.
2 months later, but truck now squeaks again while braking. And when I'm going slow, I like in a parking garage I can hear this clicking noise while I'm on the brake. CLICK.....CLICK.....CLICK....CLICK.
If you coudn't tell, I don't know much about my truck. I'm trying to learn.
Well, whenever I slow down from ~50mph, my truck vibrates like nothing I've ever seen before. My windshield wipers are bouncing around it's so bad.
I took it to a Ford Dealership to get the works done, where they rotate the tires and change the oil etc, and inspect the brakes. The guy said the rotors need to be machined.
That's not normal right? I don't drive a lot. I don't ride the brakes, I haven't had to brake hard. 6 months from the work I've had done from Brake Check, and the rotors are bad again?
I'm just going to pay Ford to fix this issue and not go back to brake check because that means I'd have to drive 3hrs. I'm curious though, shouldn't their work on the rotor still be good.....not causing them to be worked on again?! I like my truck a lot, the brakes are just pissing me off. My last truck, a 2002 ford...I had till last winter till someone rear ended my truck totaling it, I never had to do any brake work on that thing.
I got suckered into buying the extended warranty for my truck, and it says it covers the calipers.
I'm taking it into a different ford dealership that is in my town next week, and was curious if any of you had some insight on my brake situation.
Camry :: Rotors / Pads (new) - Low Medium Squeaking Sound From Brakes
I recently had rotors and brake pads replaced on my 2007 Camry (front pads/rotors and read pads/rotors).
It was done last week and she is braking fine. But sometimes now when I brake there's a low-medium squeaking sound from the brakes. Is this normal / what's the likely cause?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: GLS With New Front Brakes And Rotors Still Squealing / Grinding
I took my 2010 Sonata GLS (86K miles) into the shop last Thursday for an alignment and new front brakes since the old ones were on the wear indicators and doing some squealing/squeaking on soft left turns. Got a call from the mechanic who said the rotors were also shot, so I had them replaced as well.
On my normal commute on Monday and Tuesday this week (approx 10 miles, 95% highway), I noticed that when the car was moving at 15mph or less in a straight line both front wheels were making a noticeable high-pitched squeal/squeak, which went away with increased speed and when braking. I figured it might be a break-in issue but when it hadn't improved by yesterday I made an appointment to have the car checked out by the mechanic again today.
Got the car back today and the same sound is still happening, though now it's in the 60mph range and seems to come and go regardless of wheel direction. The mechanic said he took the brakes apart, found no issues but cleaned and lubed everything as a precaution.
I'm starting to wonder if its the bearings that are shot, but the sound hasn't remained constant as I would expect with a bearing issue. All the parts used are under warranty, so the next step I have available here is to have the brakes and rotors replaced.
Ford - Fusion :: 2011 - Brakes Squealing - Rotors Scoring?
2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid .. Since purchasing my vehicle in January 2011, I have had continuing problems with squealing brakes and my rotors scoring. They have been replaced along with the linings, pads, etc and less than three months later they are back in the same condition. I drive 140 highway miles roundtrip daily - at least half of that in stop-n-go commute traffic. I never experienced this over the 11 years I owned my 1999 Ford Explorer under the same driving conditions. Have this issue with the hybrid?
View 3 RepliesFord Brakes/Suspension :: 1995 F150 XLT 5.8 - Replaced Brake Pads Now Spongy Brakes?
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesCaravan/Voyager :: 2008 GC - Pedal Goes To Floor After Changing Brakes And Rotors
I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
Lexus LS 2007+ :: Brakes Shudder After Changing Pads And Machining Rotors
2008 LS600hl with 31K miles, been having low speed brakes shudder for quite sometime even after changing pads and machining rotors. This weekend thought about putting grease on the pins holding the pads, this did the trick, shudder is gone!
View 9 RepliesPontiac - Grandprix :: Rear Brakes Noisy - Pad Down To Metal - Replace Both Rotors?
i wrench on kids car. have done all 4 brakes in last 5 yrs. kid said front brakes were noisy. 06/01. 1 pad was worn thru to backing plate. messed up rotor. i decided to replace both rotors since cost was minimal. piston in caliper was stiff. decided to change caliper 1 week later. yesterday kid said rear brakes were noisy. rear discs. 1 pad was down to metal. replaced pads. rotor looks rough. other rotor is ok. need to get 1 new rotor. should i change both? pistons in calipers pushed in easy. feel smooth. caliper pins look fine.
View 11 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Brakes Shimmy After New Pads And Rotors
Brakes shimmy on my 05 f150. Been doing this since new new pads and rotors and alignment. what now?
View 5 RepliesCamry :: Batteries Replaced Several Times, Keeps Failing
My wife drives a 2005 Solara 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE. Over the past few years, it has been going through batteries about every year and a half. The batteries have all failed on the load test.
So far, I've removed the alternator and taken it in to get it bench tested, tested fine. I had the full charging system check with the machine, starter tested fine, alternator volts were fine, only problem was the CCA load test (for which the battery was replaced under warranty). I tested for parasitic battery drain several times, got some drain for awhile after car is powered off, but it eventually falls to zero. I checked for voltage drop across the wiring, visually inspected the wiring to the starter, alternator, etc. and made sure the ground connections were tight from the battery to the frame and engine. Everything looked good.
The only thing I can come up with is that the most recent battery boiled over a bit at one point in time because there was evidence of acid spillage. Also, once (and only once), my wife noticed her lights flickering while her car was idling for awhile during a cold morning. These two things lead me to think it must be the alternator (voltage regulator), but neither the bench test nor anytime I test it at home reveals any issue.
Maybe it's an intermittent problem from vibration, etc. I just hate to plunk down the cash for a new alternator if that isn't the issue.