Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 1997 - Electrical Malfunctions / Wipers Work Only In Spray And Wipe Mode
Problem 1: Headlight switch occasionally needs to be jiggled to get headlights on.
Problem 2: Wipers only work in the "spray and wipe" mode.
My Solution: Removed dash, installed new switches, replaced dash.Result: Now the right headlight does not come on at all. Wipers STILL only work in the "Spray and wipe" mode.
Question: Where do I go from here?
Ford Excursion :: 2000 - Electrical Malfunctions - Dome Light Stays On - Battery Dead In Morning - OD Light Flashes?
i have a 2000 ex,6.8 4x4.every now and then the dome light stays on.theres also a problem where theres a buzzing sound coming under dash while driving and makes the dome light flicker.these are seprate problems.lol.when the buzzing sound is present ,it stops when i open the door,running or not.but starts up again when i close it,even happens occasionaly when ignition is off and no key in ignition.electrical problems are my worst night mare!!!!!!!! My battery is dead in the morning when this is happening .oh yea,and the o.d.light flashes occasionaly as well.im totally lost.
View 6 RepliesPhaeton :: Electrical Malfunctions After Installing Stop / Start Button
I did the installation of the start/stop button and it works. However, I have some unresolved issues. I have done a search in the FAQ thread but could not find anything referring to the following:
1- When I lock the car, either with the fob or with the door buttons, the alarm will sound when I enter the car if I unlock it using the door handle sensors. I can disarm the alarm with the fob, but it is not disarming with the door handles. How can I solve this issue so that the alarm is disarmed with the door handles? Can this be solved using a VAG-COM?
2- When I turn on the alarm, either with the fob or the door handle, the alarm indicating light blinks for a few seconds, then goes steady, and then blinks normally. I had not noticed this steady light state before. My alarm, I think, always went straight to blinking and stayed blinking
.
3- When they gave me the car back the adviser said that the seat would not move and the trunk would not open. However, I think they ran down the battery because the interior light was on. The dash displayed the "start the car now" message.
a) I had an almost two hour drive back home, do you think that the battery recharged in that time?
b) Was there any lasting damage done to the battery?
c) Is it safe to charge the battery with a trickle charger or do I need a special and specific charger?
The trunk now operates OK and the start/stop button also works. I wish the alarm also did.
Mini - Cooper :: 2005 - Electrical Malfunctions - Everything Went Out For Couple Of Seconds
I have a Mini Cooper 2005. Last month the battery died. The warning sign was that when I turned the key, there was a second or two pause where everything went dead. No lights at all in cabin and clock reset. Then it started up. It did that many times before the battery went dead. I got it charged and thought all was well but now the mini did the pause thing again and I fear that I am going to deal with a dead battery again.
View 5 RepliesFord - Taurus :: 1995 - Motor Swap And Now Fuel Electrical Malfunctions?
I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Electrical Malfunctions - Temp Gauge Pegs Without Getting Hot?
I just bought a 97 f-150 from my dad, there are some electrical issue's but the main one seems to be battery drain.
I have noticed with the truck off key in my pocket, the a/c doors keep trying to move and the a/c head has power to it.
I know the engine has been replaced, with about 20k on it.
The temp gauge pegs w/o getting hot, and it even turned over once while we were getting in the truck. Again key in pocket.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - LED Lights Installed - Electrical Malfunctions?
I have a 2006 Ford F-150 V8 XLT 4x2 SuperCrew that I had to replace a few old/blown bulbs on (left Front Blinker and rear Right Blinker/Brake). I decided to go with the Pilot brand LED replacements, and verified that they are the correct replacement models to the factory bulb part numbers.
Per what I've read from others' experience doing this... I opted to buy the EP27 flasher to fix the issues with hyperflashing, rather than going with Load Resistors. So, all LEDs blink/flash with no problem.
The issue seems to be related to me having the Headlight Switch in the DRL-on position, and the headlights/parking lights not being on (i.e. if it's still daylight and it's just the DRL). If the Headlight switch is left in the off position or in the DRL-on position, when I brake or signal (left or right) the entire electrical system will flash/illuminate with the brake/flashing activity (this includes all LEDs and brake lights and the Stereo backlighting... anything that is dimmed by leaving the Headlight switch in an 'off' or DRL-on position). The only way to fix the problem is to turn the Headlight switch into the parking or headlights on position.. then the issue doesn't occur, all signal and brake light activities work as expected.
It's not a big deal, but I guess I'm lazy and like having the headlights come on and off automatically... plus, I'm a little worried that there might be an electrical issue that could cause me issues if I don't address it now.
The only thing I have NOT done is replaced the LEDs back with Incandescent bulbs, to see if the problem is totally eliminated. I have verified that no fuses are blown in the fuse panel, etc.
I'm sure the issue is easy to fix and I'm hoping the fix isn't to remove/replace the LED lights with OEM lights..
Golf IV R32 :: Electrical Malfunctions - When Hit A Bump Or Pothole Radio Would Shut Off And Then Turn Back On
I have been having some electrical problems lately that seem to be getting worse. For the past few months sometimes when i hit a bump or pothole my radio would shut off and then turn back on. Well I never got around to looking at it cause i would forget about it until it did it again. so just a couple of days ago im coming into my driveway, hit the bump, and my car shuts off. Not like a stall, just no electricity. I was thinking i need a new battery because my lights flicker and dim when i hit my window button, or when I am just sitting at a light, sometimes my dash lights will flicker. But now I am thinking maybe I have a bad ground or something.
View 6 RepliesFord Excursion :: Electrical Malfunctions - ABS Light On - No Radio / Gauges - Power Loss?
Today I was driving to my moms house. I had been on the road for about 2.5 hours. My ABS light came on, I didn't think anything about just figured a sensor was dirty or bad. About 30 min later the radio shut off then all the gauges bottomed out and the truck lost all power. I was able to coast/idle off the road. I called a local parts place and they had a replacement alternator for me. While I was at it I also replaced the battery. I started the truck up and hit the road again. I drove another 45min with no issues.
Does this sound right or am I missing something else?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Electrical Malfunctions - Blower / Turn Signals / Headlights Won't Working?
My truck is a 2004 F150 XLT, 4.6L 2 wheel drive extended cab
The truck starts fine. With no lights on, heater/ac blower turned off... my turn signals and hazards work as they should.
If I turn on my headlights, I have no turn signals and the indicators on the dash are slightly lit up along with my highbeam indicators. The actual dash lights do not come on.
The blower does not work at all regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Turning the blower on immediately creates the same issue as the lights. (no turn signals, slightly lit up indicators, etc). The blower does not work on any speed. I can hear the duct work changing direction behind the dash as I move the blower selector from dash to windshield to floor, etc. I can also hear the compressor kicking on for the AC.
What I have done: I have checked all the fuses. I have attempted to remove every one of them while running to see if anything shutting off would let the blower kick on. I have unplugged the blower entirely wondering if there was a dead short. I have removed and unplugged the resistor to see if that might be an issue. I have also removed the right side kick panel and checked the ground wire there that runs to the dash. Everything so far seems to be in good order.
Ford Excursion :: Repairing Electrical Malfunctions - Power Door Lock Button Stopped Working
My power door lock switch in the drivers door stopped working (not the actuator problem, but the actual switch would unlock, but not lock the doors)
I started to research if it could just be simple corrosion and decided to spray the contacts with CRC electronics cleaner. It completely fixed it.
Next, my parking brake light sensor stopped working so I did the same and it fixed it.
I began to research cleaning contacts and found a number of people in the automotive forums who basically spray contact cleaner on every electrical connection they ever touch.
I will do this in the future. The only part I wonder about is if there is something better to spray on them to prevent further corrosion in the future. I used dielectric grease but it would be nice to just spray the thing down. However, CRC does say their electronic cleaner prevent future corrosion.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Electrical Malfunctions - Odometer Display Flashes On And Off - No Power Mirror?
I have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2000 F250 - Parking Lights Not Working After Electrical Work
2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
Passat (B5) :: 2000 V6 Won't Start - No Electrical Power
Ok so here's the deal my woman stopped at a gas station and when she got back into the car, it wouldn't start. Since then I have replaced the battery and started to check fuses ( but w no real guide to what fuses work what its hard to figure things out ) I have found 4 fuses that are marked engine but only 2 of them have power (and yes the 2 fuses that aren't working are good fuses not broken) . I have pulled the bottom of the dash apart but what relay goes to what so I'm at a loss...
View 2 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: Flashers Don't Work / High And Low Beams Work
2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
View 6 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2000 - Interior Lights Would Randomly Work
Car is a 2000 Passat, 1.8t, APR, Forge Splitter, DV relocated, lowered.
Recently, the interior lights would randomly work and then not work when ANY door would open. Now all interior lights work at all, but the dash lights DO WORK as well as all the lights in the dash. It appears that the issue is isolated to just the map/reading lights. So no map and reading lights whether ANY door is open or if the switch is placed in the on position, this goes for the front, rear upper side lights, and the trunk light. The glove box and under door lights don't work as well. Consequently my drivers side window stopped working as well but I am thinking that may be a separate issue seeing as how the window kind of had a mind of its own before this all happened.
Things that I have checked:
1) I first thought that the microswitch in the drivers door was toast but the door alarm still works when the drivers door is open, the power locks still work, and the headlight alarm works when they are on and drivers door is open.
2) I checked the two main fuses for the 'Comfort Control' Systems. They were both fine.
3) I check for continuity across both of those circuits at the fuse block, the circuit is complete.
4) I checked the continuity of the fuses, they were fine.
The only thing I haven't physically checked is the CCM itself. I want to believe that this isn't the issue since I am religious about cleaning out my drains in the battery tray and door jambs.
Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Power Trunk Release Won't Work?
I have a 2000 v6 glx passat. CCM recently got fried, brought to dealer and got replaced, they fixed all the leaks. I go to open with trunk with the remote and it doesn't work, so i go to the cabin and use the switch located at the bottom of the drivers door and that doesn't work either. I hear a clicking in the fuse box so i looked around and fuse 38 clicks when ever i hit the trunk release button, fuse is fine, replaced with another one too, trunk opens with key manually. when fuse 38 is removed, trunk still doesn't open remotely or with button but the clicking stops.
View 3 RepliesPassat (B5) :: 2000 - A/C Work Sporadically - Climatronic Use Outside Temp Gauge?
My climatronic has been goofy since I bought my 2000 v6 4mo. In the winter my heat never got really hot and now in the summer my A/C work sporadically. I had the thermostat changed along with the full timing belt service. I'm hoping I'll get full heat come september. My A/C, however works less and less often. The tech who did the timing belt change etc. said that there was a lot of pressure at the condenser, but that he thought a flap may have been stuck. he checked those and they are fine. The last two things he said should be checked are the external temp gauge(which is way off, reads 22'F when its like 85 out) or possibly I need a new climatronic head unit.
My questions are esentially these; Does the climatronic use the outside temp gauge to determine cabin temp? Do head units fail often? Are there temp sensors in the cabin other than those built into the climatronic head unit?
Aurora :: 97 - No Electrical Power / Remote Doesn't Work
The remote doesn't work. The car key doesn't work on the car lock, tried the coat hanger to pull the lock, that didn't work either. It seems the car has no electrical power.
View 1 Replies