Mercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Whines Over 40 MPH

I have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?

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Coolant - Oil - Mercedes-benz - E-class :: 1989 - Engine Has No Water

I got oil in my coolant ...the engine has no water..trany is good too...when I drive the temperature is good, but when I'm at a stop it gets hotter...when I add oil that's whence I notice...could it be a simple fix or is it the gasket? 1989, Mercedez 260E, V6, 200k plus miles.....

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Mercedes-benz - C-class :: Started Running Rough After About 30 Minutes Of Drive

I've got a merc C230 Kompressor that has 174k miles on it. The car typically runs really well and is not underpowered or anything. Last weekend I took a road trip that was 400 miles or so. The car did fine for the first 300 miles but then began running rough and was underpowered. Was acting like there was a fouled plug. I pulled over and stopped the car where it sat for about 5 mins. When I restarted the car, it was back to normal, with a smooth idle and not underpowered. It ran fine for about 30 mins and then began running rough and underpowered. I find that when it starts running rough, if I stop the car and turn it all the way off for at least 60 seconds, then when i turn it back on it will operate normally again for a bit. This also only seems to be happening when its really hot weather, 90 degrees F or higher.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1989 - When Starting It Doesn't Stay Running Even If Keep Giving Throttle

I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.

Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.

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Cherokee :: 99 JGC Limited 4.7 Starts But Would Not Stay Running

So our battery died and after getting it jumped the Jeep would not stay running. As long as I was giving it gas it would stay running. As soon as I stopped giving it gas it would die.

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Escort :: 1991 Ford Starts But Won't Stay Running

i have a 1991 ford escort pony i w driving it fine all day then all a sudden i stopped to get water the car died when it did i tried to restart it , it bogged out and didnt start i waited a hr it started idled for 20 mins reved it up everything seemed ok but then i went to actually drive it i got 1/3 of a mile if that and it died on the side of the road with my lil daughter in the car and 104 degrees outside. me and my father thought it was a furl filter or pump but in the primer valvei t has plenty of fuel and pressure. what it could be?

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Civic - Honda :: 1992 - Starts But Won't Stay Running

1992 Honda Civic Starts fine but kills as soon as you release the key. Hold the key in the position with the starter motor running and it keeps running. In the old days we would replace the resistor on the firewall. Today?

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Ford Excursion :: Starts But Won't Stay Running When Cold

When its cold outside it starts and runs good for about a second and then shuts off or runs really rough and then takes off. I tried turning it off and starting it about 4 times. After the fourth time I gave it a little gas and it started after that. If the block heater is plugged in it starts fine. And starts great the rest of the day after the initial start. It is not that cold here, lower 20's in the morning. Where to start with this problem?

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S-10 :: 1999 Chevy 2.2 L Just Shut Down While Driving Now Starts But Won't Stay Running

I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.

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Civic - Honda :: 2002 LX Automatic Starts But Won't Stay Running

I recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.

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Ford - Thunderbird :: 1986 - When Turn The Key, Car Starts But Won't Stay Running

I have my car and it takes a few times to start but once its on it wont stay running if i let go of the key or the ignition cylinder ....

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Chevrolet :: 1982 - Small Block Starts Up But Will Not Stay Running Idle

I just bought a 1982 Chevy c10 305 small block.It had an oil leak so i began putting new valve cover gaskets, and then New Valve Covers(Edelbrock). Because the covers were taller, I had to remove the EGR valve and bend a new fuel line.There was a plate i installed inside the valve cover where the PVC goes into? is this a problem?I noticed the hose from the distributor rotor button(vacuum?) was not connected to anything.I plan on putting a EGR blocker plate, but was told it wasn't needed to run.

So now it starts up but will not stay running idle. Do i need an EGR blocker to run?IS that plate needed inside the Valve Cover?Does the hose from the Distributor rotor need to be connected?

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Touareg :: VW Versus Mercedes Benz ML 320?

I am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.

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Mercedes-benz - E-class :: ABS / EPS And BAS Warning Lights Come On And Goes Away

I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.

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Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Just Quit And Would Not Start

While on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...

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Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Difficult Start - CEL On?

The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?

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Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Mystery Leak In The Hydraulic

I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.

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Mercedes-benz - Clk-class :: Hydraulic Lines Broke Again

I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?

It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!

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Mercedes-benz - E-class :: Squeaky Brakes Particularly When Backing Up

My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?

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