C/K :: 1997 K1500 Parasitic Drain On Battery
I have a parasitic drain on my battery. 4.5 amps to be exact. I've tracked it down to the CTSY fuse or Fuse 3 in the fuse block. When I pull the fuse it drops to 40 mA which is pretty normal.
What is the most likely cause of this drain since my lights seems to be working and shut off when the doors are shut? I've almost got the dash ripped apart to get at the wiring harness but hopefully I can find it before taking the whole dash out.
Suzuki - Forenza :: 2006 - Old Battery And Rate Of Parasitic Drain?
I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza with original battery, so it's been about 9.5 years now. Yesterday, I couldn't start the car, and it made a few rapid clicks on trying to start it. I didn't have time to deal with it so took a spare car to work. Came home to check/try the car and it had so little charge that dashboard lights, automatic door locks, etc. didn't work, the warning indicator lights that light up on turning power on barely lit up. Seems like the battery was nearly discharged. I'm attempting to have it charged with an external charger right now to check on the car later (and try to check for parasitic drain), have the battery tested, and bring the car to mechanic for a more thorough inspection (I'm not a car person).
I was just wondering though in the meantime: did I get lucky to get nearly 10 years of life out of a car's factory installed battery? and that it's likely time for a new battery regardless of whether the battery still holds charge? The car was working fine the previous day, I never had to jump start the car. Although I had trouble starting car once or twice in the past, but that just required waiting a bit and attempting to start car again - may have been warm weather related. It just failed yesterday, and I don't recall leaving headlights on or things like that. I'm just wondering had my car been parasitically draining already and just hit a critical point yesterday (slow drain before but faster drain at some point like yesterday), or can parasitic drain just happen all of a sudden like fine one day, then some drain/short the next that kills the battery.
Subaru - Outback :: 2005 - Battery / Alternator / Starter / Parasitic Drain Fine But Dies?
What is wrong with her car. It is an 05 subaru outback 3.0. She bought it 4 months ago. A week ago the battery died at red light. It tested bad and was replaced. Then yesterday it died at stop sign. Jumped it and died in 5 seconds. Before dying, car would not rev. Jumped it leaving cables on for 5 minutes since battery was almost drained. She made it half mile back to office and coasted into lot. Battery tested good but drained and was fully charged. Alternator tested 7 times to be certain. We bought a 10A multimeter (our town has no 20A).
Tested for parasitic drain. No results. We took Alternator off and tested a couple more times. We took out non essential fuses to be safe. Nothing was left running. There was a phone charger that has been plugged in for the whole four months. She took it out for good measure. Starter tested good. 3 people said battery cables are good. They appear to be non corroded and tight imo as well. They checked fuel pump. All was well.
She wants to go on vacation for the 4th but is scared to try. Mechanic friend said wait until it happens again, go to o reileys and demand them replace the battery as it has to be bad even if testing good. I'm not sure of this is the correct approach, but what else is there? One online mechanic said a voltage test on electrical system is next step but only a few select mechanics even know how to do it such as one that specializes in electrical wiring or something like that.
Mazda - B4000 :: Hesitation And Surge After 25 Mph
After having my whole clutch system replaced..the truck now hesitates after 25mph shift 35, 45 and so, on it does not have a rough idle, it is like it has a hard time going then gets a burst of gas or air or will power and runs great till the next shift..,after replacing air filter, fuel filter. fuel pump & regulator, tps sensor co2 sensors and cleaning maf/map and fuel injectors, is using lots of gas too..the truck is still not happy, spent hours checking for pinched vacuum or fuel or eclectically lines.. Oddest thing, it won't throw any codes.. 1994 mazda b4000...
View 3 RepliesMazda - B4000 :: 2000 - Take Time To Turn Over?
I have a 2000 Mazda B4000 with 2 little problems I don't know anything about. First is when I go to start the truck it takes a long time to turn over. A friend of mine said that a valve is not maintaining fuel pressure so the fuel is not sitting ready for the starter when I go to start up. But if i engage the key for a few seconds and time it right it will turn over easily (apparently allowing the fuel pressure to build to the appropriate level). Is this a little valve or gasket or something I can replace to maintain the pressure?
Second, when I'm coming from a stop or accelerating out of a slow roll there is a 'shudder' or 'shiver' in the drivetrain that almost feels like the shift from 1st to 2nd is just kinda lumpy. It also happens if I come to an abrupt stop, so gearing down into 1st. It doesn't feel like something that is getting worse, but I don't want it to be causing damage or have my driveshaft snap or something.Other than that this truck seems really well maintained by the previous owner, and a mechanically inclined friend of mine said everything else looks.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1995 Mazda B4000 - 4wd Light Blinking 6X Then Go Off
So i just bought a b4000 pickup 5spd .. Anyway the truck has eletrical 4x4 with manual hubs. When i turn the switch nothing happens. The 4wd/4wd low lights both flash 6x then go off then flash again while running , driving, koeo, anytime like an obd1 check engine light code flashing. Anyway i checked the wiring for the 4wd switch no power, went to the fuse interior no pwr, went to the engine fuse box power. You don't hear the transfer case engage at all as well.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1998 Mazda B4000 - Missing Enough To Shake The Truck At Around 80 Km/hr
So Im working on a 1998 mazda b4000, frost plug blew out going down the highway changed the engine because it got cooked pretty bad. The wrecker engine I got for what ever reason will only run good if the driver side of coil pack is done 5,6,4 any other order truck wont run at all. Misses enough to shake the truck at around 80 km/hr otherwise its pretty good. Also the engine I got came factory with no egr.... no provisions nothing. exhaust manifold capped off, seemed kinda odd.
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 B4000 - Fuel Pressure Regulator Leaking Down
My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
View 11 RepliesMazda - Protege :: 1998 - Engine Block Drain Plug Location?
I'm in the process of changing the coolant on my 98 Mazda Protege LX. I have the radiator drained and rinsed out. Now I want to get the rest of the coolant out. Where the engine block drain plug is on this car? My Haynes manual shows a picture of the location but It's of a different model.
View 12 RepliesMazda - Mx-3 :: 1994 GS Dies As Soon As Put It In Gear
I have a Mazda MX3 V6 it's a 1994, anyways the cars starts and runs fine, you can rev it up and it don't stall sputter or anything, but as soon as you put it in gear it dies, just seeing what may be going on with it. Also I just put a new IAC vavle on the car. don't think that has anything to do with it, but this is the 1st time I have ever worked on a mazda, and just as a side note, the car ran good for about 2 days after the install of the IAC.
View 2 RepliesMazda - B2300 :: 1994 - What Is Open Allowing Too Much Coolant Flow
I inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
View 4 RepliesMazda - Miata :: 1994 - Clunking Noise From Trunk On Bumps?
I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 RepliesMazda - Mx-6 :: 1994 - Chugging Noise When Drives Slow And Screeches When Idling
My friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
View 1 RepliesMazda - Protege :: 1994 - Brake Pedal High And Hard And No Response When Depressed
A couple weeks ago the front brakes were done on the Mazda. Then the wheel bearings needed to be done. I think the shop outsourced what I guess was the packing of the bearings. I paid for the work, and drove away, nearly, but didn't because I had no brakes and there I was pulling out into 5:00 PM traffic. The emergency brake saved me. I walked back into the shop and they discovered the power brake booster had broken. I wonder, because if you drove the Mazda to park it in the shop lot where the customers pick up the vehicles after repairs are made, wouldn't you notice that there is no braking action. The brake pedal was high and hard and there was literally no response when I depressed it.
The shop keeper said, darn I guess I'll have to replace this, meaning pay for it, since it (may have) happened when the bearings were being worked on. My question is, is there any reason why working on bearings might end up breaking the brake booster? Chances are, it was just coincidence, right? or? I don't know. Because the car is old, he had to take several days to find the part. Anyway, he sent me off and told me to drive it carefully. The drive home was absolutely nervewracking and required continual tugging up on the emergency brake stick. I wonder if they despise my car so much now that they are sending me off to drive in it in such an unsafe condition. Anyway, hoping it will be fixed tomorrow. But my question still is ... would working on bearings possibly be cause for breaking the brake booster?
Ford Audio/Video System :: Drain Tube On Right Front Kinked And Water Overflow Drip Tray On Sunroof And Down The A Pillar
I have an 09 f350 lariat with the factory 6 disc, sync system. Problem is the sunroof drain tube on the right front kinked and allowed water to overflow the drip tray on the sunroof and down the "A" pillar. The water then dripped onto the inertia fuel pump switch and then onto the sync module. I disassembled the module to dry and coat the circuit board with dielectric spray but one of the transistors is corroded and therefore the module is rendered useless. I have contacted the ford dealer for replacement module but no luck, even with the original part number on the sync module, or as ford calls it " Accessory Protocol Interface Module" My question is: can I get a module from another vehicle.
View 1 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Parasitic Draw / Battery Is Slowly Discharging
With the hood open and the hood light bulb pulled out, measured the parasitic draw on their truck? I checked mine because it appears my battery is slowly discharging if the truck sits 3 or 4 days. I got 0.24 amps which seems in line with running the clock memory and the computer. I have a feeling the battery is shot even though it is only 3 years old. When I bought the truck it had a ton of yellow fuzz on the terminals. That is cleaned up and with it running I get about 14.35 volts at idle so it is charging. 0.24 draw??
View 10 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Replacing Batteries Repeatedly - Parasitic Draw?
I have a 2006 F250. Past two winters my batteries have died. Last yr., bought 2 new batteries and a new alternator. This winter, battries have been replaced twice. I only drive the truck maybe once a week, about 5 miles total. I live in Indiana and we have had many sub zero temps this yr. Its been in the shop all week, the mechanic states that they are finding an extremely small draw but cannot find where it is coming from. The mechanic is wondering if I am driving it enough. Any thoughts on this? Also my batteries came from auto zone, the mechanics thought it was bad that I had bought them from auto zone.....not sure if that should even be a factor....
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 B4000 - Broken Center Armrest
I have a 2000 b 4000 broken armrest trying everything to fix keeps breaking on plastic below. And how long before it breaks again!!! Ford ....
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2001 B4000 - Radio Interference / Steady Static Noise On AM Only
This interference correlates directly to tire rotation speed, engine rpm has no effect. Under about 5mph it won't make the noise, but over that you hear a pop more or less for every rotation of the tire and when you hit say 50mph it is just a steady static noise on AM only. Haven't pulled the head unit yet, checked several body grounds under the hood and all are good. Don't know if a damaged wheel sensor could cause an issue or not.
View 4 Replies