Touareg :: 2004 Misfires - Rough Idle And Hesitating / Shaking Under Acceleration

It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.

Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.

The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)

Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.

Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:

1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)

2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)

3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )

4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)

5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)

6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)

7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)

Pulled codes 1 week ago:

1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)

2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)

3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)

4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)

Pulled codes tonight:

1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)

2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)

3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)

4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)

Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:

1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)

2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)

3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)

4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)

5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)

6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )

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I have some major problems with my explorer. The idle is rough and accelerating is rough also. If I nearly put it to the floor it almost seems like it studders the power. it will feel great for a second that feels like it's less power for a second then more and less and more and less. When I'm sitting at idle, it will idle fine then after a minute or so it will bog way down and shake the whole vehicle. when that happens I give it some gas and it comes back to normal idle then it does it again after sitting for another minute. I've replaced spark plugs, wires, alternator, oil change and some tires. I've been told by many mechanics it could be the IAC Valve or the fuel pump or the fuel filter or a vacuum leak.

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Something I learned today: My car was made in 10/95. Apparently, I can scan for trouble codes?!? How and where? Is it OBD I or II or something else? Dumb question: I can't even get the interior engine shroud off. I found three clamps, but it still hangs up near the top. What am I missing?

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Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.

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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.

Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.

Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI

No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.

336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.

Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.

Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.

Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?

Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?

Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.

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So I had this acceleration problem on the highway when I was going up a hill. And a weak idle. These problems have been going on for several months now. They were annoying, but didn't seem that serious. Then all of a sudden, on a rainy day, the car was really responding poorly to acceleration at all speeds. I was able to drive around, but I couldn't count on the car responding right away when I hit the gas pedal. And the car would shudder at times. Then, I didn't drive the car for a few days, and then it was dry, no rain, and the car ran better. So I am thinking humidity makes the problem worse.

I have also noticed over the past few months, that the car runs best when I start it up after a few days of not running it. Then if I drive the car a few miles and let it sit for about 2 hours or so, it would idle weakly when I would start it up again. The car's been doing that for several months now, but it wasn't really affecting the drivability or the response of the car when I hit the gas pedal.

Now it's gotten much worse. So, I've already replaced the following items myself to no avail: mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor, and egr valve. I am guessing the next thing to fix is the pcv valve. But I also think it might be the fuel pump. My first guess though is the pcv valve. What else could it be? And is there any easy way to test to see if the fuel pump is going bad? Or should I just take out the pcv valve and see if it looks bad?

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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.

Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.

Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.

However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?

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This never triggers the "check engine light". New fuel filter, plugs and wires.

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Unfortunately, neither had any impact. The missing continued to become more noticeable. It was never present under acceleration. Most of it was like a split-second long version of "bucking" that could be observed while cruising at lower (<2000) RPMs. It was also very noticeable at idle. Eventually a code was set: P0341, camshaft sensor issue. If the story had ended there, it would have been just another night in the garage. But it didn't.

As I was noticing the aforementioned symptom increase, I also noticed my voltmeter would occasionally "twitch" in the downward direction. Eventually I had an incident where I came to a stoplight... transmission in Drive, foot on brake, gauge dropped to around 10-11v. It returned to 14v momentarily, but dropped back down, held there for several seconds, returned, etc. No particular rhyme or rhythm. Of course my first guess was that the alternator was failing; a separate problem from the other.

I checked all the relevant connections (at the battery, at the alternator, etc), and cleaned them for good measure. All were tight, relatively clean, and the cables showed no resistance on the ohmmeter. It happened that I had another correct alternator on hand (used/working pull), so I swapped it in. No change. I reinstalled the original and was back where I started.

On my most recent drive, I noticed both issues had become very noticeable. The drop in voltage was happening at nearly every stop, and the missing was happening a few times per minute while coasting along. There seemed to be some correlation between the missing and voltage fluctuating, but it wasn't absolute.

I decided to attack the voltage issue again. Re-checked all the cables; same result as before (all OK). Looked all over the car for possible bad grounds, loose connections, or other visible problems, but found none. My next thought was to run a jumper from B+ to the voltage regulator's Sense input (have seen issues there on more than a few older vehicles) - but after reading that this car uses the PCM as the voltage regulator, I didn't proceed.

Just to be certain I'm going to have the alternator tested by the local auto parts store. But I suspect it'll pass.

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