Golf IV R32 :: Flutter Sound When Clutch Pedal Pressed Down
Going through the drive thru tonight and I heard a weird noise coming from the engine area. Get home and pull into the garage and here a flutter sound when my clutch pedal was pressed down, let go of the pedal no noise. While driving the car around clutch pressure seems fine and no slippage of any kind.
View 2 RepliesFord - Explorer :: Brake Pedal Vibrates When Pressed Down
When I press the pedal down the pedal vibrates and make an odd sound like errrrrrrrrrrrr best way I can explain it...
View 5 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Brake Pedal Vibrates When Fully Pressed In Drive
When brake pedal is fully pressed and my car is in drive the pedal vibrates. The only thing I thought of is that my intake is touching something, but I don't see anything.
View 8 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Engine Cuts Out / Switches Off When Accelerator Pedal Pressed
Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 RepliesPontiac - Montana :: 2002 - Transaxle Will Not Downshift With Accelerator Pedal Pressed To The Floor
02 Montana with 4T65E electronic 4 speed transmission. car has 75000 miles. normal driving and shifting seems to be fine. Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor. no check or service engine lights.
View 1 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Stalling When Accelerator Pedal Is Pressed And Released
I have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.
Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..
Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.
The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.
The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.
That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)
The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.
Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.
I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.
Symptoms:
When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)
When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.
The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.
Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Engine Dies When Pedal Pressed Down / Revs And Then Quits When Pedal Is Pressed Slowly
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
Honda - Accord :: 1999 - Clutch Pedal Vibrates After Shifting
Had my original clutch replaced by mechanic. Had 200K on it. Car clutch petal vibrates badly when bringing clutch pedal out after shifting. Mechanic states it has to do with motor mounts that were affected when changing clutch or the clutch takes time to seal and stop vibrating in the next 500 miles. I have warranty for 12 months and 12,000 miles. Which I had no problem of vibration before having clutch replaced? What is the problem and how to proceed.
View 3 RepliesToyota Corolla :: 2010 - Continuous Squeaky Noise When Clutch Pedal Not Pressed
2010 Toyota Corolla 59 k kilometers ... I recently bought this car pre-owned by the dealership. I am having it inspected again next week on the Monday.
The car makes a continuous squeaky noise like metal rubbing together when the clutch pedal is not being pressed. The sound stops when pressing the clutch pedal. I opened the hood of my car while the engine was running and found that the part responsible for the noise, but I do not know what this is and wanted to be a little more educated before putting money down on a problem that i can't understand. The sound is heavier when the car speeds up or on high revs. It seems the piece in the picture is rattling.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Shudders And Slips When Car Is In Gear And Accelerator Pressed
I've noticed lately that my Mk4 Jetta isn't accelerating the way it used to. It's an '03 5-speed 2.0L, and while the engine idles more or less normally as far as I can tell, when the car is in gear and I press the accelerator, it shudders and "slips", like an an automatic with a bad transmission.
I've checked things out with my OBD2 reader and it's not reporting any codes, no trouble indicator lights, etc., but it's definitely not responding the way it should. I just had it in for a tune-up recently, thinking it was an engine problem, but I don't think that fixed it.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Sputtering / Jumping Periodically When Pressed The Accelerator
My 2002 VW Jetta 1.8t has recently taken a dump and had been sputtering jumping periodically when I pressed the accelerator. It had started several months ago and has become progressively worse until it didn't start anymore. Usually I could turn it off and then turn it on again and it would be fine. Not anymore.
I checked it out, the fuel pump, engine speed sensor and fuel pump relay had all been shot so my initial thought was to check for a broken wire somewhere if it had been shorting. All wires are intact but i can't find the ground connector for the fuel pump. Where is it located? I have checked and serviced all other grounds, have replaced fuel pump, relay and speed sensor. The injectors are getting juice but aren't working (the injectors themselves are still good)
Also, there are three connectors behind the relay bar underneath the dash where the fuel pump relay is located. What order they are supposed to be? There is blue, red and green. They were disconnected (not my idea) and now I don't know how they go back.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Start - Tow Haul Light On When Clutch Pedal Pressed?
Had a No start issue.Turn the key and nothing. Could hear the relays click so knew it wasn't the ignition. Could jump the starter via the wire on the passenger fender so starter good. Replaced the clutch position switch last night. Still have no start but now when I press clutch I have a tow haul light come on dash.If I press it again it turns off. Truck doesn't have tow haul option installed. I hear a relay clicking under the dash too. This is a 2004 Superduty (F550). Replaced the ignition switch today and still same.
View 3 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: 2011 - Unable To Rev Beyond 4000 RPM In Neutral, Or In 1st With Clutch Pressed
I have a 2011 GTI 6MT, APR tuned. I am unable to rev beyond 4000 RPM in neutral, or in 1st with clutch pressed. Parking brake on/off doesn't matter either. I don't rev my engine at stop lights or anything stupid like that, I just found this out because a member on here suggested that I rev the engine up to test for an issue with something else, and I found this 4000 RPM limiter. Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 VW Jerks And Dies When Gas Pedal Is Pressed
I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).
If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.
Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.
Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Knocking Noise On Front Left Side When Clutch Pressed
So, I'm having this weird knocking noise on front left (drivers) side. It appears when I'm accelerating and stops immediately when i press clutch.. The noise gets stronger if i accelerate fast and gets faster, faster i go. Surprisingly the noise stops when i lift my car up and starts again at my drive height. Could it be driveshaft joints? And which one more likely? Outer maybe?
View 5 RepliesPrius (Gen 2) :: Whine-like Noise That Only Happens When Accelerator Is Pressed
2006, 112k mi. there's been a whine-like noise that only happens when the accelerator is pressed ( and mostly noticed at highway speeds) and stops immediately when accelerator is released..
View 10 RepliesTiguan :: Shakes / Vibrates While Going 40 Or 60 - 65 And Gently Pressing On Accelerator
Just picked it up on Saturday. 2010 WE, 39,500 miles. Ran great all weekend. This morning, on my way to work, I merge onto the highway, and BAM! Check engine light comes on. Now the car Shakes / vibrates while going 40, or 60-65, and gently pressing on the accelerator.
It shakes at idle, while in Drive, with the brakes on. It seems to have lost power, and the engine sounds like a manual car if you were to try to start from a dead-stop in fifth gear. I've taken it back to the dealership, and they are checking it out. Wondering what the heck happened.
I should also point out that on Saturday, the second I got home, an "Air Bag Error" warning came on, and hasn't gone away.
Passat (B6) :: 2005 - Engine Is Not Responding When Accelerator Pressed
Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Clinking Sound When Accelerator Pressed At 60 Mph
My son was driving our 02 Santa fe 2.7 V6 Auto down to plymouth, half way down the engine gave a clinking sound (Rev Dependent). When he was doing 60MPH and pressed accelerator, no power. Stopped at road side couldn't restart. (no warning lights) RAC turned up and thought it was the cam belt and said engine right off. Got car towed home and just started to strip down for cam belt check. Belt seems OK. Timing marks line up.
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