Prius (2001-03) :: Starting Malfunction - When Gas Pedal Pressed Down Engine Revs Up But Nothing Moves

I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.

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Civic - Honda :: Engine Would Rev When Gas Pedal Pressed But Car Would Not Go

I have replaced the computer in a Honda Civic twice. The first time the car was acting like it wasn't getting power;the engine would rev when the gas pedal was pressed but the car would not go! so the computer was replaced, and two weeks later,t he same thing happened. They said it was a short and would not replace the computer-it was our problem. Finally, they agreed to replace the part. Got the car back, fixed a ouple of othere things and now, two weeks later, the same thing is happening. Car acts like it's not getting any power, and this time the check iengine light came on. The car has a new altenator, new battery, and the after-factory radio has been removed..

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Engine Dies If Gas Pedal Pressed / Truck Will Not Start

I have a 2006 F150 that cranks but will not start. I sprayed ether into intake and got it to start but engine dies if gas pedal pressed. It idles after starting just will not accelerate.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 VW Jerks And Dies When Gas Pedal Is Pressed

I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).

If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.

Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.

Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?

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Honda - Accord :: When Push On Gas Pedal Car Will Not Go Any Farther And Engine Just Revs

We have a 2004 Honda Accord V6 with 178,000 miles and the car is giving us some issues. We can drive the car for 10-15 minutes with no issues. Then when we push on the gas pedal, the car will not go any farther and the engine just revs. If we turn the car off and restart it, the car will continue to drive. There are no check engine lights on the car. Could these be a transmission issue?

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Accord :: 1993 LX - Loud Belt Squealing When Start Cold / Engine Revs When Brakes Pressed

I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.

First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?

Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?

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Bmw - 525 :: 2002 - Warmed Engine Stops When Gas Pedal Is Pressed

My 02 BMW 525i engine starts to stop running when the gas pedal is pressed. The engine starts and drives fine when the engine is cold. However, after driving for a while like more than 20 miles, I mean when the engine warms up already, the engine suddenly stops when the gas pedal is pressed, like stopping in the traffic light or STOP sign and starts to drive. I replaced the idle air control valve, but it does not work. What should I check next?

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Lexus LS 2007+ :: Starting Engine Without Brake Pedal Having To Be Pressed

Requiring that the brake pedal be depressed in order to start the engine can be a nuisance, say if the driver is out of the vehicle and the passenger wants to start the engine to run the A/C, etc.

There is a workaround though. Press the engine start switch once to go into ACC mode, then press and hold it for 15 seconds and the engine will start without the brake pedal having to be pressed.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Cuts Out / Switches Off When Accelerator Pedal Pressed

Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.

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Toyota - Camry :: 1999 - Brake Light Comes On Sporadically / Pedal Needs To Be Pressed Down Farther

I have a 99 Toyota Camry and recently the breaklight has been coming on and off sporadically. I assumed I had done some damage to my E-break, as the other week I tried to back out with it on (cut me some slack, I just moved to PA after having only really driven in FL lol). I wasn't worried about it since I didn't notice any issues with my breaks, however the last few days I randomly have to press the pedal down almost to the floor to come to a full stop. There doesn't seem to be any consistency to this, sometimes it happens when the light is on but usually not. It does it both when I am stopped (causing me to move forward slightly till I depress it farther), sometimes when I am stopping normally, both when I'm going straight and right after turning, ect.

I checked my break fluid level and it is at the minimum line so I doubt that is the issue. I did some research and saw many saying that it was likely just air in the lines and that the system needed to be bled. But some also mentioned replacing the master cylinder so I wanted to see what response I might get on here (I don't know very much about cars myself).

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 V6 - Squeal Sound Coming From Engine Compartment When Gas Pedal Pressed

Ok, my question is, when gas pedal is pressed half or more down-ward, a squeal sounding is coming from engine compartment. 2003 ranger v-6 3.0 flex....

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - No Voltage At Plug When Brake Pedal Pressed?

Installed Tekonsha P3 on my 2000 F350 I used the recommend pig tail easy hookup when I press brake pedal no voltage at plug but when I move the manual lever I get voltage. I believe the stop light switch activates it. The fuses all check out. I did have a Banks engine brake installed by their people I don't know if makes a difference

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Jet Sound When Pressed The Pedal And Got Louder As Speed Increased

I have a 2004 Ford f-250 super duty 6.0 turbo diesel. I noticed yesterday that it was making a jet sound when i pressed the pedal and got louder as i increased the speed. When you let go of the pedal it goes away. I have asked around and some say it could be the turbo...the diesel mechanic THINKS it could be the fan clutch. The truck doesn't overheat and if i punch it i don't think i sense any loss of performance. All I know is that it makes this sound like a plane taking off.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F350 Stalling When Accelerator Pedal Is Pressed And Released

I have an issue with my 1999 Ford F350 7.3L diesel and stalling when the accelerator pedal is pressed and released.

Background: Initially the truck would not start, and from there here are all the things that I found wrong and replaced. (keep in mind that I troubleshot all the issues and every part that was replaced was proven faulty)... Starting with the glow plugs, all but 3 were faulty and not making a connection to ground. (only one broke off in the head, but I was able to get it out with out getting anything in the cyl)..

Valve cover gasket and harnesses, this is to include replacing the connectors on the engine harness cause both sides of the connectors were broken. The ICP was leaking into the connector and breaking the connection to the PCM, so the connector was cleaned and the sensor replaced. No issues from that now.

The IPR was replaced cause the oil pressure was erratic and not stable when I had my pressure gauge hooked up testing the pressure. After that was replaced the pressure was ok, and it climbed with RPM's and fell back down like it was suppose to. I could not get the PSI up to 3000 PSI even at full RPM's, but it did not drop past 600 psi.

The fuel tank was recently replaced, and all the fuel was removed and "fresh/good" fuel was put in. The fuel bowl was cleaned out and the filter replaced. (the fuel bowl did have a lot of crap in it like rust and dirt). Fuel pressure was at 95 PSI last time I checked, which is higher than the recommended 60 to 65 PSI.

That being said the engine did start and run, but was very rough and missing. So I did all the injector o-rings. Some o-rings were starting to split, and others were not sealing like the copper washer on the injector tip. I could tell by the amount of crap in the end of the injector. ( not the tip, but where the injector contacts the injector cup. There must have been water in there or something cause that part had all kinds of crap around it)

The engine smoothed out after a couple day of running it, but it would still stall when it was cold. The block heater was replaced cause it was falling out. The oil was changed and the filter too. The CMP sensor was changed just because I know they will cause the engine not to start. I had a "known good" truck that I can swap part to and from, and I did a lot of that thus far.

Swapped the IDM, PCM, EBP sensor, MAP sensor, all relays inside the engine and in the cab. I was looking for the barometric pressure sensor, but from what I have read thus far that is a calculation in the PCM between the MAP and the EBP sensors. The diode to the PCM is good,I checked the harness for rubbing by the 42 pin connector and by the LF fender but I did not find any chaffing or rubbing on any wires. The ECPR was wired together, so I fixed it so that it is no longer that way, and the waste gate for the turbo was wired open. I took the wire off and made sure the linkage worked and it did move. I tried to lube up the valve in the turbo for back pressure, but I'm not sure if it worked or not.

I also swapped out the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure temp sensor on the HPOP Reservoir, and blew out the EBP sensors tube. (air went straight through the tube with no restrictions.) I did a buzz test and all the coils checked out ok. I also did a contribution test and only three cylinders were identified as having some kind of issue. (but this is not enough to cause the engine to stall..) The only current codes that I have are the air intake heater, and the EF feedback not detected. Neither of which would cause the engine to stall in my opinion.

Symptoms:

When cold: The engine will start and idle just fine, but when the accelerator is pressed and held to 1000 RPM's the engine will sputter like its missing and surge up and down between 500 and 1100 RPM's. If the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly the engine speed to increase then fall down and stall. It seems as if the PCM is shutting down and starting back up. ( Like the key is turned off and then back on quickly, but the engine doesn't recover)

When warming: This issue becomes more erratic, but when hot the engine is fine. No issues, and it will drive all day long with no hesitation.

The truck has over 200K on it, but I know it will go more! It is a mannuel tranny, and is a 4X4, and I love it, I can't get ride of it just yet.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: No Start - Tow Haul Light On When Clutch Pedal Pressed?

Had a No start issue.Turn the key and nothing. Could hear the relays click so knew it wasn't the ignition. Could jump the starter via the wire on the passenger fender so starter good. Replaced the clutch position switch last night. Still have no start but now when I press clutch I have a tow haul light come on dash.If I press it again it turns off. Truck doesn't have tow haul option installed. I hear a relay clicking under the dash too. This is a 2004 Superduty (F550). Replaced the ignition switch today and still same.

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Honda - Accord :: Brake Pedal Loses Pressure And Slowly Sinks To The Floor In Warm Weather

I have a problem about which the mechanics I have asked are baffled: In cool, cloudy or sunny weather, my brakes and break-pedal pressure are fine (the mechanics have said I have good fluid, brakes, etc.--they can find nothing wrong--and, of course, it never has a problem when they test-drive my car). However, when the weather warms up and it's a bright, sunny day, my brake pedal loses pressure and slowly sinks to the floor--a dangerous thing at intersections. There's slight pressure if I pump the pedal constantly while at a light; but, without pumping, the pedal immediately sinks to the floor.

This is a real problem, because this problem always occurs right when mechanics are not near or not open for business--and none I've talked to have ever heard of such a problem. The bright, hot sun's affect seems to be key, because if it's 80 degrees outside and cloudy, I don't have the issue--but, then again, I don't usually run the air conditioner if it's cloudy. As such, I'm not positive; but, this may be tied to when I turn on the air conditioner--as though the two share the same vacuum system.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: F250 - Brake Lights Don't Work / Power Going Out When Pedal Is Pressed

I'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 Will Not Downshift With Pedal Pressed To Floor At Medium Speeds

Recently my F350 has failed to downshift when the accelerator pedal is pressed to the floor to speed up in traffic. It will usually happen when traveling at speeds in the 30's-40's. It will shift quickly at slower speeds. I have a scan guage on it all the time and it is not throwing any codes.

The transmission has only been serviced by the dealer; last done about 24000 miles ago. No leaks or low fluids/no burned smells. Stock setup with no heavy towing use. Currently at 228000+ miles, this is the first issue with the transmission assuming I am looking at the right area for the cause.

2005 F350 XLT 4WD

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Chevrolet - Camaro :: Engine Almost Dies For Just A Second Then Revs Up If Just Punch Gas Pedal In Neutral

I just picked up my new 2014 Chevrolet Camaro with the V6 and 6 speed manual transmission. If I just punch the gas pedal when in neutral, the engine almost dies for just a second but then rev's up normally. It seems like a burst of gas chocks out the engine. I have tried the same thing in other Camaro's and the engine rev's up normally as soon as you punch the gas pedal.

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