Azera TG (2006-11) :: ESC Light On And Steering Stiffness
I have a 2006 Azera Limited with 180k miles. I just replaced the rack & pinion, inner tie rods, outer tie rods, front axles, and the valve cover gasket over the weekend. I had the alignment done this morning.
Although there are no more leaks (p/s fluid from rack and pinion and motor oil from valve cover gasket), I did notice a couple of things. First, the "ESC off" light off comes on when I start driving. The light is turned off when I start the car. Second, the steering feels a bit firm. It was softer before the parts were replaced. Shouldn't it be the other way around (firm before replacing the parts and soft after replacing them)?
Gmc - Safari :: 2004 Van Won't Go Over 45 Mph
My sister has a 2004 GMC safari van. A few months ago, the van started having a very rough shift and excessive revving. we took it to a mechanic who found a transmission leak. they fixed the leak and recommended that we use Lucas oil transmission fluid to work with the rough shift. since then things have gone from bad to worse.
The van will not go over 45 mph. the engine excessively at 35 mph. After 35 mph, it appears something also goes wrong in the electrical system. At 35-40 mph, my dash goes from lit to dark. Also i have lost the use of my power locks and since this issue began, i have lost use of 2 of 3 of my cigarette lighters. What is happening here??.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Little Stiffness In Steering
05 F250 4x4 6.0... Lately, I have noticed a little stiffness in my steering. Mainly when I turn left - it just feels like the truck doesn't want to come back to center like it should...almost like a tire is low on air (they're not - I checked) or a tire has laid over.
I have checked power steering fluid and looked at all bushings underneath. Any chance that the steering stabilizer could be causing this issue? Also...do these trucks not have any grease fittings in the front end? I have looked twice and still haven't found any (in my defense, I haven't had the truck very long)...
Toyota - Tacoma :: 1996 - While Braking Front End Vibrates?
This is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD, 2.4L. When I apply the brakes I get a very heavy vibration in the front end, almost like a wobble. The vehicle otherwise stops fine. No noises. The vibration occurs at pretty much any speed over 20 mph. The frequency does not seem tied to the actual speed but it's hard to tell for sure. It does not do it when I apply the emergency brake only.
I replaced the front disk brake pads, with new clips and shims. There were worn down pretty far and needed replacing. Unfortunately that did not make any difference in the vibration. Rotor runout and minumum thickness were checked while changing the disk brake pads and both were within specs. I did a quick inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends by trying to move the tire and everything seems tight enough.
I'm not very proficient on suspension issues. What else can I look for.
GMC - Safari :: 2000 - Max Blower Position Does Not Blow At All
Symptoms:1. The max blower position does not blow at all, but the other positions blow just a little (heat and a/c).2. The heater seems to take a bit to get going. Once it is hot, it seems to do okay.
Questions:1. What steps do I take in a logical order to fix this? Resistor, blower motor, thermostat, heater core?2. This is a loaner van from a family friend. Should I do anything to it? They want to sell it and I am interested in it, but I don't want to start fixing stuff if I am not going to own the thing - unless it is an easy repair under $100.
Mercury - Villager :: 1996 - Noise And Braking Effect Simultaneously?
96 Mercury Villager: moaning sound, breaking effect at same time..what? Everything is well maintained. There is obviously something that has been missed.
View 1 RepliesGmc - Safari :: 1997 - Engine Cranks And Won't Start Until Towed
I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
View 2 RepliesGmc - Safari :: 1999 - Misfiring At Cruising Speeds Of 65mph
This van has 200,000 plus miles doesn't leak any fluids but it has a cruising speed miss, that sometimes seems to want to shut it down I have had it in several shops and a g m dealer ship, so far no one has been able to fix the problem, it has had plugs, wires, mass air, coils all changed at least twice, the fuel pressure is 50lbs when I bought the van it had 76 000 miles and it had a miss then and has continued to have the miss , I have not had the injectors replaced is there anything other than injectors that could cause this problem? at speeds of 65mph and above it miss,s badley.
View 2 RepliesGMC - Suburban :: 1996 - Hard Time Braking When Making Sharp Turn
When turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
View 7 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1996 2WD V6 - Mild Bucking / Pulling Sensation When Braking
I have a 1996 Ford Explorer 2WD V6 that runs pretty well. It has approx 270,000 miles on it. My issue is whenever I stop, there seems to be a mild jerk as the truck comes to a stop. It feels like it's the wheel, but I am not sure. I was thinking it was the rotors and was going to replace them. The jerking isn't violent; instead it's almost as if the truck is bucking. It's probably not even a visible buck, but instead something you feel.
View 2 RepliesCamry :: Brake Pedal Sinks To The Floor When Braking
A friend brought me a car with the issue that the brake pedal sinks to the floor when braking. She said it was never low on fluid so I replaced the master cylinder and bled all of the lines with a friend pumping the pedal. The pedal would still sink to the floor. I tried vacuum bleeding the brakes and found that the front left consistently had large bubbles.
I Teflon taped the fitting on the calliper and the bleed screw which improved the problem but didn't fix it. I then replaced the calliper. The front left calliper still won't bleed and the brake pedal still goes to the floor. When I bleed it the regular way, the fluid comes out of the bleeder like it bled nicely. Neither of the rubber hoses that connect to the calliper have any visible damage. I had a friend pump the brakes while looking at the hoses and their is no bulge or swelling in them. Could the ABS need to be bled?
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Pedal Pulsating When Braking
When braking i would feel the pedal pulsating...figured the pads were finished. Checked them out and they were not in that great a shape so I changed them all around. I'm still getting a pulsating feeling in the brake pedal.... I just need to bleed them or are the discs warn or warped or something?
View 8 RepliesLexus LX 2008+ :: Pedal Travels About 2 Inch Before Braking Or Deceleration
2011 LX57O. There is one moderate annoyance with it: its brakes. The pedal travels about 2" before I can feel any meaningful braking or deceleration, and after those 2" the braking force becomes quite disproportionate to the additional pedal travel, may be another 0.5", it brakes quite hard. So, it has become increasingly difficult to brake consistently. Dealer service has told us "this is normal."
We had the brake fluid changed twice already, and pedal feel improves noticeably after each change and gets worse from that point on. Our 2000 model Land Cruiser pedal feel is superb, all stock, and it is much more rewarding to drive and drive consistently.
Phaeton :: Slight Cyclic Vibration / Pedal Pressure On Braking
I had the discs replaced by VW UK & my VW garage a few months ago (V6 TDI) , car was close to 3 years and ~50K miles. There was a slight cyclic vibration/ pedal pressure on braking, not easy to detect, but from once you knew it was there it was annoying. I was not convinced the replacement was 100% successful, but it was not until I had 4 new tyres fitted and all rebalanced last week that I could clearly see that I still have the problem, maybe even worse than before the discs were replaced.
2 Queries
-Is there anything else that can cause the same brake pedal feel, other than a warped disc: a bend in a suspension component or the like? I query this as I bent an wheel last year in a huge pothole and wondered if this could have damaged something
-I have found a local company with an on-wheel disc skimming machine that I understand can be excellent to resolve these issues. Maybe this would be the way to go.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2002 - Brake Pedal Has Bad Judder On It When Braking
I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
View 1 RepliesCaravan/Voyager :: 1996 - Brake Pedal Keeps Going Down To Floor
I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
View 3 RepliesChevrolet - Colorado :: 1996 - Brake Pedal Whistles
1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
View 9 RepliesThunderbird :: 1996 - No Brake Pedal - 4 Brakes Bled?
My 96 thunderbird had a rear caliper shot. I changed the caliper, the rotor, and the brake pads then bled all the brakes. The three I didn't touch bled perfectly when someone in the car pressed the brake, I let fluid flow, then tightened the nut. The wheel with all the new parts I get zero fluid out of. I removed the brake line completely and pumped the brakes and still no fluid. It has no pedal and three of the four brakes have been bled. My only guess is there is air in the line but why wouldn't any fluid come out if I continually pump the brake pedal with only that one line open?
View 8 RepliesPassat (B6) :: Loss Of Braking Power - Slight Pulsation In Brake Pedal
Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
View 4 Replies