Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 V6 Engine Knock Under Load
I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
View 12 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Engine Knock On Cold Start
Specs: 2003 Ranger Edge / 3.0 V6 / 5-speed 4WD / 238,000 miles
Yesterday my truck was in the shop for repair. Intake gasket, Transmission fluid change, all heater hoses, thermostat, serp belt and coolant flush. When I picked it up from the shop, which was after closing, I noticed a knocking on start up. From past experience on a different truck, it sounds like a cam that isn't oiling. After a few minutes the knock goes away. I drove for a few miles, turned off the engine and started it back up and no knock this time. This morning I started it, knock was back but went away after a few minutes. Oil was changed about 1500 miles ago. Running pennzoil 5/20 with a K&N filter. Up until yesterday the engine has been completely quiet. Was wonder if something may have clogged the filter or the drain back valve.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 - Leaking Fluid Around The Front Diff Cover
My 2000 Ranger has been leaking fluid around the front Diff cover so I decided to pull the cover and reseal it. It was obvious that this was going to be a tight job but I didn't anticipate running into a bolt that can't be removed because interference from the front cross member.
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Rear Axle - Drive Shaft Not Fixed In Diff Perfectly Straight?
Today I took the bed off of my 99 ranger. I was sitting on the cab looking down at the rear axle noticed the drive shaft was not entering the rear diff perfectly straight. As I looked further into it, I noticed the distance between the rear spring on the passenger side tire, is noticeably different. To visualize it, the wheel, at the bumper side of the axle, has a shorter distance between it and the leafs than the cab side. Not massive, but a few inches, and it's noticeable now that I can stand over it. I'm beginning to be very annoyed by this truck and it's previous owners, whom I take it , scammed my brother quite well with a $5k tag for a truck with so much not right with it. It's about to become my yard art for awhile.
View 8 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1997 XLT 3.0 - Pre-Ignition Spark Knock
I recently replaced the plugs & wires on my '97 3.0L XLT automatic, and now I'm hearing some pre-ignition (spark knock). Only happens under light load, as in climbing a slight grade on the highway. No CEL, no codes on my code reader. Was not happening before I did the work.
The plugs & wires I removed were the factory originals (AWSF32P & PG, 3 of each), truck only has ~85,000KM (~50,000 Miles) on it. Well maintained, & only used occasionally. The only mod from stock are the wheels & tires, I'm running 215/70 R15 instead of the stock 225/70 R14, the difference in the tire circumference is minimal.
The gap on the old plugs was just over .050", no evidence of any fouling or other problems. The new plugs are Autolite XP104 Iridium, which is what the Autolite catalog calls for. Plug gap was checked & set to .044", midway in the range called for by Ford (.042-.046).
I realize that the narrower gap on the new plugs will cause a slight advance in timing, and I have done a computer reset/relearn as per Paw Paw's instructions. I'm stumped.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 1994 - Lifter Knock At Start Up / Throttle Hold Over 3k?
I've got a '94 Ranger with the 4.0L OHV and an Automatic trans. When I start, hot or cold, it has quick lifter knock for only a fraction of a second. This same knock comes back if I hold the throttle over 3K with NO LOAD on the engine. With any load, I cannot make it knock. With no load, though, it becomes very loud, especially with more RPMs. at idle and slightly above, there is a slight tick that can only be heard with the bonnet up, and then it is only slightly noticeable. I think that this tick is unrelated, but I figured I should share that information. For oil, I run Pennzoil high mileage 10W-30, changed 3000 miles religiously. Purolator filter, PL30001. I can understand the startup knock, but I can't see why it seems to produce the same knock at high RPMs under NO load.
View 4 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - Spark Knock / Idle Slightly Higher
03, 2.3 duratec, 163k, new timing chain, plugs (AP104), wires and intake. cleaned MAF, air filter, and ran two cans of sea foam through the intake and its still pinging. its driving me up the wall. truck runs perfect but seems to idle slightly higher and take longer to come down to idle after I got the timing chain and plugs/wires done. I've sprayed starting fluid around on top of the engine looking for vacuum leaks but found nothing. What should I try next?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2010 - Single Knock When Accelerating From A Stop Light
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
Ford - Ranger :: Cloud Of Smoke On Start Up - Knock In Engine After Oil Pan Change
I have a Ford Ranger 4wd, 2000 120k. Ran well, great shape, reliable and quiet running. Oil pan leaked and I got tired of going under and used Devcon in attempts to stop leak..reoccurring issue. So I get new 0il pan. Started it up following morning after driving errands and home from shop and saw a cloud of smoke on start up never seen before, cleared away and didn't think about it again. Drive round trip for about 70 miles and while driving at slow speeds back in town, the oil gauge started pinging back and forth, and the knocking started. By the time I got home I do not dare to drive it anywhere as while the oil gauge does not fluctuate anymore the rapping has increased. What could have started this chain of events? Can I expect the garage to replace the engine? Vehicle is worth 4k replacing engine probably 3K..while a beautiful useful truck body sits in yard is it really worth it? Bad draw on the cards?
View 5 RepliesSaab - 9-5 :: 2001 - Engine Oil Additives Ok?
My mechanic wants to use an engine cleaner to add to oil, then blow it all out!! It's a 2001 Saab 9-5 with 110k miles and is starting to burn its semi-syn at the rate of 1 qt. per 1400 miles.He says there's no discernable leaks.Should I let him add anything? Just keep adding the oil?
View 17 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 3.0 VS 4.0 Engine?
Opinions welcomed...thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Engine 3.0 Or 4.0?
thinking of taking a gamble on an '04 with 248k miles on it.....not sure what engine is in it.
View 11 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Top End Engine Cleaner
Does running a can of top end cleaner through your engine like Seafoam foul your oxygen sensors? should they be removed beforehand?
View 3 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Engine Won't Firing
i have a 1986 ford ranger with a bored out 2.9 v6 that is not getting spark sent to the spark plugs disrtibutor has been changed along with spark plug wires any clue what the problem is
View 1 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1986 - Gas Will Not Keep Engine Running
1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed
So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.
When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........
The problem now? Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.
Has been replaced within the last few months:
Fuel filter regulator,
Inline fuel filter,
Cap and rotor,
Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
Air Control Valve - Removed and cleaned.
Checked all vacuum hoses.
Has not been replaced:
Map Sensor, (was told it's located on Pass. fender wall, but can't find it, according to the manual)
EGR Valve and sensor,
Throttle Position Sensor,
EVP sensor,
Spark plugs, (two years ago)
Plug wires, (two years ago)
Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)
With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Constant Engine Tick?
New motorcraft plugs, wires, and coil packs. I'm running havoline 5w30 with a motorcraft filter now. I didn't notice the tick when I got it only a few months ago, but it could have been there and not as noisy, I'm not really sure.
I've got some parts to put on when I get time. Probably be a month or 2. I have a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, block heater, drive belt, tensioner, and idler.
It's a constant tick. Worse when cold, but still there warm. Sounds like under the valve cover. I'm not afraid to get in there and fix it, just would like to hear some opinions on what it could be for sure. I've read about the lucas and high mileage oil combo maybe reducing the noise, but if its fixable, I'd like to do it when I have it torn down for the timing belt, which is original I'm sure by looking at it. I really don't like abnormal noises from my engine compartment. Bugs the crap out of me.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Was Not Revving Up When Stepped On The Gas
I have a 91 ranger with the 3.0 engine. Recently the engine was not reving up when i stepped on the gas. But, it kept running and i got home. Then one day it just wouldn't start after i just shut it off. I've changed the distributor cap and rotor,fuel pump and filter.I have spark to all 6 plugs and good fuel pressure to the fuel rail. I'm leaning toward the timing. Last night I found the harmonic balancer will just spin freely. Will this stop it from firing?If it is the timing, how do I find tdc and where is the # 1 firing position on the distributor cap(no markings)?
View 14 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - A/C Won't Kick On Until Engine Is Hot
It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: Engine Does Not Start Without Being Primed
Engine doesn't want to start without being primed once started ideals real good but still sometimes Bogs out on acceleration.
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