Ford Excursion :: 2002 - Cruise Control Would Come On Intermittently

2002 Ford Excursion cruise control inoperable. Problem began when cruise would come on intermittently. I would push the on button then set, at which point the green cruise icon light would either come on and the cruise would set or she would flash and not set. Sometimes holding the switch down worked, other times not. Now no matter what I do the cruise will not engage.

I have had the recall done for the cruise control by the dealership.
I have checked the fuse on the recall module, the 2.5 is in good shape and not blown.

I also found this guide to a self test (copied below). I used the test, turning the key on with the off button depressed yields a green speed icon light. Letting go and pressing on yields a green flash as well. But when I move on to pressing resume I get no lights at all, same if I continue through the other switches, no more lights.

Here is the self test guide -

*cruise control self test

Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo.

Release the OFF switch.

Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL. If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch. NOTE: There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective. If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.

Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

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Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2000 XLT - Cruise Control Not Working

My 2000 4.0 XLT Ranger has been without working cruise control for several months now. I've checked what appear to be likely related fuses and they're all good. I *DID* have a recent problem with my brake lights but that's been fixed. (The shop that replaced my rear leaf spring hanger brackets pinched a hot wire between the brackets and the frame which eventually shorted. Wire and fuse were replaced.)

A few years back, Ford had a recall related to the Cruise Controls causing fires. I had the recall service performed on this truck. In a nutshell: The switch to disengage cruise when braking is attached to the master brake cylinder, and a leak in the switches diaphragm allows brake fluid into the switch causing an electrical short, causing the wires to heat up, and in some cases causing a fire. Ford, instead of switching to a different switch design (like maybe a mechanical switch on the pedal?) put a fuseable link in the hot wire from the potentially leaky switch.

Well, the truck now has over 150K miles on the factory brake cylinder/cruise control switch. I'm suspecting that my switch finally leaked, shorted and blew the fuseable link. Would Ford fix it? (They should, considering the lame fix for a lame design flaw.)

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It started with the cruise control turning off every once in a while. Then it would only stay on for 7-8 seconds, then eventually it would turn on, then shut right off. Now it won't even turn on.

When I did the diagnosis sequence (On, Resume, Coast, Set....) it blinked 3 times saying "Bad deactivation switch or circuit". So I replaced the blue switch on the brake pedal and it still doesn't engage.

It's a 4.0 liter with a manual tranny. I've been researching this a lot, and it seems in 2007 they changed up things probably because of the big recall.

I don't see any kind of deactivation switch around the master cylinder. It seems that was in use until 2006 or 2005.

I see a different kind of switch on the clutch pedal, thinking it must also have a deactivation switch. I see a long spring loaded type of switch with about 5-6 wires coming out of it, but I can't find any info on the web about that switch.

All three of my brake lights are working. It seemed to deteriorate rather quickly (Over the course of 3 days) and now it's completely dead.

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So I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.

Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.

What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.

It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.

So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.

The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.

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2003 ford edge 3.0 V6 ... I was driving down interstate today going 70, set my cruise control & the button broke. My accelerator was stuck, when I would hit the brakes it would literally shake the whole truck. What happened & why?

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The cruise control switch on my 2000 Ranger just broke. It looks like you have to remove the airbag to access it. How is that accessed? It looks like there are 2 plugs on the back of the wheel that need to be removed.

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My cruise control has been out for awhile and I have run the diagnostic test several times, earlier this year and now again recently. The cruise control light blinks after I push the ON and RESUME buttons, but no blink for the COAST button. I suspect there is a problem in the wiring, but I wanted to get your thoughts before I replace the switches. 2007 Ranger XLT ....

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I have a 2002 f350 my horn went off in the middle of the night got up and unplugged the horn what is my problem. also, the cruise control won't work when it all happened

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I just bought this truck last week. It has 55k on it, so I'm guessing it sat a lot. It seems to run great, but today on my drive to work it started having an intermittent bogging down when accelerating. It didn't seem to matter if I was accelerating soft or harder, or what rpm I'm at. It also did it when it was cold pulling off of my street and it did it once or twice after 15-20 minutes of driving. It just feels like I let off the gas for a moment, I can watch the tach drop about 500 rpm and then just as quick it picks right back up and is fine for a bit. I don't have any check engine light.

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I had had intermittent issues with the cruise control not working in my excursion. most of the time it was fine though. after a recent 150 mile trip it stopped working half way through. i didnt worry about it too much..got back into town and checked under the hood. i found brake fluid running down the inner fender well! all over everything under the master cylinder. finally tracked it down to the cruise control switch on the master cylinder leaking. I pulled the plug apart and it was full of brake fluid.

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