Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Missing And Rough Idle - Codes P0340 / P0344 / P0345 And P0349?
I recently purchased my first Ford pickup. I bought a 2006 F-150 with the 5.4L 3V engine. I have only driven it for about 300 miles so far and am having problems. The engine has 146,000 miles on it. I have read several posts on here about the cam phasers which I believe that I may have some issues with. The engine will run well when cold, on the road, etc. The engine does have a slight ticking after it warms up (cam phasers?). When I come to a stop after the engine is operating temperature, the engine will start to miss and shudder and all 4 above codes come active and are also pending (8 codes in total).
All 4 codes are logged at the same time. I have replaced both cam position sensors, both sensor ends and terminals for cam position sensors, checked wiring around the rear of engine (does not appear to be rubbed through), all plugs were replaced, and all COP boots are good. Is there anything that can cause these codes that may not be the actual cam position sensors, ie. VTC, COPs, cam phasers? What pins the cam position sensors come on the ECU (so I can ohm the entire wire harness)?
Also, if the engine is missing with the codes active and I rev the engine up it will come back to idle and run great. The engine never dies out, just runs horribly. I have also unplugged each sensor with the engine running which has no effect on the way it runs.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Got Codes P0174 / P0171 / P0345 And P0349?
My truck have 4 codes p0174 and p0171 system too lean bank 1 and bank 2, and p0345, p0349 camshaft position sensor bank 1 and bank 2.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 5.4L - Getting Codes P0340 And P0344 Randomly?
At around 100K miles started to get the dreaded P0340 and P0344 that occurs randomly - engine cold, engine hot, rainy, hot, cold, you get the picture. Only occurs at startup. Shutdown/Clear Code/Restart and all is well for days... otherwise the engine runs fine. Have replaced the CMP sensors, thoroughly cleaned CMP and crankshaft sensor connectors, even replaced the alternator. I would like to tone out the wiring back to the PCM connector pins. I am trying to find a pinout diagram. PCM is 7L3A-12A650-GKF.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Knocking Noise / Running Rough And Stalling - P0340 And P0345
I have a 2006 f150 it was making a knocking noise after the engine oil temp reached 160* and made the noise to 1700rpms. I thought it was the cam phasers so I replaced them. The truck is still making the noise and running rough and stalling but not as bad and not as often. Before it did it all of the time. The truck is timed properly. I had a new cam sensor and tried it but that did not work. I watched vct on the scan tool and both cams are in sycn.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: Codes P0345 And P0349 - Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 2 Circulation Error / Interim
For 2009 and 2010 f150's with the 5.4L engine, this may apply to you.
About a month back I got some odd vibrations at start-up and while driving and the following codes:
P0345 - Camshaft Position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation error
P0349 - Camshaft position Sensor, Bank 2 (drivers side), circulation Interim.
These codes are common in the previous generation truck for various reasons. In my case, I started trying to troubleshoot with the easiest solutions first.
Checked the battery - fully charged.
Checked/played with the alternator connection and related wiring - looked good.
Checked the oil - it was down at the half mark on the dipstick, so toped it off with synthetic oil.
Cleared the codes, and now have been driving for a month, no issues, no codes!
If these codes come up for other folks, try the easiest on the list first, before bringing to the dealer... these codes can be really hard to solve, but sometimes we can get lucky.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Got Codes P0022 And P0345?
So I have an 05 Expedition (I know this is the F-150 forum, but more visibility) that is throwing a P0022 and P0345. I get these point to the cam phasers, so before I throw $450 on a phaser kit and oil pump, I want to make sure its a good fix.
I have done a lot of research on this forum and other where people have replaced their phasers and it doesn't end up fixing the issue. So I just was looking to get some tips before I endup shot gunning parts.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Truck Is Misfiring / Low Idle - Check Engines Codes
My 2004 f150 has always been great to me. all the way till now at 255k miles. My truck is misfiring really bad. Here are the codes I have :
P0506 low idle (because of the misfire)
P0356 ignition coil F (6) primary/ secondary circuit
P0308 Cylinder 8 misfire
P0174 system too lean (Bank 2, right side of engine)
p0316 misfire detected on startup
This problem happened 2 days ago. I reset the codes and they all come back together in 10 minutes. the misfire is very bad. I wonder why coil 6 has a fault code but number 8 has the misfire code.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 5.4 3v - Rough Idle / Stalling And Misfiring
I recently bought a 05 f150 with 5.4 3v and 195k miles needing some work. Ran great, just had a code for timing over retarded. Originally it had a cracked timing cover, so i took it off to replace and found broken guides and bad tensioners on timing. I installed new guides, chains, and tensioners, and cleaned phasers, and put back together only to find it ran terrible and had a phaser rattle. I then went in and installed phaser locks, which took care rattle but not the running issues. I can not figure it out.
ISSUES: My issues almost mirror what is said in this thread here, but this issue was never solved. [URL] ....
My issue is when started cold it starts right up, idles ok, runs ok, although a bit sluggish. Once its warm it stalls at idle, shudders when giving throttle in overdrive, and if you kick it down it will continually backfire, and slowly accelerate... it kicks down but acts like its only getting 1/8 throttle, just kind of hangs at the same rpm and slowly climbs in rpm. Sometimes it wont backfire as much, and sometimes the check engine light flashes. After it stalls at idle and you start it back up it sounds like it shudders/backfires for a split second then starts.
It is throwing many engine codes, but most are from the phaser locks. Throws code for timing over advanced on each bank (phaser locks lock them fully advanced), cam timing codes for each bank, and then a code that doesn't have to do with the timing, P2106. I am going to run some live diagnostics on it today and report back but I am fully at a loss.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Throwing Codes P0012 / P0022 And P0345
I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Replaced Many Parts / Rebuilt Engine But Got Codes P0345 / P0022 Again?
I'm having the well known situation with P0345, P0022
Replaced both phasers, replaced cam sensor, checked timing (properly aligned), assembled back still running rough and rattling, used 10w40 oil,
Complete rebuilt engine, we did head work new seals and springs, valves are straight I had it checked out twice for assurance. New pistons, new rings, new bearings, new oil pump and seals of course. If I disconnect cam sensor Bank 2 it works fine but still runs a little rough.
- Replaced one tensioner due to gasket wear.
- I was told to check on alternator ground (it's missing I know cause it got broken and I haven't replaced that ground that goes into the engine.)
- I also was told change oil to 5w20 and filter (Not FRAM), add some lucas and it should be the fix.
- Also told to disconnect the oil pressure sensor and it would fix the problem but it will throw a code for that.
- I haven't replaced the timing chains I feel they're a little loose but they haven't jumped the teeth, so I guess they're good.
- I saw in one thread to move a teeth on phaser giving me code bank 2 (moved one teeth back and then one teeth forward but it didn't work)
When I first rebuilt the engine I was having the rough iddle then I scanned it and it gave me the cam positioning sensor code P0345, then after I replaced it problem got fixed and code was gone, I was using the truck for 2 days with no issues, then the problem cam back with the two codes P0345 and P0022!
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2002 - Rough Idle Codes / Cylinder 2 And 3 Misfiring
I have an 02 ranger xlt 3.0, it started having a rough idle, codes say cylinder #2&3 misfiring, changed plugs, wires, coil pack, didn't work, still same code, checked injectors on right side, all 3 had ohm reading of 15.8-16.5, the injectors were clicking like they are supposed to, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake ports, didn't change the idle at all,what else can I check or do? with out tearing the engine apart, unless of course I have to, the truck has been very good to me, it's got 205,000 miles on it, I need it to last at least another year...
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Rough Idle With Many Codes
I just received a 06 F150xl with a 5.4 triton and idles rough with the following codes! p0357 p0012 p0340 p0344 p0351 p0352 p0356 p0358 p0357 p0102 p0113 p0353 p0354 p0355 It's amazing the truck even runs and with no light on but it will accelerate. someone mentioned to clear the codes and drive it 50miles or so and read them again.
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle / P0012 - Misfire Codes Associated With Bank 1 And Cylinder 3
5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
TrailBlazer :: Running Rough And SES Light On - Codes P0340 And P0300 Misfire Detected
04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Running Rough And Misfiring Quite Frequently
My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
View 7 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Code P0345 - Low Oil Pressure
I have been having quite a rough time fixing a P0345 code on my 06 F-150 w/5.4 w/85,000. This truck has gone to a Ford dealer every 5K for the oil change/checkup etc.
Long and short - P0345 Code @ approx 83,500 miles, rough idle once the engine was up to temp and it would clear if you bumped the skinny pedal.
I have replaced the following:
--Both Cam Phasers
--Both VCT Solenoids (they both had holes in the screens - see this post [URL] ....
--Passenger side Cam Position sensor (I broke it pulling it out to do phaser swap)
--Spark plugs - SP515's
Issue was still present so then I replaced:
--Complete Timing chain set (Chains,Gear, Guides and Tensioners) - Drivers (left) side tensioner collapsed.
Once all back together and running the code is still there so I finally installed a REAL electric oil pressure gauge. Turns out I only have about 15psi at hot idle and 50psi when driving etc.
I am at wits end, because at this point I would have to guess that the engine is junk... Either a bearing is shot or whatever... Do I take the 3-4 hours to drop the pan to potentially see what is going on? Or just drop some 15W40 in the engine and trade it in?
Lexus LS 2007+ :: Engine Light On / Rough Idle At Start Up / Code P0340
1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
View 15 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2004 V6 Rough Idle - Codes P2104 And P2112
I have a 2004 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC V6.
I was having some rough idle and a P0401 code for Insufficient EGR Flow. In the process of investigating the EGR valve, I had to remove the throttle position sensor to remove the EGR. After re-installing everything, I had a worse rough idle and I again removed the EGR valve; however this time instead of removing the throttle position sensor, I removed the entire throttle body assembly.
After re-installing everything again, I now have very rough idle and no pedal response. I have the following two codes:
P2104- Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Closed
P2112- Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
I did not unplug any harness, and all connections are secure. I did not remove the battery cables while working on it, but I did remove the negative cable for about 45 minutes after getting the P2104/P2112 codes hoping a reset my fix things.
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2004 - Rough Idle - CEL With P0303 And P0316 Codes?
I love my Ranger. I'm quite impressed with the power and durability. I'm ticked at Ford for stopping production.
I have searched my problem and could not quite narrow it down. I have also tried several remedies with no improvement. I need to narrow it down to a specific item.
2004 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4x4, 131,000 miles, runs great above idle.
Problem: rough idle, idles at about 750 rpm's. If i raise the rpm's to 850 and up, smooth as silk.
The truck did this a few years back. Not quite as rough and it went away by itself.
Engine light came on this time with P0303 & P0316 codes. I have replaced: plugs, wires, coil pack. I know that the #3 plug is sparking quite well. the #3 injector is getting signal to spray not sure if it is. I have 4 O2 sensors and I believe I tested them correctly (passed). The passenger side upstream or pre cat sensor has not been tested yet. Had to rent a tool and will do that in morning. I slid a piece of aluminum roof flashing between the crank position sensor and the crank pulley. Not a noticeable difference. While at idle (750 rpm's) I pulled each (#3,2,1,) (one at a time) injector wire plugs off the injectors. No noticeable difference. I pulled the vacuum line off the egg and operated it with a vacuum tool. Seems to be working fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around on vac lines. No engine surge