Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Intermittent No Start Condition And No OBD Codes
2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Misfire - Lack Power - Stalling - O2 Codes?
I am perfectly capable of doing the repairs just short on time. the only shop in town is booked out 2 weeks, i need my truck sooner. 2006 f150 5.4v 3v 168k. I bought it with 150k and it was clean and ford maintained from the original owner. for a while it has been fluttering from time to time during acceleration. last week it started shuttering and missing around 45 trying to accel. no cel. I've read and actually fixed my freinds 08 but replacing cop and plugs. I bought motorcraft plugs and granatelli coils. friday morning it didn't want to start, cranked for a bit then locked up, as if hydrolocked.
I let it sit 5 minutes then cranked again and it fired but hesitating and missing like never before. anything passed 3k rpm it ran good no load. i had to drive it and it doesnt want to shift properly, revving way past normal shift points. smoking alot more than normal. hard to tell being 5 degrees out. finally got some codes. bank 2 sensor 1 stuck rich 4 times lean twice. Saturday i changed the oil plugs. and coils plugs were not original but were worn enough to visually see. all of the passenger plugs were a nice brown color. all of the driver side were jet black of carbon which follows the o2 cel. i reset it with my glorifed code buddy and it took a while if at all to come back. so im thinking not an o2 sensor????
It runs rough and will stall from time to time, I am to the point where i wont drive it. i will be replacing the camshaft sensors and vct solenoids tonight, and that one 2 if i have time. from what I've read phazers will cause a rough idle but once under load at least have some performance. when i accel it the rpms stall out before a shift i cant get anymore power, say wont got over 3200rpm. when chains and guides need to be replaced whats the symptoms??
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Shaking And Sputtering / Throwing CEL Codes
I have an '05 5.4L 3V and I was way to trusting in how it was running. BTW, I change the oil every 3 to 5 and have only driven highway miles, albeit a lot of them...155k! I bought it with 40k on it but was not aware of the plug change issue until I heard about it off-hand. I let the plug change go cuz it was running so well. Bad move.
Anyways, a few weeks ago it began to lose power and I suspected that the PCM was retarding the timing for some reason. Before I could get to the shop, the thing went nuts on me at 75mph. Started shaking and sputtering and throwing cel codes. I shut it down and after 5 minutes re-started. It seemed fine and actually was running a bit better. Took it in and the code was the 0302. #2 cyl misfire.
They also said the compression was very low on that cylinder and slightly low on 1,3 and 7 as well. I had them change the plugs and the #2 COP even though they said I needed a new engine and then I picked it up. Now the engine barely runs at all. It shakes violently, where to go from here. What should I do now? New engine?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Throwing Codes P0012 / P0022 And P0345
I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Stumbling A Lot - Throwing Misfire Codes On 1 / 8 / 4 And 3 Cylinders
Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 GLS 2.4 Liter Won't Start - Throwing Codes P2110 / P2118 And P2119
My 08 2.4l sonata gls won't start. I started it this morning to warm it up while I cleared off all the snow, it was running for about ten minutes. I turned it off and about twenty minute later went to start it and it will not catch. All the electronics are running and the engine turns over but it won't start. I replaced the battery in December, the oil was changed last week as well as the air filter. It has 93k miles on it. What could be the problem? I did go borrow a diagnostic scanner and it is throwing a P2110 P2118 and P2119 code.
View 4 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 1.8t Throwing Codes And Misfire - CEL Came On And Blinks
So recently I took my engine apart to do a valve cover gasket and Ecs tuning 2.0 coil conversion. I noticed a good amount of oil in the plug tubes so I got out my trusty soap dispenser and started pumping out oil. Pulled plugs and cleaned them (wanted to make sure oil was all out b4 getting new) also while I had it apart I wanted to take intake off, ( just to polish it and clean out any carbon inside).. Well I never ended up doing that. I removed the injector connections and realized it was to much work for such little satisfaction. So I plugged the injectors back in.
I got my car all back together and now I'm throwing 6 cel codes!! P0102 (maf) which I'm assuming b.c I took it off for so long, p0201, p0202 ( injector 1 and 2 miss), then some misfire codes p0300 (random) p0301 (cylinder 1) and p0304 (cylinder 4). The car starts runs very rough then cel comes on and blinks. I was thinking maybe the oil getting down to the combustion chamber couldn't be the best for it but it would just burn off. Only other thing I did was take off the thottle body and cleaned it.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Throwing Codes For Misfire / O2 Sensor?
So my girlfriends's 2001 2.0 Golf (engine code AVH, 153k miles) began throwing codes for misfire on cylinder 4 and for the o2 sensor (post-cat) recently. I went ahead and replaced the spark plugs, wireset, and the coil pack. They were way overdue. The CEL went away for like 30 miles, and then came back. Now it's reading misfire on cylinder 3 and the same thing for the o2 sensor. What else it could be? Search is coming up blank, most people replaced the coil pack and the CEL went away.
View 2 RepliesRodeo :: 2000 - Both CATs Replaced Now Car Running Rough And Throwing Misfire Codes
So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
View 8 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Multiple Codes - Random Misfire Detected
I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Codes For Misfire On Cylinders 4 And 5 And Coil D Circuit Malfunction
I do not know the 5.4l 3v as well as my last 360ci dodge. It's a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4, got it cheap, and it's got issues. Got codes for misfire on cylinders 4 and 5 and Coil 'D' circuit malfunction. Obviously it has codes for limited power as well. was wondering how cylinder numbering goes and what coil is 'D'.
View 6 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: MIL Light Started To Flash / OBDII Codes / Misfire
My wife was driving her truck yesterday and said the MIL light started to flash and the truck felt like "it was about to blow up" . So when I got home I busted out the trusty old scanner and this is what I got:
P0305- Cyl 5 misfire'
P0354- Ignition coil D primary/ Secondary circuit malfunction
P0304- Cylinder 4 misfire
The truck is a 2005 5.4 with ~130,000 on it and it runs very well for the most part. I have done the spark plugs before the summer and replaced them with the motorcrasft sp-515s. I am guessing the problem will be with the #4&5 coil packs. is there a way to troubleshoot these?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Misfire Codes / Engine Shuddering Under Acceleration When Cold
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
View 1 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - Multiple Cylinder Misfire Codes
We bought the car used for my youngest daughter and it had a couple of codes in it. 1st was the o2 sensor.. easy fix, grabbed an OEM one and stuck it in. Then there was the Cyl 2/ multiple cyl misfire codes that kept getting thrown.
I've seen a bunch of post about people pretty much doing the same things I started out with and still having a problem.....
1) Swapped around all the coils.. still got a #2 misfire... So, coils are good.
2) Swapped in NGK Platinum plugs with a .032 gap.... still getting misfire.
3) Replaced the crank shaft position sensor...... still misfire
4) Noticed that there was an Ebay injector in the #2 cyl...... when I pulled the plugs, that cyl was running a little lean..... bought an OEM injector to go back in there...... still getting misfire
SO, I tried using a propane torch head and putting out gas around the intake to search for vacuum leak and got no response....... so, for the heck of it, I went old school and grabbed a can of starting fluid and started spraying it on the intake around where it bolts to head... bam... found a vacuum leak on #2 cyl....... ordered an intake gasket off of ebay, spent about 3 hours on it pulling the intake and replacing the gasket,( the bolts had loosened up over time and there were small tears in the gasket allowing it to suck air) .. put the new gasket on, cleared the codes and it's been running perfect ever since.
Check for a vacuum leak where the intake manifold bolts to the head... might save time and money.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle / P0012 - Misfire Codes Associated With Bank 1 And Cylinder 3
5.4 3v. my last few weeks have not made me a fan. Here are the details:
I bought a 2008 F150 XL 5.4 3v with a cam phaser knock. Have done other timing jobs in past with no trouble so I was not too afraid to tackle this one. famous last words...opened the motor (shout out to the passenger side valve cover and its designer here) and found semi damaged roller follower on driver side. Worn cam lobe on the corresponding lobe and a loose chain on passenger side. proceeded to :
Change all timing components: phasers, chains, tensioners crank sprocket, all applicable bolts and BOTH cams as well as all lash adjusters and roller followers. most looked fine in fact all really did with a bit of wear on a few roller followers but only one bad one. engine didn't look to bad pretty clean.
Double and triple checked my timing chains and it was spot on. dark link on spot on crank, two dark links on the L and R dead on. put it back together. oh yes, changed all plugs with motorcraft ones, didn't even break one. did not change vct solenoids because I falsely assumed I could change the later easily if needed. they looked ok. screens intact etc... silly me for not realizing how kind Ford was in 2007 and later to necessitate removal of valve cover. I was reading a previous one on the how tos and assumed later models would be the same since it was the same sensor...
Cranked truck ran great. I mean perfect. sounded perfect. ran like a scalded cat. till it got to hot idle then it started doing its thing. rattle shake till you revved it. ran fine just wouldn't hot idle fine especially in reverse or under slight load. replaced driver side vct since ford only had one and I started on the easy side ordered the other one waiting for it. seemed to improve dramatically meanwhile I am driving this truck to test it. I drove it to work 50 miles each way and it ran great.
After a few trips it popped the P0420 light, seemed to run ok, cleared it watched it wouldn't come back. O2 sensor did seem to imply a bad cat on bank 1 since it seemed sensor two was mimicking sensor one and not staying stead like the other bank. still ran fine,
So I decided to check back pressure on the cat. I pulled sensor one out of bank one (really a joyously tight squeeze in there) hooked up my gauge and got 0 back pressure. revved it and all nothing. hooked sensor back up pulled truck out of shop and it commenced to running like crap. I mean bad. running worse than before I got it. Popping P0012 code continuously, and tons of misfire codes associated with bank 1 ..cyl 3 etc.. I tried swapping coils, pulled coils and checked spark with a tester and firing away looks like tons of good spark.
Now the weird part is : looks like bank one is dead. I can unhook any coil pack and/or injector and it runs the same and sounds like it is missing. if I unhook one off of bank 2 it almost dies or does. so bank 2 seems to be running fine. it will start and run but sounds like it missing sets flashing check engine light and backfires and stalls like crazy. I even second guessed my pressure gauge and unhooked exhaust manifold from pipe and it sounds even prettier when it backfires out of there but no change. I pulled cam sensors and cleaned it again and even tried swapping them since they looked identical but no change so I put them back.
Now I can only surmise that I am out of time somehow? or I have a gremlin perhaps? I like working on cars (usually) but this one is getting old. how do I verify what is wrong. if it is timing related how do I verify that now definitively once my marks moved I really cant figure out how to tell if it is in time? Since it has all new parts and they all ran beautifully till now. could it possibly be the vct solenoid doing all this? I plan on changing it when it comes in but surely it cant cause this many problems.. I unhooked it no change, and it does it at a cold idle and any rpm. really runs worse at idle but bad at any rpm.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 XLT Missing / CEL Codes Ignition Misfire 8 And Rich Fuel
My 07 xlt 4x2 4.6 (49700 miles) started missing a couple of weeks ago. Did it for 2 days, the Check Engine light came on, then it quit missing and ran normal. CE light was still on, so I had the code read and reset light. Got two codes: ignition missfire #8, and rich fuel. I assume the rich fuel was caused by raw gas in the exhaust.
Anyway, the truck ran fine for two or three days then started missing again. Checked #8 by taking the wiring connector off #8 COP - rough idle unchanged. Pulled COP off #8 and #7 and swapped. Rough idle unchanged and confirmed miss was still #8 by pulling COP connector. With #8 connected, disconnected #7 (with COP from 8) idle was significantly worse.
Replaced #8 plug. Same miss. What to check next?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - No Power / Throwing Codes P2196 And P2198
2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 2WD - Misfire And Hard Jerk When Going Uphill - Codes P0300 And P0171
I have a 2005 F-150 5.4L 2WD 90K miles. I started getting a misfire and hard jerk when going uphill. No codes for a few days but misfire got a little worse and more jerking at full throttle acceleration or level throttle up a hill got codes p0300 and p0171. I replaced the fuel filter cleaned MAF and changed plugs Motorcraft plugs (none of them broke during replacement). Miss got worse. Missing at idle and no power 3K rmp to get to 40. Only code pulled was p0171. Replaced upstream O2 sensors and COPs. Will barely idle now. Dies when put in gear. Full throttle barely moves forward a few feet just sputters. Checked vacuum lines cannot find anything. Only code I get is P0171. Fuel injectors next? Or shop?
View 3 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: 2008 - Car Started Jumping And Being Sluggish / Random Misfire Codes
I have a 2008 Accent Hatchback with 130k+ miles. I got a pretty good deal on it from a fellow who maintained pretty good service and had installed an aftermarket air intake (well, he removed the stock one and put a small, roughly 4" diameter, filter that is open to engine compartment) and all looked pretty good.
At the first fueling, I noticed issue - I had to rev motor for about 30-45 seconds to get it to stay started. Figuring it was an evap issue, I replaced purge valve and gas cap (cap was obviously loose). This did not correct the problem. I did not worry about it to much because with that exception, the car drove wonderfully back and forth to work, etc.....until recently.
Car started "jumping" and being sluggish. Codes came back as random misfire. Plugs and wires are only a few months old. I wondered if it had something to do with fuel so I ordered filter and pump (figured i would replace both since I was going to be pulling top off tank anyways) - this is going to be my project for the day.
Here is the kicker though : I noticed in the past day or so that car has been okay on my short commute to work in the morning and back home in evening. When I went to store midday and was parked on HOT pavement, I had issues right away. Car is very temperamental as the temperature increases. My wife also noted that last night while driving about 15 minutes away that the engine wall was hot enough to be uncomfortable to the touch of her bare foot and issues were abundant.
Once I get to speed in 5th gear, I seem to be okay, no issues (yet). It is primarily during acceleration and mostly during low RPM (low for this car anyways which seems to run best at 2500+).