Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Ignition System Keeps Shorting Out / Killing Spark
I have a 77 ford truck with a 351 ,the ignition system keeps shorting out, killing spark. If i replace the starter solenoid, it works for a while, then goes out again. I have replaced 4 solenoids this month. What could be shorting the solenoid out? Had the truck for 8 yrs. now, never had a problem with it till now. It has a mallory dist. it was in when i bought it.
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: After Wiper Motor Replacement Some Electrical System Won't Work?
I just replaced my Wiper motor last week and noticed something strange. For the last year or so when I turn on the key to start the truck, once in a while my radio, gauges, and other electricals such as windows wouldn't work for a bit, anywhere from a couple seconds to maybe as much as a couple minutes. Since my wiper motor was on the fritz, I pulled the fuse and the radio,gauges,ect. wouldn't work until the WTS light went out, then everything worked just fine, even after I started the truck and the glow plugs come back on.Since I replaced the motor everything works as soon as i turn the key. Coincidence? Or could one of the internal relays on the motor being stuck cause that?
View 5 RepliesCaravan/Voyager :: 2003 - Electrical Components Controlled By Ignition Key / Switch Work Intermittently
All the electrical components that are controlled by the ignition key/switch (radio, power windows, wipers, AC/fan) sometimes don't work when I turn the van on. However, when the key is turned back into accessories position, everything works - never a problem then. I had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago and that seemed to work (didn't occur as often) but now it's back to the way it was before. Just about every time I need the wipers (when it rains), they don't work nor do any of the other things I mentioned previously.
View 5 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Ignition And Accessories Work With Key Out
99 F 250LD 240k miles. I think I know the answer but hope I'm wrong. Started noticing the blower fan staying on when left in the panel position, even with key out. This morning I walked by my truck and noticed the radio on. Opened the door and the door chime started beeping. Is this a case of a leaky windshield and water running down the a-pillar and getting the GEM wet? Hope not but I think that's it. I haven't seen any water leaks yet. Could it be a stuck ignition relay? I've never heard of a relay staying open. Could it be a corroded fuse panel. i also heard a clicking coming from the area of the PCM recently but it stopped.
View 7 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: Moving Engine And Ignition System - Wiring Harness For Further Use?
I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
Ford - Ranger :: 1997 - Heat / Gas Gauge Won't Work - Electrical Malfunction
We have a 1997 Ford Ranger, live in Minnesota. The heat doesn't work, the electric windows need to be pushed up the last 4 inches, the radio is stuck on loud, the back window latch is broken off, the dash lights only light up the speedometer to 50 mph, the driver's seat doesn't adjust for reclining, and the gas gauge doesn't work. We tend to drive our cars till they die and have been able to live with the above annoyances. However, in dealing with the lack of a gas gauge the person driving it when the odometer hits 200 miles is suppose to fill it up then reset the odometer. That was me this weekend.
Once the gas nozzle clicked off I gave it one last squirt to top it off and gasoline began flowing out under the car. Not dripping, not trickling, not squirting out back at me. Under the truck. Maybe a pint to quart of gas. After wondering if I was going to blow up that part of the county if I started my truck, I figured God wasn't done with me yet, so I started it and drove until I used up about 3 gallons. My husband thinks it is OK to keep the truck because by overfilling it I triggered a valve that actually supposed to do just what it did….release the extra gas.
Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1997 - No Electrical Power When Turned The Key In Ignition
I have 1997 chevrolet Silverado k1500. When I turned the key the other day, there was no electrical power. No gauges. No lights. I checked the battery and terminals and those are fine. When I turn the key slightly the (P) park illuminates but when i turn the key further it goes out. Then there is a buzzing sound from just to the right of the brake pedal. When I depress the brake pedal, the buzzing ceases but then a relay from under the hood in the relay center buzzes. Then when I turn the lights on, all buzzing ceases. But, the lights are not illuminated. I switched the buzzing relay with the a/c relay but that did nothing. I am wondering if there is a main relay that controls all the electrical power?
View 6 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 1997 - Found Oil In Manifold And In Cold Air Intake System?
I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
Ford - Explorer :: 1997 - High Beams Don't Work - No Power On Wire At The Bulb Socket
I have a 1997 Explorer XLT. The high beam have not worked since I got it and now living in Virginia they are needed to pass inspection. When turned on (pushed forward) lights go out, high beam indicator comes on. When flash to pass (pulled back) lows stay on and indicator comes on. It does not have auto lamps.
What I have done:
Replaced MFS
Verified power from GRY/ORG wire on MFS when turning high beams on.
Verified power across fuse #33 when switch turned on.
Had bulbs tested, Good.
No power on high beam wire at the bulb socket.
The only thing I have not checked is what several people have referred to as a "splice" I think someone referred to it as S111? Where this is physically located or am I going to have to start the chore of tracing the wires?
Rodeo :: 1997 2WD - Dash Warning Lights Lit Up And Electrical System Not Charging
1997 3.2 2WD 299,000 miles original alternator
3 times in the last month when I start up first thing in the morning dash warning lights are lit up and the electrical system is not charging. AC doesn't work and windows operate very slowly. A simple rev of the engine has resolved the problem. However, the belt is very tight (and I mean very) and there is no indication of it slipping.
This morning, a rev didn't solve the problem. I only work a few miles from home and my mechanic is also very close so I just figured to head that direction. About 1/4 mile later charging kicked in and everything worked just fine.
I hate Intermittent electrical problems Where to start.
Dodge - Grandcaravan :: 1997 - Electrical Malfunctions / Wipers Work Only In Spray And Wipe Mode
Problem 1: Headlight switch occasionally needs to be jiggled to get headlights on.
Problem 2: Wipers only work in the "spray and wipe" mode.
My Solution: Removed dash, installed new switches, replaced dash.Result: Now the right headlight does not come on at all. Wipers STILL only work in the "Spray and wipe" mode.
Question: Where do I go from here?
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Flashers Don't Work / High And Low Beams Work
2004. Hazards and brake lights work.
View 6 RepliesFord - Mustang :: 1995 - Electrical And Shifter / Ignition Malfunction
I have a 1995 ford mustang with a 3.8 v6, and have recently discovered an electrical problem. First I thought it was just the headlight switch. We replaced it, but looking at the old one, we found that it had gotten so hot, it melted all the plastic off the wires, and that this caused the switch to burn out. I replaced the old one with a new one but it still gets super hot. I'm afraid to drive my car at night for the reason that my lights might fail me in the dark.
Another problem, I'm unsure if they are associated, but it did appear around the same time I replaced the headlight switch. When my car is running, it is impossible to shift it from the park. The button on the shifter (its an automatic transmission) refuses to give, and the result is that my car can only be shifted into gear by turning the key to turn on the ignition position while pressing in the button on the shifter, and then starting my car and driving off. Another thing that i'm sure is associated with this problem is that the cruise control will not be turned off by the brake. It will disengage the cruise when braking but re-engages after my foot leaves the brake. These last two problems began at the same time.
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 2007 E350 - Tap Into Ignition Circuit?
I have a 2007 e350. I installed a battery isolator and I believe I need to run a wire from the ignition circuit to the exciter post on the isolator. I found the Power Distribution Panel under the hood (drivers side) which has a fuse in slot #7 (60 amp Maxi Fuse) listed as Ignition Switch/Accessory Delay. What is the best way to tap into this?
Also, I have 8 gauge wire which I ran from the isolator to the batteries. I am second guessing this now and wondering if I should go with thicker wire?
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: Ignition Stuck On With Key Out / Engine Kept Running
Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery, engine and aux turned off. Then Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. Then put key in and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in first then connected battery and truck started. Last stop took key out as well as disc batt and engine stayed on this time. repeated steps above several times to get back. Looking for narrowing the problem,possible ignition key cylinder, actuator or possible bad circuit.
View 4 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: 1966 F100 - Ignition Totally Cut Out
Just got a 66 f100. Some one cut out the ignition. It has a toggle switch that doesn't seem to do anything, turned it to on and used a screwdriver to short the solenoid and it did not crank. I think I counted 9 cut wires in the area of the ignition counting 2 for the toggle. My other 61-66 trucks seem to just have five wires? So I can remove an ignition from one of these parts trucks, but might there be a difference since the gauges are unique to 1966 ?
Started to take the ignition out of my 62 f600 but i hate to cut wires but i must since there is no remnant of an ignition in the 66 f100. If I can match the five wires i should be ok. Just putting a battery in i have headlights, tailights and dash lights. Solenoid and cable to starter look horrible so i bought a new cable. I think i have a good solenoid or two? I didn't even get a spark when i shorted the solenoid with a screwdriver....
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1978 E350 - No Ignition Voltage - No Start?
I bought a 1952 F1 that is mounted on a 1978 E350 chassis.( 351W )
It has all the 78 wiring installed. When cranking engine, it will not start, unless you release key to run position. You have to get engine turning over, and then quickly release key to start. Checked back of switch, not losing voltage at ignition post while cranking...
Ford Wiring/Electrical :: 1977 - No Start - Ignition Wire Melted?
My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
View 3 RepliesFord Wiring/Electrical :: Door Locks Attempting To Activate When Turning The Ignition Key?
Having problems with their door locks attempting to activate when turning the ignition key? If so, how can I correct it or make repairs.
View 4 Replies