Prius (2001-03) :: 2 To 4 Attempts In Order To Start Successfully?
2002, 90,000 miles.
Symptoms: 2-4 attempts in order to successfully start. Have to hold in 2-4 seconds for success. Still starts consistently though. CEL lit last week for two days, but gone now. Car is driven only for commuting, 10 minutes city driving, 15 minutes highway, 10 minutes stop and go, each way. Gets 40-45mpg over the course of a tank.
History: Aux battery replaced 2011 at dealer after a bad jumpstart. It may have fried the inverter. Not sure. I assume it was the Panasonic that was installed, but the battery says neither Panasonic nor Toyota anywhere on it. Pic below:
Hm. Upside down. I also attached it. Anyway...
Last year, had occasional Red Triangles on MFD and LED panel. Took it to the local Prius specialists, they said the indicators were definite HV battery cell failures, but $750 just to remove, discharge, recharge, discharge the HV cells to figure out exactly which cells should be replaced, which I think they said cost $200 each to replace. I decided it was not worth it on a car still functional and getting 40-45mpg.
Research on here and elsewhere indicates that the AUX battery is not used for starting so the starting doesn't sound like an AUX battery issue. Is it likely an HV battery issue? Time to go back to the local Prius specialists and have the test done? Are there any other ways to find out what's up?
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Engine Takes Two To Three Attempts To Actually Start - FDCM Symptoms?
Very occasionally my 4.6 doesn't seem to be getting fuel when I crank it. On those occasions the starter cranks the engine fine, but it takes two or three attempts to actually start. 64K on the truck, and the fuel filter was changed about 10K ago, throttle body cleaned at the same time. Does this sound like a FDCM issue?
View 2 RepliesCamry :: 2007 - Car Takes Up To 4 Attempts To Start Normally
My wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
View 14 RepliesCelica :: 1997 ST Takes Several Attempts To Start Up
I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
Sonata NF (2006-10) :: V6 Cranks But Takes A Few Attempts To Start
I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
Prius (2010-12) :: 4 Or 5 Attempts For Full Ignition Before Getting Engine To Start
Been having a problem starting the car (2010 T Spirit - 25k mileage RSH) in the mornings for about 3 weeks. When you power on, the dashboard lights up most options and the power light goes amber with no engine start.
This can take 5 or 6 attempts before getting the engine to start and then half the dashboard like the clock etc will not light up for that journey. Subsequent journeys that day are ok but the issue returns for the first start every day.
Passat (B5) :: Car Takes Many Attempts Before It Starts
I have a friend who owns a 1.8T Passat, and she is having difficulty starting her car. From what i know, her car takes a VERY LONG time, and many attempts before it turns over and finally starts. Currently it take many more tries to get it started. Her battery seems fine, as the car turns over strong, and all electrics work. Also, after her car starts, she has been noticing that it is underpowered, and vibrates hard. It has been over a year since her spark plugs were changed. Correct me if im wrong, but having a turbo powered engine, do the spark plugs wear out faster then naturally aspirated engines. Am i right to assume that the spark plug is the cause for her car not starting, and vibrating hard after it starts.
View 5 RepliesTiguan :: Sunroof Takes A Few Attempts To Close
So it has been quite cold around here the past couple of weeks. I was driving my Tig the other day to grab some food. My buddy wanted to see how far my sunroof opens. It opened no problem. But then when I tried to close the sunroof, it got just about closed and then reversed to open all the way. It took me about 6 times of opening all the way and then trying to close until it finally closed. My thought is maybe a piece of ice got stuck and made the system think something was on the track?
View 5 RepliesLexus LS 2007+ :: LS460(L) Sometimes Takes Three Attempts To Get Started
My LS460 L (2008) is having startup problems. I press the startup button but doesn't always start and sometimes it takes three attempts to get started. I took it to the dealer in Saudi (ALJ) and they changed the battery and did a full check but couldn't figure the problem. The problem is intermittent.
Please see this video [URL] .....
Volvo - 240 :: 1998 - Starting In Wet Weather Often Takes Several Attempts
My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
View 12 RepliesSanta Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: 2010 Takes A While To Start With Ignition Switch
I have a peculiar problem with my 2010 Santa-Fe 3.5L
Every now and again, and more often recently, when I try to start the car with the ignition switch, it cranks well, but doesn't, or takes a while to start. If, after trying to start it with no success, I give it a few seconds, I usually get it going, but not always instantly like it used to.
However, If I try to start it with the remote, it starts instantly, every time. What could be the cause?
Honda - Pilot :: Keys Won't Go In Lock / Ignition Without Multiple Attempts
So I bought a 2005 Honda Pilot which came with 2 keys. The main key has a remote battery (which is dead) and a spare key. Because the battery is dead, we must manually unlock the car door each time we get in. A month ago or so I noticed that the main key was having trouble going in the driver's side door. It would go about half way in and jam. I would try 5-10 times and then eventually it'd go in and turn fine. Sometimes I'd go to the passenger door where it would open with no problem.
We started having the same problem with the key in the ignition, where it would take several times to get the key in the ignition, once in, it would turn fine. At this point, we switched to the passenger key, as we are really tight in the money dept (aren't we all?), and didn't want to pay much money for a slight inconvenience.
Unfortunately we're not having the same trouble with the spare key in the ignition. 5-10 times before it will go in, once in, it starts fine. The main key is still tough on the driver door. The only thing I can think of is it's the keys and the ignition, as it doesn't make sense that it's limited to one or the other since we have problems with both keys..
Civic - Honda :: Won't Start - Intermittent Ignition Failure
I have had a problem compounding for about 6 months. The car will not even try to turn over. One day she works perfect, the next day the starter won't even try to turn over. Recently it has been getting worse, I continued to roll start when it wouldn't start and kept driving... but now it will not even try to start at all.
I thought perhaps it was the starter solenoid failing, but when I took it to advance auto parts they tested it and it was functioning just as it should. I then figured it could be the relay, but I can hear it clicking on. What else could it be? I know that the spark plug wires and distributor are all good because I have personally replaced them in the last 6 months. I found some things on the internet referring to a clutch pedal ignition lock switch. Any good way to test it?
[URL] .....
This would appear to be the switch that I have heard of. Can it cause a complete breach of power from the ignition switch to the starter when failing? I will check to make sure that power is not making it to the starter tomorrow... I'm just not that familiar with the circuit.
Acura - Rl :: 2000 - Won't Start Due To Intermittent Ignition Immobilizer?
my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
View 1 RepliesImpala - Chevrolet :: 2006 - Intermittent No Start / Bad Ignition Switch
I have a 2006 chevy impala LT 3.9 v6. Intermittently it wont start, crank it and it does nothing. All accessories work fine. Had a new starter installed, switched the relay it works on, had the ignition switch changed (twice), had the passlock system replaced, new keys for the ignition. Had the car to the dealer four, times. It doesn't happen all the time so it cant be reproduced at will. I just keep trying to start it and it will eventually start, it can be turning the key from 4 to 40 times. there's no rhyme or reason, some times it doesn't happen for 5 days, then it happens everyday for a week.. according to the dealer when they reproduced it it was the ignition switch. I doubt i got 2 bad ignition switches so i don't believe the error is being reported correctly. According to chevy they have no other reports of this..
View 2 RepliesSaturn - Sl :: 2000 - Intermittent Start Up / Ignition Doesn't Complete Engagement
My Saturn 2000 LS1 has an intermittent start up problem. If the ignition doesn't complete engagement, the engine shuts down. After a 12=15 minute wait, I try to start again and it engages and starts. (I think the computer has to be re-set, thus the delay)
Nothing shows up on code except "security" but no fix.
I noticed using the remote caused this problem more often. So no longer use it. Also, got a new ignition key which worked. We think it has something to do with "security" as the light comes on....intermittently. Is there a replacement part for the "security" system? Checking your site, no one else seems to have had this problem.
Civic :: 1989 Cranks Really Slow / Misfire And Won't Start - Intermittent Ignition Timing
From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
View 2 RepliesDodge - Ram :: 1996 - Intermittent Fuel Pump Malfunction - Have To Turn Ignition Several Times To Start
Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
View 1 RepliesExpedition :: 2000 AWD - Intermittent Bearing Vibration Noise Under Load
2000 Expedition AWD, 4.6l ... 150K on car, 50K on trans, 150k on transfer case and most else.
The problem is, under load, there is a intermittent bearing vibration noise...it sounds like a roller bearing that has too much tolerance so it vibrates in and out under acceleration. You can feel it in the gas pedal and chassis, you can hear it, and it robs a little power when the sound it pronounced. The sound is 10x worst when towing my 6000lb boat. Gear doesn't seem to matter, but it is hard to make it happen in 3rd gear.
Diagnostics so far:
-Can't reproduce sound on rack or out of gear
-Stethoscoped all accessories - good
-added Lucas oil additive to engine oil - no change
-added Duralube high mileage goop to trans - no change/slight change?
-Aamco said it was transfer case, tear down and inspection revealed nothing, they said it was mostly pristine for a car with 150K on it.
-Inspected U-joints - all tight
The duralube in the transmission may have made a slight difference in the frequency of the sound...but it could be my imagination, it wasn't significant enough a change to be determinate.
I think I could isolate the issue with a diagnostic tool that doesn't exist as far as I know...it would be a handheld device with 4 magnetic mic sensors you could stick in various locations and watch the waveform output on the handheld... you would simply move the mic's around until you got the highest amplitude on the readout.
At this point the only thing I can think of:
-Aamco missed something
-Main bearings, cam bearings, or possibly oil pump
-Transmission bearing (Aamco says "NOT")