Nissan - Quest :: 2002 - Starts And Idles Fine But When Give It Gas Has No Power And Misfires
I have a 2002 Nissan Quest. It starts fine, idles great. But, when I try to accelerate, the car bogs, hesitates, misfires and I get p0300 random misfire, p0325 knock sensor. I get no dtc when it is just idling. The fuel pressure is fine, regulator works good, the cam sensor is clean, the coil tests good, the compression is good, as are the wires, cap and rotor.
View 2 RepliesSubaru - Outback :: Vehicle Bogs Or Loss Of Power When Stepping On Throttle But Idles Fine
1999 Outback 2.5, idles fine but bogs or loss of power when stepping on throttle. Can "feather" or tease to get going and will hold rpm once it gets there...
View 5 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 - No Power / Cannot Give Throttle Or Bogs Real Bad
I have an 03 Ranger 4.0 4x4 5 speed. It has no power, can't give throttle or it bogs real bad. Baro shows 18in vac with KOEO. When running it has 15in vac. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, and fuel filter.
View 4 Replies3 Series :: 328i Inline 6 - Starts Fine But Stumble Or Stutter When Give Car Gas To Go
328i, inline 6, starts fine. drive 100 yards to stop sign, give the car gas to go, and it seems to stumble or stutter. gas has to be pressed heavily to get it to smooth out. seems to get better as the engine warms up. no code or engine light comes up. thought the engine was just cold natured, wife says it does it with her even when warm, I couldn't duplicate when warm. Can dealer diagnosis with no code?
View 1 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Hesitation When Give It Throttle
I bought the 2005 F250 6.0 Turbo Diesel with 67,000 miles on it last March. It has given me gave me absolutely no problems until now. In the last 2 weeks I have had it plugged in when it was below 32 degrees outside. Otherwise, I just remote started it every morning and let it run for 20 minutes before I left. In the last 2 weeks, I have noticed the same problem whether it is morning, afternoon, or evening and it happens at different times. I will be at a standstill at a stop light, stop sign, or parked in my driveway when this occurs. Sometimes, and like I said, "sometimes", it will hesitate when I give it throttle. It will quickly respond after maybe a second, but the hesitation is still there. It only does this on occasion!
I work for a Lucas Oil distributor, so in the winter I ran the "extreme diesel conditioner" through it with a tank of diesel about every other week. I also used the fuel-injector cleaner at every fill up. On "ONE" occasion, and like I said, "ONE" occasion, when it hesitated at a stoplight, I looked in the rear view mirror, and noticed a short burst of white smoke, and then it took off. It has not done that since. I took the EGR off and cleaned it and it seemed okay until 2 days later, then the same hesitation came back, but like I said, at times!
I replaced the air filter and since then I have done nothing. I am now being told to check the coolant level in the resevoir. When I un-screwed the cap the cap, there was pressure in there and the fluid was about 1/4 inch low from the line. I was also told to check the filter on top of the block, but I have not gotten that far. Ford says it is the EGR cooler system! I have "NO" check engine lights!
Ford Ranger / B-Series :: 2003 4.0L Idles Fine But Stalls When Given Gas
I'm having a bit of trouble with my fathers '03 Ranger Edge 4.0L. It has about 100k miles on it, and we keep it very well maintained. This is the first major problem we've had with it.
When the problem first occured, it had been driven about 30 miles on the highway and about 5 miles after getting off the highway, he pulled up to an intersection and stopped. As he started accelerating again, it all of a sudden started sputtering, surging (almost exactly as if it were running out of gas), and then stalled. It continues to exhibit this behavior. It will start and idle fine, but struggle and then stall when given any amount of throttle. It's also an automatic transmission if that makes any difference.
Fast forward to this past week after we had it towed home. We have checked the fuel pressure, and its dead on at about 64psi. We changed the fuel filter, changed the PCV valve, changed the upstream O2 sensor, put in a new air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and cleaned the intake of the throttle body. We're now at a loss as to what could be causing the problem. The CEL is not on, and there are no codes being shown when we plugged it in. We also thought it may have been bad gas, so we drained the tank and put fresh gas in from our preferred station. The plugs and wires are also fairly new, only about 4k miles on them.
Are we missing anything here? What else we could try? The absolute last resort is taking it to a shop, we're going through a rough patch with finances.
Phaeton :: Low Pitched Hollow Noise When Give Throttle / Acceleration
I have just purchased a 2004 v 8 phaeton with only 12k miles. it drive great except that when I give throttle /acceleration there is a noise (low pitched- hollow). I do not know if this is a normal noise or something which i need to worry about and always the engine coolant temperature gauge is at 200 (which is in the normal range- not sure because the temperature outside is high 102f). it drives great and all functions are fine. Do I need to change something or take it to dealer. the local dealer recently changed oil .
View 11 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Rhythmic Humming Noise If Give Slight Throttle At Around 50 Mph
09 i4 AUTO 47K miles ... When the car is running at around 50mph and if I give it very slight throttle (enough only to keep speed constant), I would hear this rhythmic humming noise. The hum rhythm has a frequency of about 1/2 second each. It is very muffled, almost like exhaust noise or tire noise. However, if I downshift to 4th gear, keep the same speed, and apply the throttle in the same way, the noise doesn't occur.
View 13 RepliesFord - Escort :: 1999 - Rough Start / Couple Of Hiccups But Runs And Idles Fine
I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Idles Very Rough - High Rpms Fine - Reason?
So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idles Fine With Occasional Surge / Sputters In All Gears Like A Misfire
I have a 01 f-150, 4.6L, with 160k miles on it. Symptoms: It idles fine with an occasional surge. It sputters in all gears like a misfire (all plugs and COPS replaced 2 months ago). Sometimes it stalls out going down highway or as I turn in my driveway. It also seems like its slipping a little without the "hard jerking into gear". Occasionally the rpm meter will peg low and then return to normal.
The only code that I received was P1451. I changed the canister vent solenoid but the symptoms remain. I've checked voltage on the TPS (the variable voltage checked out but I didn't get the 5V ref. voltage). I've cleaned the MAF sensor. I've also changed the fuel filter. I've resistance checked the connector to the PCM and found several pins that are at ground. I'm not sure what to do next.
Impala - Chevrolet :: 1965 - Fuel Pumps Only Leaks When Give It Full Throttle And Bring Car Up Well Over 65 Mph
I have a 1965 Chevrolet with the original 396 engine. When I purchased the car, I noticed the fuel pump was wet with fuel at the weep holes. I replaced the pump with a new one. This pump also leaked at the weep holes. I thought dirt may have been in the fuel tank and the check valves were stuck causing the leak. I installed a glass inline fuel filter before the fuel pump and installed another new pump. There is no dirt in the filter. This pump also is leaking from the weep holes. The pump only leaks when I give it full throttle and bring the car up well over 65 mph. I would like to retain the stock type of fuel pump. I'm wondering if the pump push rod is a replacement at some time and too long.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Idles Fine But Sputters Out As Soon Put It In Gear After Hitting Large Water Puddle
I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
View 4 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2007 - Starts Good Idles Fine Jumps And Shakes Over 800 RPMs
2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 Idles Fine But Runs Rough After Warms Up A Little
2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
LS / MKZ :: 2004 Idles Fine But No Power Or Acceleration
I have a 04 ls that has been with a mechanic who gives up. The car idles fine but has no power or acceleration all COP's have been changed. Also the computer is not throwing any codes. Mechanic says that cylinder 3,2,1 have sever mis fire and are pretty much dead but dose not know why.
View 3 RepliesFord Fuel System :: Idles But Dies When Throttle Applied?
I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
99 Jimmy Idles Fine But When In Load It Starts To Sputter A Bit
I have a 99 jimmy replaced rotary button, cap, plugs, wires. The truck doesn't seem to run right. It idles fine but when in load it starts to sputter a bit. Going down the road between 2000 and 2500 rpms the tach jumps a bit. Now if I put it to the floor the truck runs out fine.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Corolla :: 2002 Idles Fine But Bog Down On Acceleration
Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
View 3 Replies