Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Keyless Entry Fail And Tire Pressure Sensor Fault
Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 - Keyless Entry Code
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View 8 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F350 - How To Locate Keyless Entry Code Sticker
I have looked at many of the other treads and I can not find the answer. How do I locate the keyless entry code sticker in my 2008 F350? I just bought the truck used, I do not have the card that is delivered with the truck and I don't want to pay the Stealership to hook it up to there computer. I am looking for the RAP or the computer module as it is called in the owner's guide.
It is not behind the glove box, there is no longer a fuse access panel under the dash like the earlier SD's, the drink holder under the upfitter switches does not "pop out." Before I start with any tools, I am looking for input.
Ford - Explorer :: 2006 XLT V6 - Code For Keyless Entry?
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View 7 RepliesFord - Explorer :: 2003 - Keyless Entry Lost Code
I have a 2003 Explorer with the Factory Keyless Entry on the driver's door. It recently quit working with either my code or the factory code. I have cleared my code, and the only response is that the keypad will light up, and I can lock all doors with the pad. It refuses to take a code to unlock. Other than the dealer route (and a possible new GEM)? The wireless remotes continue to work well.
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I just got a 2000 ford excursion on April 1st and love it. Where to find the code for the drivers door keypad? I've been under the dash on the drivers side, behind the radio and everywhere else people on google said to look and still can't find it. I have some time, I have to get the electronic locks ...
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 (2009-2014) :: Driver Side Door Keyless Entry Code Retrieval
I just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
View 9 RepliesFord Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Lost Keyless Entry Code?
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View 10 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 - Keyless Entry Master Code Location
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View 8 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Keyless Entry - Anti Theft Device That Blinks On The Top Of Dash
I just got an 08 F-150. No key fob and no power locks but it does have what appears to be an anti-theft device that blinks on the top of the dash. I would like to have keyless entry. What steps should I take?
View 6 RepliesLincoln - Towncar :: 2004 - Factory Set Master Code For Keyless Entry?
I just bought a 2004 Lincoln Town Car . I am trying to find the factory set master code for the keyless entry. Is there a website that I can enter the vin number and obtain the master code?
View 6 RepliesChevrolet - HHR :: 2008 - Keyless Entry System Quit Working
I have a 2008 Chevy HHR. On Monday both the key fobs for the keyless entry system quit working. I took both fobs to my local auto parts place where they had a tester and both seemed to work ok. What inside the car receives the signal from the remotes and activates the locking mechanism. All other electronics within the car is working. On Monday we had to have the car jump started when someone left the key in the ignition on Acc setting. Besides testing the fobs I changed the fuse for the Body Control Module (BCM).
View 1 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Won't Start - No Keyless Entry - Electrical Malfunctioning
I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
Pontiac - Grandam :: 2008 - Auto Start And Keyless Entry Door Lock Doesn't Work
It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - O/D Light Come On - Code P0741
I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 3.0l Limited - Airbag Code 36
What airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 V6 - Low FTP Signal Below 22v - Code P0452
I'm getting a p0452 fault on my 2002 Escape 3.0 V6 2WD. From what I've read, that seems to indicate low FTP signal below .22v. As I understand it, the FTP sensor has 5 v applied, and the output to the ECU goes down as tank static pressure increases. Conversely, I think the voltage back to the ECU goes up as tank static pressure decreases (for the vacuum leak test measurement).
What the approximate voltage is at atmosphere (engine not running, vent valve open, etc)?
I'm guessing the "less than .22v minimum" signal back to the ECU might look more like either the signal wire shorted to the frame somewhere or the signal wire open (maybe corrosion in the connector)....
Also, where the FTP sensor is located on the Escape and how to access it?