Ford Bronco :: 1988 - Motor Keeps Turning Over Even When Turn The Key Off
I have a 1988 full size Ford Bronco that when I start it the motor keeps turning over even when I turn the key off. I installed a new solenoid thinking that would do the trick and it worked correctly the first time, but the second time it kept turning over until I unhooked the battery. What is the problem? Is it the ignition key?
View 12 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: 1988 Bronco II - Steering Pulls After Hard Left / Sight Pop?
I've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.
The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Slow Reaction Fuel Gauge / Whirring Noise When Shutting Off The Car And Turning It Back On
My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
Toyota - Avalon :: 2001 - Stalls When Turning On / Shutting Off
I have toyota avalon 2001 xls. 3 years ago I had problem with fuel injector and mechanic change it, since than I had problem with stalling car on and off. When ever it is hot or cold or sometime pulling out from drive way. It starts good, just doesn't keep idling. And as I take of foot from gas it stalls. In order to get going I have to use both foot tachnic. One on gas one on brake, for stopping I use brake and keep pressing gas padle, so it doesn't stall. After 2-3 minutes it works fine until next time car sets somewhere for few hours.I did two three times fuel system flush. Change all spark plugs.
View 18 RepliesMazda - Protege :: Shutting Off Intermittently / Won't Start / No Click Or Turning Over
It's a 2002 Mazda Protege... The car shut off once while running in the driveway. Completely: engine, radio, everything. I took the key out and put it back in a couple of times and got nothing, no click, no turning over. Did it one more time, and it started up as if nothing was wrong.
Then again the next morning. Car won't start. I notice all the electronics are working while the key is in the accessories position. They shut off as soon as the key is in On, and nothing when turning to start. Took the key out, waited a minute or so, then tried again and everything worked as if nothing was wrong. I'm guessing this might be the ignition switch?
Toyota :: 1988 Pickup Starting Intermittently / Only Clicks When Turning Key
I have a 1988 Toyota (4 cylinder) Pickup truck, with a very intermittent starting problem, that is driving me crazy. It has had the starting problem for over a year now. Normally is starts easily, within one second with the starter motor, no gas needed, and it starts smoothly.
When it has the problem, I turn key, and I only hear a click, and the dash lights are lit, but no starter motor sound.
Early on I would call for a tow truck, but it usually started when they arrived.
I got angry one time and turned the on and off rapidly, nothing. Meditated for about 10min to calm down. Nope, still angry, so turned the key rapidly again, and the starter motor engaged, but the engine didn't start.
So I did that again and gave it some gas, then a lot of gas. The engine was running very rough, like all cylinders were not firing, then it spews out a huge cloud of blue smoke, and the engine evens out. That's my usual pattern now: turn the key like crazy wait a few minutes or even an hour, and keep trying.
It is usually fine for 2 to 7 days with no problems. But a couple of times it has had the problem twice in the same day. The problem seems to happen most when the engine is cold, or after a short trip. A few times, it has had the problem even after a long trip, when the engine was still hot.
What has been replaced in the last year? In this order: starter motor, battery, hot lead to fuse box, battery terminal clamps and wires, fuel pump, mass air flow (don't know what that is), catalytic converter, and master relay. (OK the master relay probably isn't related because rain water leaked in and dripped on the fuse box in the cab.) (Also it has 133,080 miles, and a rebuilt engine put in 4 years ago.)
After the mass air flow and catalytic converter change, the truck has started with no problems for 3 months. Now the problem is back! Same symptoms.
When they last worked on the truck they did a tune-up and they said the starting problem could have been caused by the starter motor not being lined up properly so it would "jam". That would explain why the starter motor wouldn't go, but it doesn't explain the miss-firing when it does finally start going.
I also notice that after they do some work on the truck, it starts fine for about 2 weeks with no problem. So maybe something is getting wiggled into a happy position when they work on it?
If this is an "electrical" problem, what can be done to find this very intermittent problem? Also, just before the the problem started happening again, I noticed there would sometimes be about a 1/2 sec to 1 sec delay from when I turned the key, to when the starter motor would go.
Attached is an audio file of what it sounds like.
1) starting normal,
2) turning key and only clicks,
3) the rough start after many tries.
Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Loud Beep / Alarm After Turning Off Car And Shutting Door
I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata Limited for one full year now and this is the first problem I've encountered, and its a strange one.
After parking and shutting off the vehicle (with the push button since I have the smart fob) if I exit the vehicle and shut the door the car will produce a loud BEEP for several seconds. If I look through the window, the screen on the instrument cluster will very briefly say "key not in vehicle" as if I had left the engine running, but actually the engine is off. The message goes away after a second or two, but the beep continues for a few more seconds.
After the beep stops, I'm able to lock the doors normally by pushing the button on the door handle or using the remote. It seems to happen about every other time I park/get out of the car, but it is random. The only pattern I've found is it always happens if I am in a rush. If I turn off the car, open and close the door quickly, it almost always beeps at me. But if I turn off the car, sit inside for a few extra seconds and THEN get out, it seems to be fine. What could be causing this?
Ford - Bronco :: 1990 - Fixing Code 18
I have been getting a code 18 which is a loss of tach signal. I have checked the distributor and the module and they are both good. Where do I start next?
View 2 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1994 - Has No Spark - ECC / PCM Mode?
So three weeks ago, yes 3 weeks, my loathed Bronco decided not to start. It has been sitting at my office parking lot since then. Every day at lunch and after work I spend some quality time with it, attempting to coax it back to life. Here is what I've done so far...Installed a new ignition coil (gets 12+ volts with key in 'run,' and ±10.5 v. when cranking), a new distributor, (with PIP) cap & rotor, new remote mounted ignition control module. All voltages and resistances throughout the ignition system are good according to the Hayes repair manual but there is no spark being sent to the distributor. I've also done an ECC self test and got no response at all. Does this mean the ECC/PCM is bad? My butt is in so much pain with me having to ride a bicycle everywhere. (Riding in the rain while carrying an umbrella is no fun!).If I don't figure this out soon I suppose I'll give the Vehicle Donation Program a call.
View 9 RepliesFord - Bronco - Transmissions :: Shifting Drive Selector Is Off By One
The drive selector on my 2000 Ford Explorer Automatic 4.0L will not allow selection of low gear. The selections are shifted to the right so the last one, low gear will not select. When in park, P, it shows R. When in drive, D, it shows as 2 and when in 2 it shows as 1. Then it will not allow to shift in to 1.The settings are off by 1 knotch. what's up with that? It runs fine but cant get to low.
View 5 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1996 - High Idle While Coasting
I bought a 96 Bronco 5 speed manual last year in pretty good shape.Everything works well, but the idle speed at coasting is hovering around 1500rpm until the vehicle slow down to 30mph at which point the rpm drop to about 700 (where it should be).It only happens while coasting.When truck is parked, the idle is fine and steady; I revved it up to 3000rpm for a while to see if I could replicate the behavior, but no, as soon as I release the accelerator, the rpm's drop nicely to 700.While driving though, if I switch to neutral, the rpm will go up for a second, and than sloooowly drop to around 1500 and stay there until I slow down to 30mph. Spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires, TPS, ICM, and MAF are new. Could it be ECM?
View 6 RepliesFord Ranger / B-Series :: Bronco II A/C Cuts Off While Driving
The panel goes off and the fan quits blowing. Sometimes it works, cools great, then just cuts off...
1989 Bronco II 2.9 4x4 auto 164k miles... I have been on TRS, BroncoII Corral, and even FSB searching.
This is the first attempt at reaching out because i have found that here at FTE the folks that chime in know their stuff, or know where i can find out for myself.
Ford Aerostar :: Axle Swap - 66-77 Bronco 9 Will Work?
I was thinking the other day, wonder if a 66-77 bronco 9" axle would work, width wise, on an Aero? Obviously, you'd have to grind off all the mounting brackets and add the Aero ones. Mostly just building the "ultimate Aero" in my mind,
View 5 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1996 - Squeaking Sound In The Rear, Under Acceleration
I've had a vibration since I bought this Bronco 7 yrs ago. I have replaced everything underneath from front to rear. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, U joints, shackles, etc. As I replaced things, the vibration got better. Or at least wasn't as violent. Now, the vibration is becoming LOUDER. It only happens during acceleration. I can get up to 65-70, let off the gas, and all I hear is the beautiful sound of the tires. If I get back in the throttle, the sound of the rumbling vibration drowns out the stereo. Also, I have recently noticed a squeaking sound in the rear, under acceleration.
View 5 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1989 - Shudder And Power Loss For A Second Or Two About 500 RPMs
When my 1989 Bronco II has about a quarter tank of gas left, it begins to "shudder" and lose about 500 rpms while I've got my foot on the gas. It will shudder and lose power for a second or two, then run fine for a minute or so, then do the shuddering stuff again. It'll do this all the way to the gas station. But with the tank full (or even half full) the shuddering stuff is gone as I drive out the gas station.
View 1 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1979 - Overheats / Temp Gauge Will Climb
Got my 1979 Ford Bronco (351M engine) from my father. He had it in Colorado, mostly in a garage. Had 82,000 miles when I got it and has 67,000 miles now. Runs fine when the outside temperature is less than 80F. Above 80F, the will get hotter and hotter and the temp. gauge will climb. When the temp. gauge is 2/3 of the wat between Cool and Hot it will start to buck and cut out. Eventually the engine will stop. Then I have to wait for it to cool down to repeat the cycle. I have replaced all hoses, radiator, thermostat (3 times), radiator cap, carb. I have installed SS louvers in the hood. Heck, I have even "burbed" it (see Internet).
View 14 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1993 - Strange Ticking Noise And Idle Speed Changes
My 1993 5.0 liter bronco is making a strange ticking noise. when it's idling, and it ticks, the idle drops. then it will tick again and the idle will raise up. usually between the 600 to 1000 rpm range. it just started doing this and never did before.
View 8 RepliesFord - Bronco :: 1993 - Idle Starts To Fluctuate After 5 To 10 Minutes When Warmed Up
Have a 93 Bronco, 5.0. replaced battery, IAV and had a complete tune-up. Now starts great, runs fine until it gets warm, than in about 5 - 10 minutes the idle starts to fluctuate. A little at first but eventually between 1000 to 300 rpm and will stall if you don't give it some gas. Turn it off, restart, starts fine and runs OK again for a while.
View 2 RepliesFord - Bronco :: Start Up And Run Fine For A While Then Engine Gets Really Rough Starts Back Firing And Shuts Off
I Have a 93 bronco with a5.8 the truck will start up and run fine for a while and then the engine gets really ruff starts back firing and shuts off it only starts with starting fluid or after it sits for about 30 mins.
View 7 Replies